Un Lys: surrendering to fate
Lily is an unabashedly feminine blossom; lush, plush, deeply odorous, decadent, inducing a state of surrender.
The shape alone entices you to lean in your nose and inhale deeply closing your eyes.
It would be better to open them, however. Because past the loaded stamens of burgundy red, there is the waxy sight and smooth touch of the petals that is redolent of a woman’s skin.
Isabelle Adjani has such a skin, in the best possible sense. Alabaster or mother of pearl doesn’t begin to describe it. Flawless, pale and surrounded by the darkest frieze of ebony hair, she is a living Poe literary heroine. The romantic ideal exalted.
It is of gorgeous Isabelle that I think upon smelling Un Lys (=a lily) by Serge Lutens of Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris. Part of the exclusive range, after a brief limited time featuring in the line-up that is being shipped to the US, it was composed by nose Chris Sheldrake and is one of the fabulous florals that include the equally captivating A la nuit and the gorgeous Fleurs d’oranger.
Isabelle showed her romantic inclinations in many films; however the innocence of character along with the beauty depicted by Un Lys is best represented by her role in the Werner Herzhog film Nosferatu starring Klaus Kinsky (father of Nastasia Kinsky).
In this remake of the Murnau-directed silent film (which in turn was based on Stoker’s Dracula, but with changed names because of copyright held by Stoker’s widow at the time), Adjani lures in the lovesick vampire into her bed, enticing him until the “terrible dawn” rises and destroys the vampire, who literally dies of love.
Count Orlok, the vampire, was played by the actor Max Shreck in the original Murnau film and his name was borrowed by Tim Burton for the villain in his Batman II (a cinematic homage to German Expressionism visually) ; it figures…
If you still want to explore further, watch Shadow of the Vampire starring John Malkovich and a Willem Dafoe made-up to amazingly resemble the Count of the first film. (I couldn’t believe my eyes!)
Un Lys plays up on notes of lily and vanilla, a light touch that surrounds the petals and makes for lasting power on the skin. Upon opening the bottle the smell that emanates is velvety soft and mostly reminiscent of lilac, as witnessed by many devotees. Of course lilac is not listed as a note; neither does it yield a useful essential oil for perfumery, because the oil rendered does not actually smell like the living thing. Therefore an array of synthetics, such as Apo patchone, Lindenol, Nerol 800/900, Terpineol Extra and Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol are used in substituting for it.
I have no gas chromatographer by my side, nor any conclusive testimony whether one of those ingredients goes into the production of Un Lys, but thought it might be a good idea to list them, as many people swear that they smell lilac when they experience Un Lys.
To me personally it is the slightly musky background, vibrant and fragile at the same time, which captivates me and contributes to my likening it to flawless feminine skin. The sweet backdrop of vanilla is just a touch, enough to make this cherubic.
Un Lys is the dying breath of an angel in heaven and you should encounter it with the proper respect and awe.
Dear Helg-
Didn't you just nail it...
She, that film, and Un Lys , represent penultimate sensuality of the most languorous sort.
And don't forget Adele H. !
Years ago, I had the difficult task of choosing only a few SL's to bring back to the States, and this was one.
It can overwhelm a woman who is insecure in her femininity- the eroticism is so potent.
So glad we both love it !
I'll bet Dinazad does, too...
She's my kind of gal.
chayaruchama () - 03 11 06
Chaya, indeed they represent a very feminine, sensuous ideal. A quality that has been mocked of lately with more vulgarised displays. Delicate eroticism and languor is to be treasured.
I am certainly refueling my bottle when it ends. Eager to see what Dinazad has to say ;-)
perfumeshrine - 03 11 06
Helg, you hit the nail on the head with the statement "an angel's dying breath". I adore Un Lys and have 2 bottles of it, usually 3 but I have already emptied one. I ADORE this fragrance!!
CHAR () - 05 11 06
Thanks Char and welcome!Hope you enjoy the blog.
I adore Un Lys myself obviously and find it cherubic and sensual at the same time. Clearly out of this world...one of the best in SL's line IMO.
perfumeshrine - 05 11 06
What a lovely review! And here I am - never smelled Un Lys! (sorry, Chaya, my sweet). Oh, I'll just go off and wail in a corner until my bank account allows me to traipse off to Paris again and DEFINITELY will try it then...... *sobs quietly but with great stamina*
dinazad () - 06 11 06
Oh dear, no need to go to Paris for that! You can always ask a european friend to do a custom purchase for you. The Palais ships to any addy in Europe.
In the meantime, if you really really want to try it, even I could send you a little sample. Just say the word.
perfumeshrine - 06 11 06
Dear helg,
thank you so much for your romantic ode to Un Lys. Your depiction is breattakingly beautiful.
Yours
lillie
lillie - 06 11 06
Dearest N, thank you so much for your compliment and am very glad you enjoyed the review. Un Lys is so magical it can only elicit the most romantic in me.
perfumeshrine - 06 11 06
Dearest, I am NOT going to shell out the exorbitant prices of the Palais for an unsniffed scent, especially since florals, no matter how ravishing, generally smell better in the bottle than they do on me. And especially in view of the joyous fact that I will be plonking down the plastic for a bottle of Borneo for my yearly pre-Christmas Palais treat (smells of griottes in chocolate on me....) any day now. And buying online is so desperately unsexy. I do prefer to scrimp and save for a regular jaunt to Paris(I live in Switzerland, so that's quite feasible) and enter the hallowed lilac and purple halls where young men in extremely pristine white shirts don't talk to you, they waft words in your general direction, and the atmosphere is so rarefied that SAs wear black gloves so they won't soil the black lacquer of the lipstick cases they present to you for inspection. At least, you get a show for your your troubles (and money) there! But, if I may, I'll take you up on your offer and beg for a tiny drop of the magical lily to try - so I can play one of the cognoscenti when next I sweep into the fragrance temple! (I'd better get a new hat for the occasion)
dinazad () - 07 11 06
Dinazad, you have mail! And love your talk about the boutique.
perfumeshrine - 07 11 06
Okay, I'm not going to even contemplate competing with all the eloquent comments about this here fragrance, but allow me the luxury of brevity (I am a poet after all, we're poor and aim for economy in words :D) -
Un Lys is pure sex to olfactory senses. Sigh.
Snarkattack () - 22 11 06
I so agree with you dear G! Thanks for using your poetic gift for commenting on it.
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
Thanks for the review Helg.......
We have lots of the same fragrance taste! Your ability to put it into words inspires me.
Gloria
glorious1 () - 25 04 07
i am trying to contact chris sheldrake/ am an old friend from paris, paris do you have his ph # could you e mail me or have him check my web site with all my info,pinadealba.com thank you
arthur pina () - 18 05 09
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