Flowers by a brook

The title brings to mind the English translation of Caron’s legendary Fleurs de Rocaille. And yet, today we are not going to discuss that one. Instead, Riverside by Anya’s Garden. It is so gratifying to come across a perfume which has an element of the old-fashioned tradition of bygones: true, natural floral essences, rendered by techniques that have gone missing in recent perfumes.

A very floral, more traditional composition that doesn’t jar anyone’s perceptions like Fairchild or Pan does.
It starts on a rosy aspect with lots of geranium and not the familiar old-fashioned intense powderiness of many a rose fragrance, combined with orange blossom/neroli voiceovers that lend some delightful fruity harmonies (actually they’re from blossoms whose smell- although very floral- also brings to mind the fruit to come).

Orange blossom absolute and neroli both come from the flowers, but different methods of extraction render a separate product that has a different smell.
True neroli is distilled from only the blossoms of the Bitter Orange "citrus aurantium" whereas Orange Blossom can come from any orange tree and is more generic. Citrus aurantium is the genus known as Seville bitter orange, the “pig of perfumery” (since it yields so many ingredients)
Petitgrain is also distilled from the leaves of the Bitter Orange, this one from the leaves. (On the other hand, orange oil is cold-pressed from the skins of the fruit of any orange variety and differs slightly among types.)
The water left after the distillation of neroli or orange flower is called a hydrosol. These floral waters are often sold as gentle facial toners/refreshing mists and could be even used in cooking for their soft aroma.

Neroli in particular bears a name imbued in history. By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, duchess of Bracciano and princess of Nerola , introduced the essence of bitter orange tree by using it to perfume her gloves (which was customary at the time, to get rid of the tannin smell of skins, ergo the gantiers later became parfumeurs ) and her bath, thus inaugurating the trend for such smells; later it became the floral core of the classic eau de Cologne.
Neroli has a refreshing and distinctive, delicately spicy aroma with sweet and flowery notes and is one of my favourite uplifting, happy notes in any perfume that it graces with its presence.

Curiously in Riverside the neroli does not make its presence felt at once, upon application, like I am used to (it being a volatile ingredient). I get whiffs of it and of a green lemon-y note like that in O de Lancτme in the midst of other petals unfolding endlessly.
The smell of Turkish rose otto , which is a very costly and precious ingredient is also making its appearance, but sadly I am in no position to fully appreciate it, because rose is not one of the flowers I am taken with. Quality however always shows and this is no exception.
The drydown is creamy and hazy with an unidentified element that is not my personal favourite; honeyed and very sweet to me, , very complex in smell, with elements of bitterness interwined with the sweetness although the beauty of the natural flower essences is undoubted. However if one waits for another couple of hours there is still one more element to come to the fore, which is completely beautiful; a powdery, caramel soft base that lingers and lingers.

Official Notes: pink peppercorn, Turkish rose otto, neroli EO and abs, Jasmine auriculatum, rose geranium, citrus leaf bouquet, orange flower water, musk seed, vanilla, Vanuatu sandalwood, beeswax, tonka
Anya's Description: rosy floral, citrus, peppery, vanilla, fondant

If you want to see the whole range, click here

To contact Anya or order samples, click here

 

Pic is Upsidedown by Isolano/flickr

fifteen comments

I had almost forgotten that there was a blog attached to your site - I just went back and read everything from the beginning. I really like your review style, and all the wonderful stories you tell, as well as the art and poetry. I will not be forgetting about you again!
Flora - 18 09 06

Your encouraging words are very kind, Flora.
Indeed many people only know the site and not the blog. Hopefully the latter will be enjoyable and helpful as well.
Thanks and hope to see you here again.
perfumeshrine - 18 09 06

this sounds so up my alley! Turkish rose otto...and neroli! how wonderful!
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Anya uses top quality ingredients and in floral fragrances that is a must!
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