Bright Crystal chandeliers at the house of Versace
Versace is a designer brand imbued in glamorous baroque images, often over the top, Napoletano insieme Milanese. If one doesn’t know the difference between North and South in Italian culture I guess this is hard to grasp, but suffice to say that anyone in the south aspires to be accepted by northern circles.
Gianni and his family were born in southern Reggio in Calabria, the picturesque corner that produces the best bergamot in the world. His fate, a glorious albeit tragic one, was punctuated by excess, style and fervor for classical antiquity that was manifested by the use of meanders and medusae in his opulent, colourful flamboyance.
His life ended alas abruptly; murdered in Miami in 1997, this was a roman tragedy. Donatella, his sister, is carrying on the torch. Or so they say. Personally I think there is something missing in there and one of the sectors that is not especially fulfilling in their impressive industry is the perfume-producing one. And not just lately.
In the plethora of their offerings they cater for men, women and children alike, yet the real gems are few and far between. The really innovative, escapist The Dreamer, created by nose Jean-Pierre Béthouart, is standing proudly alone in the universe of men’s fragrances, fresh and warm simultaneously, with its eerie cocoa and gunpowder accord, of all things! Completely unique and very worth getting.
Blonde, created by nose Natalie Feisthauer -homage to legendary Fracas- is a tuberose typhoon that could whip the most insolent person into submission; glorious in parfum. The Jeans series in all its colourful permutations (Red, Blue, Green, Yellow, Black, White, Metal) is not to be taken seriously per their press releases and they are all fun perfumes indeed, but nothing more I’m afraid.
Lately they have reverted to their all powerful advertising, replete with hints of a ménage a trois, through Crystal Noir, an alloy of amber and gardenia (Donatella’s favourite blossom); a floriental that accomplishes the feat of topping a small bottle Atlas-style with a dark, heavy “rock” hardly capable of balancing on it, shown below.
And here is the latest blurb on the newest product, Bright Crystal: a feminine perfume as a flanker perhaps to their Crystal Noir, but only in the presentation:
“Versace introduce Bright Crystal, a fresh, vibrant and floral fragrance, with delicate tastes of colourful and juicy pomegranate grains, lotus flowers and the enticing presence of plant amber, acajou and musk. A perfect scent for the Versace woman who is a hybrid of strength and confidence yet feminine, sensual and always glamorous.” Official notes: pomegranate, iced accord, yuzu, magnolia, peony, lotus flowers, plant amber, acajou and musk.
The bottle is indeed very pretty, if a little precarious to hold. Faceted crystal like huge quartz or an aspiring to be diamond, it corresponds to its name really well. It is girly and glamorous to the max, meant to be displayed on a flamboyant dresser. “None of the apothecary style and austere designs for us, thank you”, ms.Donatella seems to be saying, flicking her ultra blonde mane to the wind, glossed lip and tanned skin aplenty.
Reading the notes, I was surprised to see a discrepancy between them and what my nose actually smelled. “Delicate tastes of colourful and juicy pomegranate grains”? Are we supposed to taste the jus? And what’s up with the pomegranate? Jo Malone used it in her likeable Pomegranate Noir and Demeter too and suddenly it became the latest trend? I am a little confused, since what I smell upon application is mostly grapefruit with its admittedly succulent aroma or at least a member of the hesperidic family (yuzu). An opening of tart, fruity freshness that is very pleasing to me, echoing the same deceptiveness displayed by Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermθs (although this one goes in different paths from there on) or the more straightforward assertiveness of In Love again and the syrupy-sweet of Baby Doll, both by Yves Saint Laurent . Recent studies have shown that women who wear grapefruit-laden perfumes are perceived to be younger than they really are and I don’t know if it is done on purpose, but the growing number of fragrances for women which feature that particular note points to that direction. This is not a bad thing smell-wise. It does make for a déja-vu, however.
I was also surprised in noticing that the familiar watery floral note of lotus and the other florals are very subdued and not making a grand appearance like I expected by the description. It is as if the floral heart rushes through to give way to the base elements. It segues into soft woody notes and clean, feminine “white musk”: the overall feel is nothing like the exotic acajou and plant amber they have been touting, if only because I never knew they were able to extract essences from a tree mostly known for its homonymous hair-dye colour and its nut. Oh lΰ lΰ, maybe I am being mean here. Poor lab technicians have broken their backs trying to come up with a new molecule for that one! As to plant amber…is there any other variety? I think we all have been educated on that score, already.
The lasting power leaves something to be wished for, because the volatile top notes which account for the fresh impression are very soon gone and the base ingredients do not have enough tenacity. Expect a couple of hours at most, it then needs re-applying, although on the blotter it stays on a little longer.
Mind you, the overall effect of this new perfume is not displeasing; it will not offend, on the contrary it will be nice, young, uplifting. Ladies who love pretty and young things like Gucci Eau De Parfum II in the pink square bottle, In Love Again and the like will be adding this to their wish lists for Christmas possibly.
But where is the innovation, the surprise, the rush of something different? I will settle for the Versace ties and foulards myself.
Pics courtesy of Escentual.
six comments
Dear Helg-
I've enjoyed your posts for quite awhile...
I, too weary of big names that cannot back up their efforts.
It's painfully reminiscent of all those amazingly over-educated folk who can't manage to tie their own shoes, but are replete with doctorates galore...
Everyone may mess up periodically, but , bottom line-
SHOW US THE JUICE !!!
I am not a petty soul. I don't think you are, either.
Perhaps they are convinced of the quality of their offerings?
Or, perhaps, they pander to what they perceive is a taste for mediocrity?
Damned if I know...
Be well, and thanks for your candor!
chayaruchama () - 18 09 06
I agree with you that the juice is much more importan than presentation. Did you know that only about 2-3% of the budget of commercial mainstream perfumes goes into the cost of the actual juice? That's something to ponder...
As to taste for mediocrity, I wouldn't go as far, taken into account that most of the insipid ones go out of production soon enough. But then, so do lots of the very interesting ones.....It's a complex issue: what the masses want and appreciate.
perfumeshrine - 20 09 06
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DkLISA () - 23 02 10
You can also get an idea of what they are about and how to use them because there are some websites dedicated to perfumes. It will help you to finding the best fragrance that really suits you. After using the Versace Perfumes you can enjoy and start a new lifestyle which is the best and elegant. It is very important that use perfume in a proper way like use it on your skin near the warm spots on wrists or behind your ears. After using perfume make sure to store it in a cool dark place. You can literally wear this perfume anywhere you go, may it be work or party or just an outing.
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