Oakmoss and chypre: you've come a long way baby!
Oakmoss has got to be the most controversial ingredient in perfume in recent history. For years used for its mossy, sensual quality and an integral constituent of chypre compositions married to a citrusy top note, traditionally bergamot, it has gone under the strict scrutiny of European regulations and IFRA -the regulatory body for scent materials. And it became the controversial issue in relation to the alleged reformulation of classic Guerlain perfumes, resulting in brouhaha of gigantic proportions. Let's try to sort the mess out a bit.
Basically oakmoss is a type of light green to green black lichen, a fungus growing on trees found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including parts of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and places in Central Europe (Yukoslavian oakmoss was very popular). It forms clumps of bushy thalli. The growth of such lichens indicates good air-conditioning in those areas, as the organisms abhor pollution.
Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, hence the name (mousse de chêne in French); but lichen is also commonly found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers (fir and pine). Technically oakmoss belongs to the genus Evernia and is named Evernia prunastri, differentiating it from its cousin tree moss growing on pines and firs, Evernia Furfuracea. Interestingly, this last ingredient has been found packed into Egyptian mummies.
In perfumery oakmoss has been prized for its aroma, heavy and oriental-like at first, becoming very refined when dried, reminiscent of bark, seashore and foliage. It imparts a wet forest floor aroma in compositions resulting in a naturalness and rich earthy, damp and creamy undercurrent when used with restraint. Its remarkable quality is its ability to render a velvety softness to floral bouquets, green fragrances and heavy orientals alike, also possessing fixative properties imparting longevity in the perfumes that contain it and anchoring the more volatile notes.
Francois Coty, contrary to popular myth, was not the first one to capitalize on its fragrant properties in his Chypre in 1917, which inaugurated a new fragrance family. He did make it popular though and is indirectly responsible for the birth of many wonderful spawns, so a belated huge thanks is in order.
Chypre means of course Cyprus, the greek island of Venus with the rich history , and this is where the composition originated, albeit in a less standardised form, even from the time of Romans who created a mix of storax , labdanum and calamus (ingredients also present in chypre perfumes) in the island of Cyprus; this gave rise to the Middle Ages and Rennaisance alloys with oakmoss at its base.
We learn from Ayala’s excellent Smelly blog that as early as the 12th century AD pastilles and “Oyselets de Chypre” (Chypre Birds) were made by mixing labdanum (a resinous material combed off the hair of goats grazing on cistus labdanum/rockrose), styrax and calamus, with the addition of tragacanth. This was burned as incense, alluding to the ancient ritual origins of perfume “perfumum” (=through smoke); while the birds served decorative purposes and scented the air. It wasn’t until the 14th century that oakmoss was added to these pastilles. Two recipes from 1777 for chypre compositions include oamoss as well as civet, ambergris, musk and various resins and plant aromatics, two of which are rose and orange blossom.
With Coty’s Chypre though a new direction emerged resulting in a plethora of variations with such prestigious members such as Femme, Mitsouko, Bandit, Jolie Madame, Tabac Blond, Cabochard, Cuir de Russie, Aromatics Elixir, Miss Dior, Diorella, Knowing, Ma Griffe, Paloma Picasso and hundreds of others.
The inclusion of oakmoss in those compositions was a foregone conclusion.
However the European Union allergens regulations have changed our understanding of that last part. Deeming oakmoss - and not only that one- an ingredient that has been tied to specific dermatological averse reactions they issued a list of restricted ingredients. The Colipa site and especially the 7th and 36th amendment are of great interest to anyone researching this issue.
More specifically the IFRA regulation states that "Oak moss extracts (e.g. absolute, resinoid, concrete, etc.) obtained from Evernia prunastri should not be used such that the level in consumer products exceeds 0.1%. In the presence of tree moss extracts the level of oak moss has to be reduced accordingly such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed 0.1% in the final product.
Furthermore, oak moss extracts used in perfume compounds must not contain added tree moss. Tree moss contains resin acids. The presence of resin acids can be detected by using a routine analytical method available from IFRA*. However, traces of resin acids are unavoidable in current commercial qualities of oak moss. As an interim standard, these traces must not exceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) dehydroabietic acid (DHA).
This recommendation is based on test data on the sensitising potential of oak moss and tree moss extracts, their cross-reactivity and the absence of sensitisation reactions when tested at 0.6%. In addition, it has been shown that oxidation products of resin acids contribute to the sensitising potential. This adaptation to the Standard aims at reducing exposure to resin acids, while waiting for the final outcome of a current research program.”
This ascertains that it is not oakmoss that is the culprit here, but probably its combination with tree moss. The issue however puts a spin on the reformulation of certain perfumes. Since the rise of the controversy it has been suggested that a warning label on the box of the perfume stating those specific ingredients included (more on that will be the theme of another article) might be the saving grace for those well-respected, nay treasured formulae of yore, especially the historic Guerlain ones. Mitsouko and Parure were prime candidates for a sweeping metamorphosis that would leave them harmed beyond any recognition. Lots of others as well. The official line of Guerlain PR had been denial of any reformulation up to a certain point in time, while in the last couple of years they admitted that the whole commercial line would be re-vamped by the end of 2005 to conform to IFRA regulations. No matter what solution might be suggested the result is that some amount of reformulation has indeed taken place (for the record, some people were in favour of the inclusion of the potential allergens with a warning on the box; others were championing the idea of including them only in parfum concentration or in the boutique exclusives, an idea that frankly reeks of elitism to me).
How could one preserve the use of oakmoss and where would one find it still then?
The “quenching” hypothesis is a fascinating proposition (Opduke as far back as 1976) and consists of the suggestion that inclusion of the anti-inflammatory azulene (naturally occurring in soothing chamomile) might cut down the risk of irritation presented by various objectionable ingredients.
However the odour profile of azulene coupled with its blue colour have presented the perfumer with a challenge as how to incorporate it in such a way as to remain in the wings.
The inclusion of eugenol and limonene at defined ratios to some other sensitising agents (cinnamaldehyde, citral, phenylacetaldehyde) is also worth exploring in regard to oakmoss.
It is debatable if the risk of a rash is so great a concern to warrant complete ban on specific ingredients for everyone. After all fyrocoumarin in elevated doses is also as much a suspect and even methyl eugenol which occurs in basil and rose oil has been called a systematic carcinogen. I do not see a ban on those however.
Many products still use Evernia prunastri (oakmoss) in their formula , they even state so on the box, often with tree moss also included in defined ratios, while others capitalize on the alluring notion of bringing out our inner dryad while using this sensuous forest ingredient still.
Master perfumer Arcadi Boix Camps claims to have succeeded in substituting oakmoss for other combinations that produce a comparative smell, however there is not enough searchable info on what exactly that might be.
Natural perfumers are continuing to use oakmoss absolute rendered by solvent extraction and state its constituents as evernic acid, d-usnic acid, atranorine and chloratronorine. According to Robert Tisserand it is indeed a dermal and mucous sensitiser that should be avoided in pregnancy and epilepsy, but its risks for general use are in direct proportion to the manner of use and ratio in a mix.
Like with everything else, an informed choice is the way to go and hopefully some aspects of oakmoss have been highlighted here.
A newer crop of perfumes that assume the identity of chypre under the alias “mossy woods” in Michael Edwards' classification of perfumes has cropped up in recent years resulting in offerings such as Narciso for Her, Lovely by Jessica Parker, Lauren’s Pure Turquoise and Comme des Garcons White. Those pleasant perfumes substitute oakmoss with a grassy background of patchouli and vetiver that somehow does not smell distinctly chyprish like the classic ones. Whether this is the only way to go for the chypres of tomorrow or there is still a place for traditional oakmoss-laden chypres remains to be seen.
Pic of oakmoss growth from biopix.com
17 commentsGreat post, and VERY thorough, dear Helg.
I presume that you, like myself, adore this natural resource.
Just for perspective-
It has been known, for over 40 years now, that citrus [including bergamot] and lavendar oils, when exposed to sunlight on the skin, cause a rash known as Berloque's dermatitis [after the pendant shape of the rash-,hence, berloque=pendant]...
As far as I can see, no "warnings" on perfume labels call one's attention to this !
{I discovered Berloque's in the 70's- ironically, because I wore my Mitsouko all the time, even in the ocean]
There are always going to be allergens.
I guess, when in doubt - don't...
chayaruchama () - 24 10 06
Thanks for the kind words, Chaya. It is a matter that requires some elaboration. My love for the material's smell has been nurtured in classical chypres and the loss would be insuportable, although I enjoy the new "modern" chypres as well (but can distinguish between the different physiques, all the same).
I knew about the photo-induced toxicity of certain citruses, but the exact lingo of that rush was eluding me. Thanks for providing the info and yes, it's a point that has not been lost on me either.
perfumeshrine - 25 10 06
Oakmoss is the scapegoat of a regulatory system gone mad. Yes, it is a sensitixer and irritant, still no reason to ban it. A warning should siffice, and if other perfumers have found, as I did, that using a touch of ambergirs with a below-minimum amount of oakmoss tincture provide the full bravado of the oakmoss experience, then a nice alternative is at hand.
About the Berloque dermatitis and the industry response: true, there are no warnings, but there are now strict limits on the use of bergamot, in particular, as it is the main culprit, as is lime oil, expressed. Many perfumers have turned to the distilled versions of these oils, voluntarily.
Not quite the same scent, of course, but a compromise, as it seems all is in today's world.
Anya () - 25 10 06
Anya, great perfumer's info on what could be done in order to keep oakmoss as an ingredient. However, surely, ambergris is so expensive and rare that it would defeat the purpose of bringing out a product that would be both not very expensive and conforming to the no sensitising demand. Seems to me like something's got to give!
Extremely interesting about the different methods of rendering the oil of bergamot and lime oil: so distilled is less photo-sensitising than expressed? Thanks for that piece of info, didn't know that.
perfumeshrine - 25 10 06
Fascinating article, Helg. I agree with Anya; there are so many potential irritants in perfumes, it does make one wonder why the IFRA would target oakmoss. Obviously oakmoss needs better lobbyists!
Twitchly - 07 11 06
I am glad you find it worthy of your attention Twitchly and welcome to my blog.
Oakmoss is not alone in the list of irritants targeted by IFRA (you can see some more here: http://membres.lycos.fr/leflacon/informa..
but it does make a huge difference as it is such a pilar in so many well-known perfumes, so the repurcussions are of course greater.Let's see what happens next.
perfumeshrine - 07 11 06
Mostly that’ s because most people don’ t realize how many skills they do have. If you have office skills, for example, you may be able to find work as a virtual assistant. If you have transportation you might try mystery shopping , although it can.
Dete Ctive () - 03 06 09
Dear Helg,
very professional and extremely interesting article.
I'm still wearing EAU SAUVAGE since 1966,while of course alternating hundreds of other products,but I think that the GREAT Edmond Roudnitska would agree with me that the eau de toilette is no more exactly in accordance with his original formula.
Eau sauvage still contains oakmoss,according to the IFRA list:now,could you please give some reasons why I always remember that original terrific smell of citrus, wood and sea,flowers,mist and forest which has disappeared in this product since many years ago,as I can recollect.Am I now too addicted to the flagrance that I feel a different smell or,like in other products,ingredients are not as they were before?
I thank you very much.
Very best regards.
Alberto Novello
alberto - 05 02 07
Excellent post ! Let me add one small factoid. Blue azulene forms in chamomile oil during the distillation process and is absent in cold-extracted chamomile. Btw, though it is a good quencher, azulene, because of its absorption in the visible, has its own photochemical problems :-)
luca turin () - 01 03 07
In attempting to exclude or limit all the ingredients which can cause allergic reactions, perfumery will then become IMPOSSIBLE. Does anybody recall that some people -icluding my late lovely grandmother- were occasionally seasonally afflicted with "rose fever"? Yes, my own grandmother enjoyed having roses growing around our estate, especially Lady Banksia, but she couldn't bring them in her home because they made her eyes itch, water and run and she'd sneeze all day. (My mum, stepfather and us kids lived in a separate house on the property, so we brought in all sorts of roses, irises and such.) Most other blossoms didn't bother my grandmother, but roses truly did. Not for a minute would she have tolerated banning them for others. Queen Anne's Lace bothers some people. Lemongrass bothers others. It's a ridiculouss impossible idea to try to make the world "non-allergenic" for everybody!
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Morticia Addams () - 05 04 07
Please call 772-286-1243 or e-mail your telephone number since I want to order some oak moss essential oil asap.
Thanks
countess () - 20 04 09
Dear Fragrance Genius,
Because of a major life change I am looking for a new fragrance. I love chypre secents...I was devoted to Crepe de Chine (my first perfume) and later Miss Dior. What now? I have extremly white skin, blue eyes and blonde hair. I am 61.I love Mitsouko but it always feels too heavy for me. Parure is great but hard to buy in the USA. Any suggestions?
Thank you for your great website. Pamela
pamela pearce () - 05 09 08
I came across your blog by chance after googling Chance (ha ha) by Chanel, and loved reading all your comments about chypre perfumes and the threat to the future use of oakmoss in the genre. I remember experimenting with an oakmoss substitute when we studied aromatherapy: I think cedarwood and clary sage produced a similar aroma, or do you know another? Anyway, Chance Eau fraiche is a stunning chypre with no oakmoss in sight, perhaps the amber and vetiver combined with patchouli make it mossy enough.
I love your blog and shall return often,
kind regards.
margaret phillips () - 14 07 09
Likewise, please email me. I want to buy some.
Hermes Liberty () - 29 05 10
A perfume I have been wearing for years, Mariel by h20, has been reformulated recently. It no longer smells very good - to me anyway. Why can't perfume companies put a allergy warning on the bottles? There's plenty of perfumes I have been allergic to - guess what, I don't ever wear them again. As a chypre lover, I find the IFRAs restrictions offensive. If I can no longer wear a fragrance that I have worn since the 1990's then something personal has been taken from me. Just put a warning on the box so people can enjoy the greats. When Chanel no. 5 is endangered then you know they are going to far. I know tons of people that have worn that perfume for ages, with no allergies. Honestly, its like removing peanuts, strawberries and chocolate from the market because *some* people are allergic.
seira () - 21 06 10
MT International
This fragrance is great, very basic but elegant. It did not last but half a day. I suppose the one I bought.
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