Scent of a man: the autumn list
If one needs to ask, then one is on the wrong track altogether and should just drop the issue, crossing his fingers that his wit is on a par with the female in question and praying his charm is evident regardless. But for our purposes, let’s see what I’d like to smell on a man in the cooler autumn months. Not just any man, though…Perfume is all very well and dandy, but it’s not what cuts it in the end.
There are some things I am keeping from mentioning just yet, because they are for even colder weather. For now, these are for your delectation, discerning males.
Black by Bvlgari
Weird (well,not so much…) and wonderful. The rubber tires of a speedy Mercedes E-class swiftly eating asphalt in metropolitan zones , black lapsang souchong tea and vanillic warmth of a hug. Angelina Jolie’s favourite and I can see why. Deserves a separate review at some point.
Dzing by L’artisan parfumeur
An unpopular choice among the innovative L’artisan line, by genius Olivia Giacobetti, originally called Désir de Cirque. Sawdust, cardboard, some leather and turpentine, sweet pungent musks; a must-smell. Close to Black, but weirder. The latter smells relatively tame besides this. For lion tamers, aspiring ones and to be grabbed before they discontinue it.
Voleur de roses by L’artisan parfumeur
What is it that makes roses smell so much better on men? Arabian cultures have cottoned on to the fact and are not hesitant to reap the rewards. I find them so cliché on women, it’s not even funny. Here married to the murky patchouli dirt, they smell interesting and new again. Not your granny perfume, to be sure. If you want to replicate the feeling, if not the exact smell, you can layer 154 and Red Roses by Jo Malone.
Gentleman by Givenchy
If you’re genuinely macho and tough you need an appropriate scent. Brut (la, la, la, I can't hear you) was all very nice, but it’s no more (nitromusks be damned!). So this 1975 number will have them standing attention and saluting. Don't be fooled by the gentle name, this commands respect. With notes of sharp tarragon, cinnamon, bergamot, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, rose, carnation, civet and glorious Russian leather it has the poignant bite of Kurt Vonnegut’s novel and is as much a classic.
Santos by Cartier
Alberto Santos Dumont was a brazilian aviator as a comission to whom Cartier introduced the eponymous wristwatch, although Patek Philippe had already invented one. The ultra-masculine cologne followed, the name being a pillar in the luxury house’s substructure. Strong basil, verbena, rosemary and nutmeg open a vista to geranium, spice and wood. The musk sustains the aircraft at its highest. Perfumes inspired by aviation seem destined to capture my heart.
Bois du Portugal by Creed
Woody scents have their place in autumn more than any other season. Cedar and sandalwood combine their allied forces to render elegance to this really old composition from 1806 associated with Napoléon. Lavender and bourbon vetiver provide the leitmotif.
L’instant homme by Guerlain
Sensuality is thy name. Citrus cooling rush of bergamot, smooth skin and anise-laced breath. Rosy shadows hint at the dark but its gentle warm patchouli and ambrette seeds that form the base. It retains a bittersweet toffee scent that makes one want to bite crisp flesh. Béatrice Piquet, the nose behind this, has come up with a masterpiece. Brava!
Intuition for men by Estée Lauder
There is nothing more pretentious than wanting to stand apart just for the sake of doing so. What’s wrong then with a completely likeable, pleasant mainstream perfume? I might as well include something easy to find and currently available. This ambery light oriental (surely superior to the women’s version) fits the bill and dresses the man who foots the bill.
Eau de monsieur by Annick Goutal
Another classic smell (citron, amber, sandal, musk, oakmoss) that gets bypassed in favour of more unusual stuff. Given the fact that Annick Goutal uses double (if not more) the budget for raw materials than most mainstream perfume companies and that they have discontinued this already (alas!), having a bottle in your stash isn’t a bad idea.
Sables by Annick Goutal
If you crave breakfast in bed and have Canadian affiliations, maple syrup pancakes and all, this will fit to a T. The immortelle note allied to cinnamon and vanilla however is forever reminiscent to me of a special beach in Lesvos Island in Greece. A volcanic place, all hot springs and absolutely no fish in the water, a deserted sugar-like sandy beach near a fossilized forest. The warmth of the sun warms the tree trunks lying in the background. A moment of eternity has just been mine and I can see the history of the earth in a long gaze. Naturally, it got discontinued….
Wild musk by Coty
Barber shops are wonderful places; the old traditional kind where they still put warm towels on the beard and a funny old guy is swinging murder weapons above your head while whistling tunes. Submit to the ritual and then spray some of the vintage cologne to finalise this rite of passage. The loveliest musk with overlays of violet and vanilla and don’t be deterred that it is marketed towards women. Nowadays best in the perfume oil version.
More to come for winter. The list is not by any means conclusive; interesting things pop up here and there, now and again. Feel free to add your recommendations.
The pic of Joaquin Phoenix is featured because it's sensual IMO and his birthday is in autumn (November). Originally uploaded on Perch. Pic of Eau de Monsieur ad from annickgoutal.nl
nine commentsI'm surprised and delighted that you included Intuition for men in your list. I received a bottle as a gift and had no problems using it up. As you say, nice, light and ambery.
And Dzing! Is it really going to be discontinued? I'd hate to be forced to buy back-ups when there is so many other bottles that beckon. But needs must when the Devil drives as they say.
Håkan Nellmar () - 26 09 06
Nice choices, Ms. Helg...I might add Ambre Sultan to the list, Bel Ami,L'Air du Desert...
I feel horribly cheap and tawdry, but thank you ! for putting Joaquin in there...
I need a very cold shower after regarding his magnificently flawed, tortured eroticism... but resent admitting it out loud.
Sei mir gegrusst, Sei mir gekusst...
chayaruchama () - 26 09 06
Håkan, thanks for your comment. Welcome!
I think many mainstream perfumes are bypassed in the interests of finding something unusual, when in fact they are completely lovely. I have recently become acquainted with Intuition for men and it has a comforting smell to me. Very pleasant, as I am sure you've found out using it.
As to Dzing, the official word from the U.S. president of L’Artisan, Francois Duquesne is that it is not getting discontinued just yet, but one has to err on the side of caution, hence my comment. I don't see this one selling lots and this is a precarious position for most such scents, unfortunately.
perfumeshrine - 27 09 06
Dear chayaruchama,
thank you. I have not smelled Ambre Sultan on someone who does justice to the scent (alas!), that's why I didn't include it.
Bel Ami is great, I agree. Must revisit this one.
L'air du desert made an entry in my Chic post below and a seperate review http://perfumeshrine.fortunecity.com/blo..
It would be great on a man! Needs to be more widely known than it currently is.
"Flawed and tortured" sounds about right. Glad we agree. And a Schubert lieder, I think, to boot? :-)
perfumeshrine - 27 09 06
Thought it was about time I paid you a visit. What a great list. Some old favourites, and some I've never tried...
Leopoldo - 28 09 06
Welcome! Don't be a stranger.
I am glad the list was to your liking and hopefully it will give you some incentive to sniff new things.
perfumeshrine - 28 09 06
thanks a lot for the informations. I dont think that sables d annick goutal is discontinued . I find it easily in ATTIKA stores Panepistimioy road Athens Greece.
christos () - 25 11 06
Hi there! Welcome.
No arguing with availability, but production from France has stopped. When those bottles are gone, there will be no more.
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