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Repossessed?

There are some deeply seated feelings and memories in all of us and smell has an uncanny way of unlocking them. The recent launch of Givenchy’s Ange ou Démon (angel or demon) has been such a case.
Promising a dichotomy that was much anticipated –nay… longed for- in an era that overindulges its gluttony streak that runs through the ever-dieting masses, everyone was expecting the duality of a light/dark scent.
The advertorial in the LVMH on-line mag enticed us with this: “The new feminine fragrance […] is an invitation to succumb to that most powerful charm, an enigmatic scent created from shadow and light.
With elegance, inspiration, playful spirit and exceptional quality, Ange ou Démon is a concentrate of Givenchy’s values. ... (more)

Fragrant news- a new Jo Malone: Blue agave and cacao

October will be the month of the official launch of Jo Malone's newest endeavor. The London-based firm of skincare and cologne fame has been bought by the Lauder group and Jo Malone herself resigned on February 2006, however the continuation of the line is guaranteed. The newest offering is named Blue Agave & Cacao and is appearing at Saks stores in the US as we speak. The UK boutiques of Jo Malone also stock it, per my info.

The name, in classic Malone tradition, relies on the two (three tops! in Lime,basil and mandarin's case) anchoring notes of the formula. In this case blue agave and cacao.

Agave is an indigenous Mexican plant (although now you can see it all over the world), a member of the Agavacae family ... (more)

Scent of a man: the autumn list

Men constantly ask what they should wear perfume-wise to attract the opposite sex.
If one needs to ask, then one is on the wrong track altogether and should just drop the issue, crossing his fingers that his wit is on a par with the female in question and praying his charm is evident regardless. But for our purposes, let’s see what I’d like to smell on a man in the cooler autumn months. Not just any man, though…Perfume is all very well and dandy, but it’s not what cuts it in the end.
There are some things I am keeping from mentioning just yet, because they are for even colder weather. For now, these are for your delectation, discerning males.


Black by Bvlgari
Weird (well,not so much…) and wonderful. ... (more)

An ego stroke

Writing this blog has been fun these past 3 months, even if the audience was limited. And then I came across a mention of my humble project on the Sunday 24th Washington Times!!  Imagine my surprise and amazement that I actually do have an audience!! And I never even bothered to check who was online till very recently...

(go to page2, the quote is this: "Here at the Questionable Odors Desk, we wish Mr. Burr's olfactory receptors luck from this point onward. ... (more)

Autumn is upon us...

Times of misty mysticism, times of veiled dew, cloudy, foreboding skies and falling decaying leaves. A few of the things that rapture my heart and that of the ancients. Autumn in all its glory is finally here; the autumnal equinox marks its official start. ... (more)

What is chic perfume-wise?

The human brain needs small incentive to go on a day dreaming track when provoked. A casual question on a perfume forum made me think about what constitutes chic in perfume. The unanimous response reigning supreme was  Chanel #19, a scent I personally love and consider very chic indeed. Other chypres also featured prominently. However the issue deserves pondering on and not just writing it off with a few predictable recommendations.
Antisthenes, the famous Greek philosopher, has a saying attributed to ... (more)

Technicalities

Sometimes in life one is forced to go into practicalities, boring stuff but necessary. This is one of them. More fun soon!



Bright Crystal chandeliers at the house of Versace

Versace is a designer brand imbued in glamorous baroque images, often over the top, Napoletano insieme Milanese. If one doesn’t know the difference between North and South in Italian culture I guess this is hard to grasp, but suffice to say that anyone in the south aspires to be accepted by northern circles. ... (more)

Flowers by a brook

The title brings to mind the English translation of Caron’s legendary Fleurs de Rocaille. And yet, today we are not going to discuss that one. Instead, Riverside by Anya’s Garden. It is so gratifying to come across a perfume which has an element of the old-fashioned tradition of bygones: true, natural floral essences, rendered by techniques that have gone missing in recent perfumes.

A very floral, more traditional composition that doesn’t jar anyone’s perceptions like Fairchild or Pan does.
It starts on a rosy aspect with lots of geranium and not the familiar old-fashioned intense powderiness of many a rose fragrance, combined with orange blossom/neroli voiceovers that lend some delightful fruity harmonies (actually they’re from blossoms whose ... (more)

Et in Arcadia Ego

The Renaissance and the 19th century literary/arts movement by that name dictated a return to a rustic ideal, the mystique of nature and the pureness of a bygone world.
Pan acts as a homage to the Greek goat-shaped god of Arcadia. Standing for nature’s life force, the bucolic, the hidden libido of the paysage and its fauna, Pan is represented as a horny goat playing pipes, calling all to join him in frolicking.
Although only the pipes remain in a modern world to remind us of him -while in perfume circles ... (more)

Anya's Garden perfumes: Fairchild and more

Natural ingredients from flowers, seeds, fruits, roots, woods and  in some cases from the sea and cruelty-free animal products combine their forces in the perfumes composed by Anya Mc Coy, a former landscape architect and urban designer and now creative head and owner of Anya's Garden Perfumes.
Anya’s name is not an oxymoron as she uses the real deal, ingredients with a firm grip in nature. She has been dabbling with natural essences for a long time and after years of training in the French methods of perfumery and lots of experimentation she has created 3 unique and original hand-made scents: Pan, Fairchild and Riverside.

The perfumes all come in Eau de parfum concentration, which means that they are quite ... (more)

War of the Worlds: naturals vs synthetics

The first half of my title today, which alludes to the famous H.G.Wells novel, is perhaps implying polemics of a greater magnitude. Still, it is hardly a small-scale issue.
Over the last decade a shocking realization dawned in the minds of most people. Ours was a polluted world, a world of decay and man-made confusion. A world in which Man had distanced himself from Nature.
The 90’s saw a growing concern about the environment, animal rights, the resources still available and the reversion to a way of life that would be purer and cleaner. Organic food, fair trade and a return to traditional techniques entered our vocabularies and our lives. Perfume was just one part of the equation that would go with the flow.
Or would it? ... (more)

Must-smells : are there any?

The notion of what is a must-smell and what is not is perhaps a little subjective. After all, what I deem worthy is perhaps not worthy to you. Although it does not have to do with likes/dislikes, rather the breakthrough or -on the other hand- classicism of a given creation, it is still a little difficult to accomplish, because if we try to keep it short, there comes into the play the process of elimination. The task is like eliminating Gaugin over Van Gogh, or Rubens over Rembrant. Although the mastery of the grand masters is not to be compared with an art form that uses questionable techniques and materials lately to accomplish the aim, however there are cases when those afore-mentioned masters experimented with urine to cut paint and with lesser subjects such as cabaret ... (more)

Mozart: who knew there were perfumes to thy name?

Salzburg in Austria is one of the most lovely towns in central Europe. Honestly. Picturesque, full of tradition, close to the Alps and also by a big lake, full of baroque architecture, it has moderate enough climate to welcome visitors any time. And it shows! Cosmopolitan and full of life, refined. Birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and the set of the film The Sound of Music , it exploits the heritage of its classical composer like nothing else. Coffee shops, chocolates, little magnets, even paper napkins bear his name in a business that is ... (more)