Joys of the duty-free (a tale in instalments)
One of the perks of air travel has always been perusing the duty-free aisles.
The invention of duty-free goes back a long way, to 1947 actually. Shops thrived on the policy, which is now attacked by the recent terror-hysteria that has hit the US and UK like a ton of bricks. Duty free shops report loss of sales over the new restrictions applicable to passengers to the aforementioned countries. A sad development really.
The authenticity of the sources responsible for the hysteria epidemic might not be so easily or conclusively traceable; however, since Perfume Shrine is not a political venue, we might as well concentrate on perfume only.
My recent trip to Germany and Austria was relaxed and no such restrictions applied, although I was wary of carrying too much perfume with me. Just to be on the safe side, especially in light of the infuriating rumours that confiscated perfume is then re-sold by airport/customs employees (which would be soooo humiliating to airports if true), I opted for small atomizers of things I could easily get again or had lots of back home. Just as a precaution, you comprehend.
Nevertheless, I wonder if security officials have thought about potential corrupt sales assistants at duty free shops; what if they are in alliance with terrorists to fill a bottle with something suspicious and then wrap it up again like a valid cellophane-ed gift? I guess that idea slipped their minds? You see what I’m getting at, surely…..
Anyway, on my flight there were lots of Arabs, men and women alike, and I felt completely safe. They were regular people, just as irritated as I was of terrorist threats. As to the personnel, no one even remotely hinted at restricted materials apart from the usual ones (which are posted on placards at check-in point as usual) and security was standard.
The waiting hour before my flight we spent in the Frankfurt airport duty free. It is nowhere as big as the Heathrow or Amsterdam one, but it does present its gems.
I was happy to witness a phenomenon I was not aware of previously: they do indulge in the new niches, some of which are not your average customer choices. I noticed aisles featuring Etro, Creed and the whole Serge Lutens export line side by side with the more standard Guerlain and Esteé Lauder offerings. Isn’t it great to be able to sniff those covetable things in the glamorous guise of an air-traveler, tote in hand, silk scarf on one’s hair, sunglasses perched up on head? I was chaneling my inner Grace Kelly- meets-Eleni Glykatzi-Arveler.
The sales assistant was polite and pleasant to look at (for a change) and as soon as she understood I am a bit more than mildly interested in perfume she gently nudged me onto Serge Lutens. Row upon row the lovely oblong bottles of the export line were perched onto glass shelves, with little cards bearing individual names and notes. The presentation was lovely. Set aside a little were the more recent ones (OK, in duty-free shop terms, that last bit): Daim Blond, Miel de bois, Cedre and Gris Clair. Happily I wouldn’t be lured in by any of those since I have sampled them before and I can get them easily at home, no sweat. However the sight of them in the duty-free warmed my heart despite myself. I quenched an inner smile at the surprise some of them will surely elicit from casual unsuspecting customers…..
Etro was standing on a mid-height shelf, flanked by Gucci and Laura Biagotti. I am not sure what that might hint at semantically, but I choose to believe it might be something good. They even had a little booklet in plasticized cardboard with info on notes and possible combinations, one of which was Gomma and Ambra. Messe de Minuit had its won fair share of layering suggestions and I think that would be terribly interesting. The layering thing is not unheard of in the Etro brand, it seems….
The bottles and the presentation were so cool and elegant, I would be tempted to buy something if only I did not have the option to buy it at home as well just as easily.
It’s important to note that I did not notice any particular bargain price about those lines in general, which is telling.
I did not see the new Etro fragrance either, of which I did notice an announcing display in an Apotheke in Salzburg on my trip, more of which on a following post because it deserves a separate entry.
Creed was next on my greedy perfume-radar and I would expect a whole shelf apart devoted to the luxe, heavy 100ml bottles, but no. They went low-key and shelved them the same as everyone else. Under Calvin Klein even! (I know it’s an alphabetical thing, I just found it amusing for snob-driven Creed believers, personally I have nothing against Calvin Klein) The bottles did present a challenge as there were so many of them, sadly none of the exclusive line of gigantic proportions that we perfume lovers all covet. I would have gone out of my way for a bottle of Angelique Encens and break down on the spot and buy one, jeopardizing my credit card in the process with the exorbitant charge to follow. Lucky for me then there were none.( Hurray for decants!)
I spritzed on some Silver Mountain Water to remind myself of its fresh aspect that combines earthy dust and aqueous freshness. Really pleasant, really easy. Created in 1995 -fairly recently for Creed no doubt, since they claim royal patronage since 1760- it is one of their successes. Originally launched as a masculine, it has a quality that manages to smell effortlessly unisex. The opening of dark gooseberry is never too sweet, it is in fact a slightly bitter perfume to its credit, seguing to notes of green tea, which I understand was considered very "push-the-envelope" in 1995 (well, not any more, with the plethora of tea scents on the market). The overall impression is of a dune by the coast at evening and not of mountains, like Olivier Creed presumambly got inspired by, but maybe that is just my impression. Whatever it is, Silver Mountain Water is very fitting for cooling down in the warm days of summer and elegantly at that.
Out of the ones there were there and were new to me I was pleasantly surprised by Bois du Portugal, which I had never tested before and wanted to for a long time.
Technically a men’s scent, it manages to smell enticing on a woman too. Not to mention that my SO commented on how nice it smelled on my skin and on the blotter! Don't we love those moments.
Created in 1806 for Napoleon I it has the air of a winner, of an enlightened monarch, whatever happened to Napoleon later on. Creed likes to connect it with Immanuel Kant's Sapere Aude! cry, which means of course "Use your own reason" , a notion not far off the one exposed in the beginning of this article...
An affair of wood and of discreet citrusy spice on the opening, Bois du Portugal squashes lavender in there in a way that never lets it be shrill or medicinal, rather lullabies any harshness into the warm embrace of cedar and sandal. The spicy note is supposed to be coriander, yet it is not as prominent as in Declaration by Cartier for example. Married with the citrusy touch of classic bergamot and juicy mandarin it smells succulent. Soon to be veiled in a light smokey cloud that recalls burning incense mixed with wood in a luxurious house. The whole is rounded with the grassy feel of vetiver that accounts for an elegance worthy of a 50’s era crooner. Fitting if you consider the fact that it was Sinatra's choice.
It made an impression I am very willing to further explore.
To be continued.....
Pic comes from Gridskipper.
That ‘Silver Mountain Water’ fragrance sounds divine! As for Serge, ah dear Serge…I still dream of acquiring Un Lys.
Snarkattack - 06 10 06
I think it’s an easy to like scent for those who do not want to smell sweet in hot weather. One of their likeable ones.
You know, G, I could arrange something for Un Lys if you haven’t found any till now, if you want to order.
perfumshrine - 06 10 06
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