Autumn is upon us...
Times of misty mysticism, times of veiled dew, cloudy, foreboding skies and falling decaying leaves. A few of the things that rapture my heart and that of the ancients. Autumn in all its glory is finally here; the autumnal equinox marks its official start.
In an increasingly warm climate that perpetuates summer temperatures up to mid-October, this day is more of an astronomical than factual beginning, yet it brings the anticipation of mud and must, of crisp mornings and evenings by the fireplace, of damp boots dragged in from the rain, of hot black tea sipped after the storm.
Choosing perfumes fit for autumn is always a task that brings joy in the heart of every perfume-lover, I think, if only because if one is such, then surely one yearns for a bit more backbone than the usual summer fare provides. Away with the insipid and the watery, in with the robust and hearty.
Along those lines here are my personal feminine favourites for this autumn, about a dozen for our purposes (I am saving some to mention come winter):
Mitsouko by Guerlain
The quintessential rainy perfume. Earthiness meets sensuality. Surely the theme of another separate post, real soon.
Femme by Rochas
Woman as dessert! The inclusion of cumin in the latest re-orchestration by Olivier Cresp is in my opinion a stroke of genius, peach and prune compote dusted with cinnamon, sweaty arms of an oestrogen-rich body carrying tray after tray for the delectation of savouring men.
Rykiel woman-not for men, by Sonia Rykiel
When one is a truly provocative woman, one goes to Rykiel boutique in Paris and purchases the accompanying lingerie and props for SM adventures à deux. When one wants to just hint at such playfulness, one can resort to this perfume, musky florals, biting quinoline, bronze studded cap and your whip or mine?
Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez
How can someone produce such an enchanting perfume of softest musk and sheerest patchouli overtones? How can such a mix smell womanly and alluring? How can all this magic be created with synthetic ingredients? The conundrum of Narciso is fit for all seasons, in my preferable concentration which is the eau de toilette, but autumn should not be deprived of it.
Boucheron femme by Boucheron
Orange blossom exalted, benzoin, olibanum and sandal woven into velvet cloth, majestic proportions of a roman basilica. Rich jewels on the crown of Theodora at the Hippodrome the geese of the past notwithstanding. Sublime.
Vol de Nuit by Guerlain
Poetic voyages of a writer into unknown lands, a perfume that defies classification bearing characteristics of oriental, green and chypre families. Worth moving earth and sky to find.
Angélique Encens by Creed
Hidden behind an incense and amber veil, nursed in the arms of vanillic warmth, jolted into reality by the sharpness of angelica, this Marlen Dietrich commission to Creed is the equivalent of a “result” dress worn by someone who has inner tranquility and a zen mentality. Wear it and prowl.
Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez
Immortalised in the screenplay of Twilight, this somber grandioso composition melds citrus notes into jasmine and orris footed by animalic and resinous notes, like walking out in the grounds of a monastery that hides a dark secret.
Chanel #19 by Chanel
Elegance when peppered with audacity produces such extraordinary examples as this classic. Although it can accompany any season wonderfully, autumn seems like a natural for its iris, cedar and vetiver bouquet, especially in eau de toilette, which is my preferred concentration. The parfum is monumental.
Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens
The den that is a Balkan smoking shop; cognac, milk and tobacco notes which become surprisingly cuddly and sweet on skin. A caress rather than a slap by heavy patriarchal hands. It has been a good day at the market, you see.
154 by Jo Malone
Woody notes lend themselves naturally to autumn. Jo Malone’s creation smells masculine, woody and lovely. All the more reason for a woman to choose this for herself; differentiation from the hoi polloi never hurt anyone. From a spicy citrus top to the lavender heart right to the sandalwood and vetiver base, this is a recent coup de foudre which provides a base for cerebral gallivanting.
Innocent by Thierry Mugler
This enticing, gourmand stuff is anything but innocent, with its croquant heart of sugared almonds and caramel base that differentiates itself just enough from its big brother Angel to pass as something else (given the latter’s extreme popularity), but is equally stunning.
And Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
The regal crown of the collection. Escape and perdition. Addiction and elation. The eternal beginning of an intimate affair throughout autumn and winter. Dying in the first warm days of spring. Till we meet again.
Well, thirteen…As many as the disciples plus Jesus. Not a bad number.
Stay tuned for my male favourites for autumn.
Top pic is by Samantha Everton, courtesy of NewYorker mag. Rykiel woman pic from Escentual. Vol de Nuit pic courtesy of Parfum de Pub. Serge Lutens pic from autourdeserge.
four commentsDear, i love your pointed characterizations and the bewitching images you invoke!
Autumn is my potion and you are the sorceress…
lillie - 09 10 06
Me being a sorceress is quite an enchanting idea to me and I should rethink my career maybe 
I do thank you for your great compliment and hope you enjoy my musings here.
perfumeshrine - 09 10 06
“Poetic voyages of a writer into unknown lands” you say of Vol de Nuit – definitely the case for this aspiring poetess!
Snarkattack - 22 11 06
Your safe journey is guaranteed on the wings of your musical talent for rhythm and harmony. Vol de Nuit might just make the soaring higher…..
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
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