Must-smells : are there any?

The notion of what is a must-smell and what is not is perhaps a little subjective. After all, what I deem worthy is perhaps not worthy to you. Although it does not have to do with likes/dislikes, rather the breakthrough or -on the other hand- classicism of a given creation, it is still a little difficult to accomplish, because if we try to keep it short, there comes into the play the process of elimination. The task is like eliminating Gaugin over Van Gogh, or Rubens over Rembrant. Although the mastery of the grand masters is not to be compared with an art form that uses questionable techniques and materials lately to accomplish the aim, however there are cases when those afore-mentioned masters experimented with urine to cut paint and with lesser subjects such as cabaret dance, which yet produced amazing results. 

Francis Kurkdjian in an article in french in the Glamour France edition goes on to reveal which perfumes he regards as must-smells for anyone interested in perfume.
Mr Kurkdjian as you may already know is the famous, innovative and very talented nose behind Gaultier Le Male, Gaultier², Dior's Eau Noire, Davidoff's Silver Shadow, Armani Mania for Men... and one of the most successful fragrances in its category of last few years: Narciso Rodriguez for her (together with Christine Nagel).  He was also single-handedly responsible for one of the most lovely Boutique Exclusives for Guerlain in recent years, Rose Barbare, a scent to receive accolades and which won me by its sheer beauty.
 
He suggests the follow fragrances as absolute "must-smells" (for women): 

1. 1000 by Jean Patou. 
2. Must de Cartier. 
3. Paloma Picasso. 
4. Eau de Rochas for Women. 
5. Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès
6. N°5 in parfum/extract by Chanel. 
7. Shalimar by Guerlain. 
8. Eternity by Calvin Klein. 
9. Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel. 
10. Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens.

The list does have its merits in encompassing major tendencies and traditions in perfume making : 2 Chanels, 1 Guerlain, 3 classic prestigious houses, 1 infamous modern niche, 1 from a jewel house, 1 from a famous designer, 1 from a "celebrity" (although referring to her like that might be sacrilege, since Paloma is a quite creative woman, but she bears a historic name all the same).

If we are thinking along perfume families, there are 2 citrus, 3 orientals, 1 chypre, 3 florals (one woody, one classic aldehydic and one spicy) and 1 floriental/fruity/patchouli melange. ( I really don't know how to classify Coco Mademoiselle).
On the whole it is a little unusual. Makes one think...
No Caron in there? No vintage Diors? Two Chanels, yet one of them is the very modern Mademoiselle, which despite her gorgeous physique is a bottle-blonde (or whatever bottle-colour)? Not some of the more avant-garde offerings from -say- Comme des Garcons or Olivia Giacobetti for L'artisan?
And in those Guerlains, Shalimar reigns supreme, the "Casablanca" of perfumery, the classic to top all classics. Which of course is a little confusing, bearing in mind that the formula has changed a bit down the road. Mind you, though, not the innovation of Mitsouko nor Jicky, nor the wistfulness of L'heure bleue.

I think I see mr. Kurkdjian's point, even if I do not agree with all his choices.

So, have you thought about what you deem as absolute must-smells for perfume lovers?

Pic is Around the bend of memory by Isolano/flickr

I miss-like you- one that I absolutely insist on: Chypre by Coty. Vintage of course. How to judge any chypre with having sniffed the original. And then: Jicky. These two are must’s…no way around them.
Andy - 05 09 06

I am so glad to see it struck a chord with you, Andy.
Yes, I think it’s of paramount importance to get to know the precursors of any category/trend before experiencing the offspring, to better judge the technical merit and expansion on the subject those later ones can then bring.

I also detected a lack of a great “leather”, like say Cuir de Russie. Paloma with its rich castoreum is more animalic, so the list is a bit wanting in that respect too.

Difficult task, all the same, and I do wonder what would be your 10 must-sniffs (OK, your 8 , since you already mention 2)
perfumeshrine - 06 09 06

Ooh, I don’t know that my nose is experienced enough to pick 10! I do love to read others’ lists though :D
Snarkattack - 22 11 06

Personal lists have their own merit sometimes. Please share yours if you want to!
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06

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