Other new releases have us left if not in such rapt attention, at least with an eye for a pleasant surprise at least.
Lalique Encre Noire (black ink) is the fourth masculine fragrance by the venerable crystal house and looks to be very woody. The nose behind it is Nathalie Lorson of Firmenich and the composition will pair 2 varieties of a rich undergrowth that surely is every construction engineer’s dream and nightmare, vetiver. The Bourbon vetiver variety with its warm, velvety , leathery ambience is married to Haitian vetiver which is more mysterious and smokier to the point of dirty. Sounds promising…
The same company is also releasing a new limited edition of crystal bottle for their eponymous original scent, as is customary in recent years. Collectors take note.
Miller & Bertaux have created Bois de Gaïac et Poire, a composition of gaiacwood and pear. Issued first at their Parisian boutique on rue Ferdinand Duval (end of September) and later at other global points of sale.
Givenchy is hot on the heels of antagonism with their Jardin d’Interdit. No further info as yet, but the name alludes to a more floral flanker on their already tired in my opinion interpretation of L’interdit of recent years (a reformulation of their classic aldehydic floral immortalized by Audrey Hepburn which had many doubting their noses, as no formal warning had been issued on the issue ).
Christian Dior capitalizes on the success of Addict with their new Addict Extrême , which begs the question how much more extreme can one go, but I digress. However it is refreshing to see a tendency towards what seems to be deeper scents, lately (I would be very surprised indeed if this new version is a light or fruity specimen!).
There also plans for a men’s scent by Tom Ford , as well as the debut fragrance by Dsquared fashion designing duo, announced as 2007 releases, but still very vague about specific dates.
Boss is also issuing Baldessarini Ambré, a flanker to their masculine Baldessarini line which encompases the original and Del Mar versions. (although I like the former I was not thrilled by the latter). P&G who are responsible for the new perfume tell us that it will feature notes of red apple and mandarin with a heart of violet (I see a trend emerging )and leather, the whole finishing on oakmoss, vanilla, amber and labdanum. The central idea was to instill a whisky accord and the idea is pleasant enough, especially for those who would like the zing of a shot without the migraine. Set to launch come February.
And last but not least Bottega Venetta, the uber-luxury house will jump on the bandwagon of scent launching a perfume for women by nose Olivia Giacobetti of Dzing, En Passant and Preparation parfumée Andrée Putman fame. I am all nostrils with anticipation…
two commentsA Lalique scent that veers away from sugar? Promising indeed (OK, I’ll admit I haven’t smelled the gents’ fragrances – but the gals’ are too desserty for my taste, even if the simple crystal flacon of Le Parfum Lalique was stunning)! Now that ink scents are coming, I’m eagerly waiting for somebody to use that wonderful glue I remember from childhood in a perfume….. It came in a metal container (later on, as modern times arrived, in a green plastic one) and smelled of almonds and honey and marzipan and much, much nicer things than school, where we used it! (and hey: I liked school!)
dinazad (
email) - 20 10 06
Indeed the feminine scents in the Lalique line could shatter crystal with their sweetness!
Ink is an interesting smell and I am sure the glue you describe must be very interesting too. (Marzipan has indeed a glue-like aroma, wonder why?). My most vivid glue memory however is a tactile one: liquid glue getting dry slowly between thumb and fingertip, forming threads. Fascinating in a most childish way!
perfumeshrine - 20 10 06
L’artisan’s new Fleur de Narcisse brought to my mind something I had read a long time ago. Joan Julliet Buck, editor of French Vogue, was for years addicted to wearing a narcissus poeticus absolute. She used to wear one drop on each wrist, it being so concentrated that it was all she ever needed. “Two in the bath were enough to send silver running down the walls; it set the world throbbing out of control when I wore it. It became a little weird. It was only years later that I read that inhaling too much of it can make you mad”, she has been quoted to say.
Madness, poetry, out of control: in short both mythology and the damned poets of the 19th centrury. Fleur de narcisse does nothing conventionally pretty and is so heart achingly multifaceted to warrant elaborating.
Narcissus poeticus, the asphodel of Greek mythology, the flower of the underwold; of oblivion and perdition. And yet, the daffodil (the common name for its brother, the pseudonarcissus) is botanically-speaking a purported cure for madness.
Daffodil or “Lent Lily,” was once white; but Persephone, daughter of Demeter (Ceres), delighted to wander about the flowery meadows of Sicily. One spring-tide she tripped over the meadows, wreathed her head with wild lilies, and, throwing herself on the grass, fell asleep. The god of the Infernal Regions (called Pluto by the Romans), fell in love with the beautiful maid, and carried her off for his bride. His touch turned the white flowers to a golden yellow, and some of them fell in Acheron , the underworld river, where they grew luxuriantly; and ever since the flower has been planted on graves. Theophilus and Pliny tell us that the ghosts delight in the flower, called by them the Asphodel. It was once called the Affodil. (French, asphodéle; Latin, asphodilus; Greek, asphodilos.)
Narcissus, also enters the associations; the greek mortal who fell in love with his youthful image as reflected in the clear waters of a pond. It was his punishment for rejecting so cruelly the nymph Écho. The best known version of the myth is contained in Metamorphoses by Ovid.
And then more aptly than anything else, Rimbaud’s poem “Le dormeur de Val” (Sleeper in the Valley) enters my head. Of course the poem was written about war and the sleeper is a dead soldier...The arresting imagery of this exquisite poem written at the tender age of 16 was what Fleur de Narcisse evoked in my mind immediately.
C'est un trou de verdure, où chante une rivière
Accrochant follement aux herbes des haillons
D'argent; où le soleil, de la montagne fière,
Luit: c'est un petit val qui mousse de rayons.
Un soldat jeune, bouche ouverte, tête nue,
Et la nuque baignant dans le frais cresson bleu,
Dort; il est étendu dans l'herbe, sous la nue,
Pâle dans son lit vert ou la lumière pleut.
Les pieds dans les glaïeuls, il dort. Souriant comme
sourirait un enfant malade, il fait un somme:
Nature, berce-le chaudement: il a froid.
Les parfums ne font pas frissonner sa narine.
Il dort dans le soleil, la main sur sa poitrine
Tranquille. Il a deux trous rouges au côté droit.
by Arthur Rimbaud, novembre 1870
Here is an english translation by Lisa Yannucci (scroll down)
Spraying Fleur de Narcisse on the skin, the verdancy of rich vetiver married to pungent virile leather reminds me of the wet black earth and the oily old tar of a dirty forgotten road. Masculine soiled boots tread on a never ending journey through fields scattered with heady fatty asphodels into the great unknown. Poignant cries of the damned tear the heart strings. Sweet and salty grains of pollen fly into the air, reminding the joys of what cannot be had any more; the light, the sun, the warmth. Sad powder and wetness, warm cloth and cool dampened hopes; one last whiff of rich smoke before succumbing to the fate of us all...
Part of the new privée collection of millesime/harvests by L’artisan parfumeur, first of which was the crystalline floral Fleur d’Oranger made by Anne Flipo using the Tunisian orange blossom Vergers de Nabeul from the spring 2004 harvest and launching it in 2005.
This new one is also made by Anne Flipo using the exceptional harvest of narcissus blossoms from the volcanic area of Lozère, part of the Languedoc-Roussillon region in southern France during the days of June 6th and 7th of 2005.
The official notes are: narcissus, hay, hyacinth, blond tobacco, iris, blackcurrant bud, moss and leather.
Released as a limited edition in only 3000 numbered bottles of Eau de parfum 100ml encased in wooden boxes like a fine vintage of wine, foiled with silk paper, the bottle engraved with narcissus flowers, it will retail for 240 euros which is around 300$. Exorbitant price for sure, but narcissus poeticus is an extremely costly ingredient anyway.
Available from First in fragrance/Aus liebe zum duft in Europe as we speak and soon in the US in November at L’Artisan Parfumeur Soho, Henri Bendel, and Madison Avenue boutiques, select retailers and the L'artisan boutique on-line.
Pic is "La Metamorphose of Narcisse" by Salvador Dali courtesy of perso.orange.fr
Dear God, Helg…
THAT good?
Rimbaud good ?
Dali good ?
Help me, Jesus [Yahweh, Allah, Buddha, et al]...
All one really has to do, is mention volcanic areas of Languedoc to start my salivation [what a cheap date I am!].
chayaruchama (
email) - 20 10 06
Actually, you’re a very expensive date, if you are keen on Languedoc volcanic areas! LOL
Seriously, this is definitely not a plain, simple soliflore and it evokes sadness and wonder. It is completely magical.
perfumeshrine - 20 10 06
Hi Helg….
Thank you for directing me to your review. It is beautifully done. Now, I am even more anxious to try this. Once I receive it, I’ll let you know what I think of it on my skin. I’m hoping it evokes the sadness and wonder that you wrote about.
Dawn
Dawn (
email) - 31 10 06
Thank you for the time it took you to read it and for your comment Dawn. I am looking forward to hearing your impressions once you test it and have formed an opinion. It’s a complex multi-layered perfume, not a soliflore, despite the name.
perfumeshrine - 31 10 06
Really, Helg, your prose is becoming more and more magisterial. I must sniff this.
And your blog is up there with the best of the rest; I’ve missed it whilst I’ve been away.
Leopoldo (
email) - 01 11 06
Your touching comments will give rise to a head of magisterial proportions for me, for sure, Leopoldo! Thank you for the wonderful compliment and hope you catch up with the reviews. Hope you had a lovely time, wherever you went.
Fleur de Narcisse was definitely one that made a deep impression, much more than the simple Fleur d’oranger from last year.
perfumeshrine - 02 11 06
Fragonard, french house in Grasse, the capital of fragrance in Provence, is issuing Billet Doux, a new women's fragrance to celebrate their 80th anniversary in the perfume business. Billet Doux -which means "love letter" in english- revisits a classic Fragonard perfume which was discontinued, so this is a re-creation actually.
The scent is "a homage to the most stunningly scented blossoms of the French Riviera" while the beautiful flacon "is nestled inside a luxurious, golden envelope"(according to Osmoz). The bottle is indeed all curves and golden opulence, a nod to old-fashioned retro style.
It encompasses a refreshing top note of mandarin Orange, bergamot and lemon , seguing into middle notes of Sweet William carnation, peony and shades of frangipani Blossom, with a woody vanillic base of cedar, vanilla and musk. It comes in a 50ml/1.7oz bottle of Eau de Parfum at the price of 45 euros.
F! for men is a perfume purported to be "as saucily bold and impertinent as an exclamation point". A woody-spicy scent with accents of amber and leather, encased in a minimalist aluminum cylinder that can be recharged (very good idea; although the refills come in a gigantic 600ml quantity). The scent itself features a citrus spice opening of bergamot, black pepper, verbena, juniper berry; a heart stage of gaiac wood, nutmeg and clove; and the final drydown includes the fragrant notes of cedar, patchouli, amber and leather. (via Osmoz). The eau de toilette comes in bottles of 100ml/3.4oz and the really big 200ml/6.8oz. In the line there can also be found an after shave balm in an aluminum bottle with pump and a shower gel exploring the same fragrant ambience.
Pic is Billet Doux by french painter Jean Honoré Fragonard
Love letters, and F!...
Is Fragonard trying to tell us something, Helg?
Could be lovely- let us know if you get to sniff before the rest of us do !
chayaruchama (
email) - 21 10 06
Most certainly I will. And they do sound interesting (but then, what doesn’t in the beginning?). My Fragonard experience is limited, though, for now.
perfumeshrine - 21 10 06
According to industry rumours, Parfums Givenchy are scheduling the relaunch of many of their classic fragrances in limited editions to celebrate the house's 50th anniversary in 2007. Ultra elegant Hubert de Givenchy is no longer head of the house to rejoice, but I bet this would be good news all the same. In the last decade due to dubious launches, especially since the company was acquired by the LVMH Group, parfums Givenchy were seen as a poor relation to Christian Dior, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. The latest offering Ange ou Démon did not help in this regard, I'm afraid, although the reviews for Amarige Mariage are leaving some leeway of hope.
In this day and age the most prevalent products on Givenchy perfume counters and their best known perfumes for women are Ysatis, Amarige, Organza and Very Irrésistible. Recent attempts to spin a special yarn of quality resulting in the Harvest series of 2005 (issued however in 2006) for the above perfumes, highlighting the one pivotal flower in each of the compositions with an exceptional harvest of blooms for it -namely mimosa for Amarige, jasmine for Organza, and rose for Very Irrésistible- have met with some lovely results; my favourite out of those has been the Organza Jasmine Harvest, a trully deep floriental that is redolent of the jasmine bush. Ysatis Iris had preceeded them in 2004, but the marketing behind it did not focus on the wine-harvest connection, an aspect they have wisened up to.
In an effort to satisfy news-thristy department stores audiences the house has become tired and full of "flankers"; industry name for perfumes that follow in the wake of a previous successful release capitalising on the name and exposure of the original in order to generate more interest in the brand. Such a case it proved to be for Insensé Ultramarine (1994) Xeryus rouge (1995), Extravagance d'Amarige (1998), Amarige d'Amour (2002) , Hot Couture white collection (2001), My Couture (2002), Pi Fraîche (2001), Insensé Ultramarine Ocean spirits series for men (2002), Insensé for her (2004), Insensé ultramarine beach in Boy and Girl versions(2006) and countless others. All in all a staggering 61 perfumes in as much as 49 years, of which only 9 were issued in the first 30 years of the house's history!! That means 52 launches in the last 15 years!! (if we consider the fact that Amarige was the 10th, launched in 1991). Think about it. It's preposterous.
Many of those did not even register, not making one tiny bleep on the radar, which is quite natural when one is faced with such a wide selection of fumes to choose from. The mind boggles and the nose stops to function properly at some point. Not to mention that a perfume counter can accomodate only so many bottles before it looks like a bad case of a discount warehouse.
The most interesting and unique offerings yet have been discontinued or are very hard to find: Givenchy Gentleman, a sturdy leather/woody of 1974, and Organza Indecence of 1999, a deep cinnamon vanillic composition that proved very popular in the US, and of course the citrusy classic Monsieur de Givenchy of 1959, the one which was kept into production because it was mr.Hubert's personal scent, are all such cases. However such chic classics as the original Audrey Hepburn favourite L'interdit (=the forbidden), a violet laced aldehydic floral from 1957 for a most elegant lady , Givenchy III a chypre of the most noble character coming out in 1970, and the even more elusive clean, aldehydic hesperidic Le De Givenchy (issued in 1957 -same year as L'interdit; something unheard of the time- and also linked to Audrey) are set to be among the new relaunches. Supposedly keeping the original formulae and issued as limited editions for fans and collectors, this is both an admirable task as well as a difficult one, what with the scarcity of certain ingredients and the lack of the bases of yesteryear. Hope springs eternal however and I can't find it in my heart to bypass such an effort. Let's see what happens.
The first to see the light of day is the original L'interdit, following its reformulation a couple of years ago which left its fans in rapt disillusionement (and yes, the oxymoron is intentional). It will be available next August. Hurray for Givenchy fans and hopefully a new begining for a house that seemed disoriented for quite some time.
Pic depicting Audrey Heburn and Hubert de Givenchy comes from Audrey1.com
Next post will be about a thorny subject in perfume making.
My ex brought me a bottle of L’interdit from the duty free shop on his first business trip overseas. I thought the red fabric moire box was a bit over the top, and the juice rather “old” for me, but I did grow to love it. Now, sadly, the juice, although carefully stored, has turned, and I find myself longing for the experience of wearing the untained version. Now, I have some hope that the reformulation of the reformulation to capture the original will be mine 
I agree with the observation that spewing out so many frags is odd and self-defeating. Rather desperate and transparent attempt to try to capture some of the market, and failing doubly, in the attempt, and also in the way it has cheapened the name of Givenchy.
Anya (
email) - 25 10 06
It must be heartbreaking to unearth a vintage frag only to find it has turned…So sorry about that. Well, it happened in a time frame when your mourning won’t be for long, so I guess you’re lucky in a way: less than a year ahead.
Givenchy has been losing credence in the last decade slowly and surely. It’s high time they picked themselves up! Let’s wish them best of luck.
perfumeshrine - 25 10 06
Oakmoss has got to be the most controversial ingredient in perfume in recent history. For years used for its mossy, sensual quality and an integral constituent of chypre compositions married to a citrusy top note, traditionally bergamot, it has gone under the strict scrutiny of European regulations and IFRA -the regulatory body for scent materials. And it became the controversial issue in relation to the alleged reformulation of classic Guerlain perfumes, resulting in brouhaha of gigantic proportions. Let's try to sort the mess out a bit.
Basically oakmoss is a type of light green to green black lichen, a fungus growing on trees found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including parts of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and places in Central Europe (Yukoslavian oakmoss was very popular). It forms clumps of bushy thalli. The growth of such lichens indicates good air-conditioning in those areas, as the organisms abhor pollution.
Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, hence the name (mousse de chêne in French); but lichen is also commonly found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers (fir and pine). Technically oakmoss belongs to the genus Evernia and is named Evernia prunastri, differentiating it from its cousin tree moss growing on pines and firs, Evernia Furfuracea. Interestingly, this last ingredient has been found packed into Egyptian mummies.
In perfumery oakmoss has been prized for its aroma, heavy and oriental-like at first, becoming very refined when dried, reminiscent of bark, seashore and foliage. It imparts a wet forest floor aroma in compositions resulting in a naturalness and rich earthy, damp and creamy undercurrent when used with restraint. Its remarkable quality is its ability to render a velvety softness to floral bouquets, green fragrances and heavy orientals alike, also possessing fixative properties imparting longevity in the perfumes that contain it and anchoring the more volatile notes.
Francois Coty, contrary to popular myth, was not the first one to capitalize on its fragrant properties in his Chypre in 1917, which inaugurated a new fragrance family. He did make it popular though and is indirectly responsible for the birth of many wonderful spawns, so a belated huge thanks is in order.
Chypre means of course Cyprus, the greek island of Venus with the rich history , and this is where the composition originated, albeit in a less standardised form, even from the time of Romans who created a mix of storax , labdanum and calamus (ingredients also present in chypre perfumes) in the island of Cyprus; this gave rise to the Middle Ages and Rennaisance alloys with oakmoss at its base.
We learn from Ayala’s excellent Smelly blog that as early as the 12th century AD pastilles and “Oyselets de Chypre” (Chypre Birds) were made by mixing labdanum (a resinous material combed off the hair of goats grazing on cistus labdanum/rockrose), styrax and calamus, with the addition of tragacanth. This was burned as incense, alluding to the ancient ritual origins of perfume “perfumum” (=through smoke); while the birds served decorative purposes and scented the air. It wasn’t until the 14th century that oakmoss was added to these pastilles. Two recipes from 1777 for chypre compositions include oamoss as well as civet, ambergris, musk and various resins and plant aromatics, two of which are rose and orange blossom.
With Coty’s Chypre though a new direction emerged resulting in a plethora of variations with such prestigious members such as Femme, Mitsouko, Bandit, Jolie Madame, Tabac Blond, Cabochard, Cuir de Russie, Aromatics Elixir, Miss Dior, Diorella, Knowing, Ma Griffe, Paloma Picasso and hundreds of others.
The inclusion of oakmoss in those compositions was a foregone conclusion.
However the European Union allergens regulations have changed our understanding of that last part. Deeming oakmoss - and not only that one- an ingredient that has been tied to specific dermatological averse reactions they issued a list of restricted ingredients. The Colipa site and especially the 7th and 36th amendment are of great interest to anyone researching this issue.
More specifically the IFRA regulation states that "Oak moss extracts (e.g. absolute, resinoid, concrete, etc.) obtained from Evernia prunastri should not be used such that the level in consumer products exceeds 0.1%. In the presence of tree moss extracts the level of oak moss has to be reduced accordingly such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed 0.1% in the final product.
Furthermore, oak moss extracts used in perfume compounds must not contain added tree moss. Tree moss contains resin acids. The presence of resin acids can be detected by using a routine analytical method available from IFRA*. However, traces of resin acids are unavoidable in current commercial qualities of oak moss. As an interim standard, these traces must not exceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) dehydroabietic acid (DHA).
This recommendation is based on test data on the sensitising potential of oak moss and tree moss extracts, their cross-reactivity and the absence of sensitisation reactions when tested at 0.6%. In addition, it has been shown that oxidation products of resin acids contribute to the sensitising potential. This adaptation to the Standard aims at reducing exposure to resin acids, while waiting for the final outcome of a current research program.”
This ascertains that it is not oakmoss that is the culprit here, but probably its combination with tree moss. The issue however puts a spin on the reformulation of certain perfumes. Since the rise of the controversy it has been suggested that a warning label on the box of the perfume stating those specific ingredients included (more on that will be the theme of another article) might be the saving grace for those well-respected, nay treasured formulae of yore, especially the historic Guerlain ones. Mitsouko and Parure were prime candidates for a sweeping metamorphosis that would leave them harmed beyond any recognition. Lots of others as well. The official line of Guerlain PR had been denial of any reformulation up to a certain point in time, while in the last couple of years they admitted that the whole commercial line would be re-vamped by the end of 2005 to conform to IFRA regulations. No matter what solution might be suggested the result is that some amount of reformulation has indeed taken place (for the record, some people were in favour of the inclusion of the potential allergens with a warning on the box; others were championing the idea of including them only in parfum concentration or in the boutique exclusives, an idea that frankly reeks of elitism to me).
How could one preserve the use of oakmoss and where would one find it still then?
The “quenching” hypothesis is a fascinating proposition (Opduke as far back as 1976) and consists of the suggestion that inclusion of the anti-inflammatory azulene (naturally occurring in soothing chamomile) might cut down the risk of irritation presented by various objectionable ingredients.
However the odour profile of azulene coupled with its blue colour have presented the perfumer with a challenge as how to incorporate it in such a way as to remain in the wings.
The inclusion of eugenol and limonene at defined ratios to some other sensitising agents (cinnamaldehyde, citral, phenylacetaldehyde) is also worth exploring in regard to oakmoss.
It is debatable if the risk of a rash is so great a concern to warrant complete ban on specific ingredients for everyone. After all fyrocoumarin in elevated doses is also as much a suspect and even methyl eugenol which occurs in basil and rose oil has been called a systematic carcinogen. I do not see a ban on those however.
Many products still use Evernia prunastri (oakmoss) in their formula , they even state so on the box, often with tree moss also included in defined ratios, while others capitalize on the alluring notion of bringing out our inner dryad while using this sensuous forest ingredient still.
Master perfumer Arcadi Boix Camps claims to have succeeded in substituting oakmoss for other combinations that produce a comparative smell, however there is not enough searchable info on what exactly that might be.
Natural perfumers are continuing to use oakmoss absolute rendered by solvent extraction and state its constituents as evernic acid, d-usnic acid, atranorine and chloratronorine. According to Robert Tisserand it is indeed a dermal and mucous sensitiser that should be avoided in pregnancy and epilepsy, but its risks for general use are in direct proportion to the manner of use and ratio in a mix.
Like with everything else, an informed choice is the way to go and hopefully some aspects of oakmoss have been highlighted here.
A newer crop of perfumes that assume the identity of chypre under the alias “mossy woods” in Michael Edwards' classification of perfumes has cropped up in recent years resulting in offerings such as Narciso for Her, Lovely by Jessica Parker, Lauren’s Pure Turquoise and Comme des Garcons White. Those pleasant perfumes substitute oakmoss with a grassy background of patchouli and vetiver that somehow does not smell distinctly chyprish like the classic ones. Whether this is the only way to go for the chypres of tomorrow or there is still a place for traditional oakmoss-laden chypres remains to be seen.
Pic of oakmoss growth from biopix.com
Great post, and VERY thorough, dear Helg.
I presume that you, like myself, adore this natural resource.
Just for perspective-
It has been known, for over 40 years now, that citrus [including bergamot] and lavendar oils, when exposed to sunlight on the skin, cause a rash known as Berloque’s dermatitis [after the pendant shape of the rash-,hence, berloque=pendant]...
As far as I can see, no “warnings” on perfume labels call one’s attention to this !
{I discovered Berloque’s in the 70’s- ironically, because I wore my Mitsouko all the time, even in the ocean]
There are always going to be allergens.
I guess, when in doubt – don’t…
chayaruchama (
email) - 24 10 06
Thanks for the kind words, Chaya. It is a matter that requires some elaboration. My love for the material’s smell has been nurtured in classical chypres and the loss would be insuportable, although I enjoy the new “modern” chypres as well (but can distinguish between the different physiques, all the same).
I knew about the photo-induced toxicity of certain citruses, but the exact lingo of that rush was eluding me. Thanks for providing the info and yes, it’s a point that has not been lost on me either.
perfumeshrine - 24 10 06
Oakmoss is the scapegoat of a regulatory system gone mad. Yes, it is a sensitixer and irritant, still no reason to ban it. A warning should siffice, and if other perfumers have found, as I did, that using a touch of ambergirs with a below-minimum amount of oakmoss tincture provide the full bravado of the oakmoss experience, then a nice alternative is at hand.
About the Berloque dermatitis and the industry response: true, there are no warnings, but there are now strict limits on the use of bergamot, in particular, as it is the main culprit, as is lime oil, expressed. Many perfumers have turned to the distilled versions of these oils, voluntarily.
Not quite the same scent, of course, but a compromise, as it seems all is in today’s world.
Anya (
email) - 25 10 06
Anya, great perfumer’s info on what could be done in order to keep oakmoss as an ingredient. However, surely, ambergris is so expensive and rare that it would defeat the purpose of bringing out a product that would be both not very expensive and conforming to the no sensitising demand. Seems to me like something’s got to give!
Extremely interesting about the different methods of rendering the oil of bergamot and lime oil: so distilled is less photo-sensitising than expressed? Thanks for that piece of info, didn’t know that.
perfumeshrine - 25 10 06
Fascinating article, Helg. I agree with Anya; there are so many potential irritants in perfumes, it does make one wonder why the IFRA would target oakmoss. Obviously oakmoss needs better lobbyists!
Twitchly - 07 11 06
I am glad you find it worthy of your attention Twitchly and welcome to my blog.
Oakmoss is not alone in the list of irritants targeted by IFRA (you can see some more here: http://membres.lycos.fr/leflacon/informa..
but it does make a huge difference as it is such a pilar in so many well-known perfumes, so the repurcussions are of course greater.Let’s see what happens next.
perfumeshrine - 07 11 06
The newest fragrance created by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake for Les Palais Royal de Shiseido and Serge Lutens,Mandarine Mandarin, has its place in the line-up of usual suspects for things weirdly appealing. A tradition that Lutens is keeping with religious zeal injecting a little je ne sais quoi in his compositions that keeps everyone guessing if this is an inside joke of a man of humble beginnings playing a nasty one on the bourgeois who flock in Palais Royal or the jarring string note of a genius quartet that is knowingly swayed by fervent feeling and not impeccable technique.
From the alarming menthol opening of Tubereuse Criminelle to the strangely pleasant unwashed intimates of Muscs Koublaο Khδn, making a stop at the rough bitterness of dark chocolate and patchouli of Borneo 1834, his exclusive range especially is unconsolidated with weird notes of an alchemical nature that result in perfumes of distinct character and astute modernity.
Mandarine Mandarin has the edge smoothed a bit, making it an approachable and wearable exclusive for people who like oriental compositions as a rule.
An intelligent play on words, it alludes to both the succulent fruit with the tart aroma and the Chinese language/dialect of intellectual officials during the great dynasties of Chinese history and still spoken today. And indeed the fruit got its name because it was exploited by those high-ranking government officials in China (mandarins).
The limited edition bottle for Mandarine Mandarin depicts a blue Chinese dragon coiling around the familiar bell jar which is filled with a deeply orange jus. The official notes include Chinese orange, nutmeg, candied mandarin, orange peel, smoky tea, labdanum, tonka bean and ambergris.
It is available from Les Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris or on-line for people residing in Europe.
Mandarine Mandarin, a journey into the phases of a citrus, manages to evoke different stages in a mixed up sequence that defeats linear storytelling going back and forth all the while.
As the vial opens, it smells like scraping nails on the peel of a ripe mandarin, tart juicy aroma, lifelike in much the same way as L’artisan Mandarine tout simplement is, for the first couple of minutes. As you pick the fruit in your hand to unpeel it hungrily though the dark hidden side of it reveals it has spoiled, the particular rot of hesperidia left in a damp cool place for quite some time, matte green turning to grey-white skin smelling ammoniac-laden, almost repulsive. A dry tannic smell that subdues the candied peel which appeared in Le Myrrhe first (allied there to sweet honey, amber, jasmine, sandalwood, bitter almond and lotus, making it a sweet confection rather than the drier ingredient it is inspired of). The ambery depth of Mandarine Mandarin makes its presence known from the start almost and because it is very much an orientalised tale of places closer to the Middle East than the Far Orient the glorious addition of Arabian spices laces the vanillic fruity marmelade that ensues. And when you’re almost ready to think it’s really a play between sweetness and rot, life and death, maturity and old age, there comes the reminder of youth in the form of a radiant orange blossom note. Not wide-eyed innocent, nor inexperienced but with the mellowness of Fleurs d’oranger (notes of orange blossom, white jasmine, Indian tuberose, white rose, citrus peel, hibiscus seeds, cumin, nutmeg) and a whisper of its feminine seductiveness. It’s what remains on the skin poised for hours.
Pic is of the limited edition dragon bell jar courtesy of Autourdeserge.
Aren’t you passionate…
WOOF !
Of all the reviews I’ve read, yours is steamy and making me rethink the necessity of sniffing this.
Lovely prose, my friend.
chayaruchama (
email) - 27 10 06
Hehe, steamy is a nice word! It’s a perfume with an erotic undertone, although at first it appears completely different. It slowly grows on you.
Thanks for the compliment, Chaya. My prose is perhaps giving a glimpse to my personality. What can I do? [flutters eyelashes playfully>
perfumeshrine - 28 10 06
I was apprehensive trying this one out. Now I think I want to get a decant off Ebay of this stuff to see if I could like/love(?)this one. Thanks Helg for such a wonderfully written review.
Armando (
email) - 04 11 06
Nice to see your comment! It is certainly worth sampling and getting a decant, especially if one likes orientalised orange blossom and a sweet base. The fruit on the top dissipates soon enough (although it’s very life-like for that period).
perfumeshrine - 04 11 06
Tomorrow, the 28th, is a national holiday, related to WWII. Time to pause and think how lucky we are to live in relative peace and indulgence, perfume being such a big part of the latter.
Pic is a map by Jan Jannson in 1650 courtesy of eikastikon.gr
“Is it getting better?
Or do you feel the same?
Will it make it easier on you,
now you got someone to blame?”
No, no, I don’t blame anyone. It’s all good anyway.
Dolce & Gabbana have just come out with The One. A floral-oriental that they told us aimed to appeal to a “real diva, an object of desire, like the woman represented by Brazilian top model Gisèle Bündchen as seen through the lens of photographer Jean Baptiste Mondino”. In that regard the perfume is going for sensuality, presence, passion. As Osmoz bombastically states quoting the press release: “Every woman is The Woman: (…) You want her to be unique, ‘the one’: spectacular, joyful, ironic, strong and passionate, and always – indubitably – herself’.
Taking into account that D&G’s leitmotif is of a romantic inclination with interjections of “mama Italia” in Anna Magnani neorealistic style, it doesn’t surprise me that they have been quite successful. Their rich, mature and quite old-fashioned opulence that met with great success was named Pour Femme (codenamed “red cap”; reminds me of a Russian spy code or something in a bad B-movie about the Iron Curtain- practical though). Their smashing best-seller, especially in mediterranean countries, Light Blue turned my own personal lights blue from the ubiquity with which I encounter it on every single female of reproductive age come spring and summer. Sicily, their aldehydic soapiness of a sheer veil is getting discontinued I hear and it’s a pity, if only –as I never “got it”- because I won’t get to watch any longer the glorious b/w TV commercials of Giuseppe Tornatore (click to watch)featuring the succulent tormented beauty of widow Monica Belucci weeping for her dead husband; her old-fashioned slip laced with Sicily taken secretly away by a young admirer.
The rest of the Italian duo’s line includes the dependable virility of Pour Homme, the playfull By permutations (surely not with a sexually charged undercurrent, I hope) and the lighter, younger D&G line with feminine and masculine versions.
A new launch was needed and The One it was. Featuring the long maned Gisèle Bündchen, poster girl of picture-perfect sensuality in westernised standards, it promised to be diva-like. I can front out vouch for its un-diva, completely wearable and friendly character, nevertheless. Maybe the male dominating photographer in the ads is a pre-taste of its submissive character.
“Did I disappoint you?
Or leave a bad taste in your mouth?”
Assuredly not, honey. Just a taste of a déjà -vu. Just that.
Its great flaw, especially for something bearing such a moniker, is a lack of individuality, of uniqueness.
Oh, how I wish it were a case of
“Have you come here for forgiveness?
Have you come to raise the dead?
Have you come here to play Jesus?
To the lepers in your head…”
But it wasn’t meant to be The One to end all others. After all I have found my personal One long, long time ago and I fervently believe that perfumes, like books, like art, like love, choose us and not the other way around.
The bottle is a designing success: very austere and contemporary, a spare squatty affair with a gold geometrical cap to accompany the light gold of the jus inside. Substantial and no nonsense. Luxury without ostentatiousness. The official notes are: Mandarin, bergamot, litchi, peach, jasmine, lily, lily of the valley, plum, vetiver, amber, musk
The opening stage of The One emits tangy sweet fruitness of discernible bergamot and mandarin, accompanied by lactonic interlays of peach, rendering the top very fruity indeed. Lily is the dominating floral force during the middle phase of the journey on skin, with its sweetness balanced by the tartness of the fruits. Jasmine also makes an appearence, but interwoven with the other notes. No vetiver discernible to me in the base however, which is redolent of the nuzzling warmth of a sweet vanillic amber coupled to the softness of a clean slightly powdery musk of average lasting power.
The whole has an uncanny way of reminding me of the very pleasant but not earth-shattering quality of the thankfully slightly drier Cinema by Yves Saint Laurent, launched just 2 years prior to The One. Has short-term memory loss become so prevalent in everyday life that designers and noses are inspired not by legends of the past but by products of such a recent crop?
The One is tarter in the first stages and lacks the almondy flower note, but they then segue on to comparable pathways, a sort of “Elective Affinities” for those who are too fluffy to study Goethe in the first place.
And come to think of it, I prefer Cinema by an inch.
Perhaps as U2 would have said:
“I have kissed honey lips
Felt the healing in her fingertips
It burned like fire
this burning desire.
But I still haven’t found what I’m looking for”.
Nice try though, Dolce & Gabbana. And I mean this?
You can see the whole range here. Bottles of Eau de parfum come in 50 and 75ml versions, there is also a shower gel, deodorant spray and body lotion.
Pic comes from osmoz.com
Come now, dear Helg – you’re being much too nice and objective here! I remember, when I was at school – and I won’t even try to find out the equivalent in another school system – we went to visit Givaudan. Not the perfume section, the aroma section, the onewhich puts the strawberries and lemons into our candies and yoghurts. And they told us the story of the company who tried to introduce an all-natural lemon cake in the United States and flopped, because consumers didn’t recognize the genuine flavour as lemon – they were so used to the artificial flavour. That’s what this reminds me of: super-artificial, day-glo bright, cavity-inducing fruity sweetness, akin to something meant to induce children to love artificial scents and nothing but (since they won’t recognize a natural smell after this anyway). I thought it so cloying I couldn’t even take the scent strip along as I usually do….
dinazad (
email) - 30 10 06
Indeed I am being too objective, if only because I think they were aiming for something decent to begin with (their past shows they do have some good ideas). The fact that they messed it up is probably due to conflicting agendas of Marketing/Sales Research team and Creative department. One going for the fruity, big selling trend, the other going for the light orientalised theme. Seems to me, the name was very unfortunate.
I was disappointed as well…
(cool school BTW, to take you to Givaudan!)
perfumeshrine - 30 10 06
A work colleague bought this for his wife in duty free at Bergen airport (I’ve been in Norway on a research visit). Pretty, but if I was her (at least two leaps of the subjunctive imagination to make there) I’d be after something with more gusto for the winter season.
I discovered said work colleague is a closet fragrance fan though – he has fourteen bottles that strike a pose between butch (Kouros) and 90s insipid (Hugo). I pretended to be all innocent on the fragrance front and listened to him opine about the power of smell (I must be too understated in my spraying)... I’ll come out of the closet with a Lutenesque bang, I think.
Leopoldo - 02 11 06
Really?! Alas, this is not meant to be a classic fragrance. He fell victim to the new and hip (did the Gisele ads have anything to do with it, I wonder).
LOL on your subjunctive projection…
BTW, a Lutensque coming out would be the best one possible, don’t you think? (and since he still has Kouros, there’s some hope he won’t recoil).
Hope you had fun in Norway (isn’t it awfully cold now?)
perfumeshrine - 02 11 06
Less cold than you’d imagine. More wet than you can imagine. Maritime climate par excellence.
Leopoldo (
email) - 03 11 06
I can well imagine the feeling of it perforating the bones…Thanks for letting me know.
perfumeshrine - 03 11 06
Many wishes to those who celebrate it! Be sure to wear something yummy and spicy!
Pic originally uploaded by clevercrow.
Same to you, m’dear !
I’m scarily spicy in Noir Epices today…
chayaruchama (
email) - 31 10 06
Thanks! I opted for Parfum Sacre myself.
perfumeshrine - 31 10 06
Two day’s late, but I’m classily understated in New York. suits the chill in the air.
Leopoldo - 02 11 06
We don’t hurry things around here, so thanks for your comment and yes, it’s lovely in chill.
perfumeshrine - 02 11 06
Lily is an unabashedly feminine blossom; lush, plush, deeply odorous, decadent, inducing a state of surrender.
The shape alone entices you to lean in your nose and inhale deeply closing your eyes.
It would be better to open them, however. Because past the loaded stamens of burgundy red, there is the waxy sight and smooth touch of the petals that is redolent of a woman’s skin.
Isabelle Adjani has such a skin, in the best possible sense. Alabaster or mother of pearl doesn’t begin to describe it. Flawless, pale and surrounded by the darkest frieze of ebony hair, she is a living Poe literary heroine. The romantic ideal exalted.
It is of gorgeous Isabelle that I think upon smelling Un Lys (=a lily) by Serge Lutens of Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris. Part of the exclusive range, after a brief limited time featuring in the line-up that is being shipped to the US, it was composed by nose Chris Sheldrake and is one of the fabulous florals that include the equally captivating A la nuit and the gorgeous Fleurs d’oranger.
Isabelle showed her romantic inclinations in many films; however the innocence of character along with the beauty depicted by Un Lys is best represented by her role in the Werner Herzhog film Nosferatu starring Klaus Kinsky (father of Nastasia Kinsky).
In this remake of the Murnau-directed silent film (which in turn was based on Stoker’s Dracula, but with changed names because of copyright held by Stoker’s widow at the time), Adjani lures in the lovesick vampire into her bed, enticing him until the “terrible dawn” rises and destroys the vampire, who literally dies of love.
Count Orlok, the vampire, was played by the actor Max Shreck in the original Murnau film and his name was borrowed by Tim Burton for the villain in his Batman II (a cinematic homage to German Expressionism visually) ; it figures…
If you still want to explore further, watch Shadow of the Vampire starring John Malkovich and a Willem Dafoe made-up to amazingly resemble the Count of the first film. (I couldn’t believe my eyes!)
Un Lys plays up on notes of lily and vanilla, a light touch that surrounds the petals and makes for lasting power on the skin. Upon opening the bottle the smell that emanates is velvety soft and mostly reminiscent of lilac, as witnessed by many devotees. Of course lilac is not listed as a note; neither does it yield a useful essential oil for perfumery, because the oil rendered does not actually smell like the living thing. Therefore an array of synthetics, such as Apo patchone, Lindenol, Nerol 800/900, Terpineol Extra and Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol are used in substituting for it.
I have no gas chromatographer by my side, nor any conclusive testimony whether one of those ingredients goes into the production of Un Lys, but thought it might be a good idea to list them, as many people swear that they smell lilac when they experience Un Lys.
To me personally it is the slightly musky background, vibrant and fragile at the same time, which captivates me and contributes to my likening it to flawless feminine skin. The sweet backdrop of vanilla is just a touch, enough to make this cherubic.
Un Lys is the dying breath of an angel in heaven and you should encounter it with the proper respect and awe.
Dear Helg-
Didn’t you just nail it…
She, that film, and Un Lys , represent penultimate sensuality of the most languorous sort.
And don’t forget Adele H. !
Years ago, I had the difficult task of choosing only a few SL’s to bring back to the States, and this was one.
It can overwhelm a woman who is insecure in her femininity- the eroticism is so potent.
So glad we both love it !
I’ll bet Dinazad does, too…
She’s my kind of gal.
chayaruchama (
email) - 03 11 06
Chaya, indeed they represent a very feminine, sensuous ideal. A quality that has been mocked of lately with more vulgarised displays. Delicate eroticism and languor is to be treasured.
I am certainly refueling my bottle when it ends. Eager to see what Dinazad has to say
perfumeshrine - 03 11 06
Helg, you hit the nail on the head with the statement “an angel’s dying breath”. I adore Un Lys and have 2 bottles of it, usually 3 but I have already emptied one. I ADORE this fragrance!!
CHAR (
email) - 05 11 06
Thanks Char and welcome!Hope you enjoy the blog.
I adore Un Lys myself obviously and find it cherubic and sensual at the same time. Clearly out of this world…one of the best in SL’s line IMO.
perfumeshrine - 05 11 06
What a lovely review! And here I am – never smelled Un Lys! (sorry, Chaya, my sweet). Oh, I’ll just go off and wail in a corner until my bank account allows me to traipse off to Paris again and DEFINITELY will try it then…... sobs quietly but with great stamina
dinazad (
email) - 06 11 06
Oh dear, no need to go to Paris for that! You can always ask a european friend to do a custom purchase for you. The Palais ships to any addy in Europe.
In the meantime, if you really really want to try it, even I could send you a little sample. Just say the word.
perfumeshrine - 06 11 06
Dear helg,
thank you so much for your romantic ode to Un Lys. Your depiction is breattakingly beautiful.
Yours
lillie
lillie - 06 11 06
Dearest N, thank you so much for your compliment and am very glad you enjoyed the review. Un Lys is so magical it can only elicit the most romantic in me.
perfumeshrine - 06 11 06
Dearest, I am NOT going to shell out the exorbitant prices of the Palais for an unsniffed scent, especially since florals, no matter how ravishing, generally smell better in the bottle than they do on me. And especially in view of the joyous fact that I will be plonking down the plastic for a bottle of Borneo for my yearly pre-Christmas Palais treat (smells of griottes in chocolate on me….) any day now. And buying online is so desperately unsexy. I do prefer to scrimp and save for a regular jaunt to Paris(I live in Switzerland, so that’s quite feasible) and enter the hallowed lilac and purple halls where young men in extremely pristine white shirts don’t talk to you, they waft words in your general direction, and the atmosphere is so rarefied that SAs wear black gloves so they won’t soil the black lacquer of the lipstick cases they present to you for inspection. At least, you get a show for your your troubles (and money) there! But, if I may, I’ll take you up on your offer and beg for a tiny drop of the magical lily to try – so I can play one of the cognoscenti when next I sweep into the fragrance temple! (I’d better get a new hat for the occasion)
dinazad (
email) - 07 11 06
Dinazad, you have mail! And love your talk about the boutique.
perfumeshrine - 07 11 06
Okay, I’m not going to even contemplate competing with all the eloquent comments about this here fragrance, but allow me the luxury of brevity (I am a poet after all, we’re poor and aim for economy in words :D) –
Un Lys is pure sex to olfactory senses. Sigh.
Snarkattack (
email) - 22 11 06
I so agree with you dear G! Thanks for using your poetic gift for commenting on it.
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
Amber is a fit subject to tackle in the colder weather. There are many misunderstandings about amber and hopefully we will dispel some of them here. Amber is a difficult term to describe in perfumery, simply because it has so many meanings. Amber has additionally become a generic term, resulting in us being able to find all types of oils sold as amber oil, when in fact they have no relation to the aroma of amber.
Essentially, there is no such thing as an amber essential oil. Essential oils are oils from plants in their purest form, distilled or otherwise extracted from a single plant species. Fragrant amber is a combination of several different botanical sources (or in ambergris’s case a product of animal origin, more on which later). There is no one plant from which amber comes from, although some claim it comes from a special tree growing in the Himalayas. Fir tree resin, in its regular, non-fossilised form is in fact used in perfumery and offers a rather sweet , warm and deep , sensuous smell that serves as a base to anchor the other ingredients that are placed on top of this less volatile ingredient.
"Amber" is the general term -according to the French system - to describe the perfumes that fall in the oriental group and have a warm , slightly powdery , erotic , animalic tonality in them. This has nothing to do with the actual ingredients, it’s rather a figure of speech, although usually the perfumes of this category do include ambery notes.
Amber oil also comes from the Baltic amber; the fossilized resin from a prehistoric tree called Pinus Succinifera, a pine species. Amber dust is a by-product of the fossil amber industry (which caters for jewels) and the material renders an amber oil through a process called destructive distillation of fossilized amber. The oil yielded contains succinic acid which is useful in health products, however due to its uninviting aroma it’s rather useless in perfumery.
Ambrette seed is another ingredient often mixed up with amber that gives however a musk note in perfumes. Coming from the plant Hibiscus Abelmoschus , the seeds are distilled to give a waxy substance that is then treated with an alkaline medium to give finally the "absolute”. The smell is slightly musky and soft, warm, peachy and snugly; used in many luxury perfumes.
Ambergris is the legendary ingredient often used in relation to amber (as ambra/amber is its short form sometimes, since ambergris in french means “grey amber”). It comes from a cured secretion from sperm whales; the whale secretes a substance to heal its stomach from the scratches of the cuttlefish it swallows when feeding. This gets out much like a cat’s fur ball and is left floating on the ocean for years. The floating part is what gives it its characteristic slightly salty and warm , sensuous smell. It is animalic in a subtle way and retains its scent for centuries, just like musk. The ingredient is rather sticky and gelatinous like, like a fat lump of grey colour at first; while when it dries it becomes harder like a fragile but hard resin. If we are talking about ethically harvested ambergris as opposed to ambergris from slaughtered whales( that goes through a man-made maturing process) it is tremendously rare. It was one of the most prized findings of sailors (there is a mention of it in the seafaring adventure film “Master and Commander: far side of the world”)
Its greatest attribute is its capacity for rendering a composition rounder, especially in oriental perfumes or in floral compositions where it melds the notes into one and brings out their best qualities. It clings on to fabric too, through repeated washings even, becoming ever sweeter with time. Therefore it is prized for its fixative power: the ability to anchor more volatile notes and make them last.
Most commercial perfumes today use a synthetic substitute, because the real thing is so expensive. Dioressence used to use real ambergris back in the day. Eau de Merveilles by Hermes is suppossedly one of the few that contain some raw ambergris , which is usually used in tincture form in perfumery due to its sheer potency. Creed is also insisting that they use real ambergris in their perfumes. Natural perfumers use beach harvested ambergris in some of their more exclusive or bespoke fragrances.
So what actually goes into the production of amber and ambery perfumes, you might ask at this point.
The answer is two-fold.
Natural ingredients are used to create an amber base without actual ambergris, meaning a perfume base that smells warm, erotic and sensual or simply an oil mix.
Usually these are:
1.Labdanum: Cistus labdanum or rockrose is a gum resinoid from the common in the Mediterranean rockrose bush. In the past a long double rake (ladanisterion) was used to comb off the gum from the beards of goats grazing on the bushes, especially in Crete, Greece. It has been used in incense since antiquity. Today the twigs and leaves are boiled to yield the gum. The aroma is the closest thing to real ambergris in the plant kingdom.
2.Benzoin: A secretion of the tree Styrax tonkinense, a tropical asian tree, in the form of tears, which is secreted when the tree is injured. Two varieties exist; Siamese and Sumatran, the former drier and more powdery, the latter sweeter, more caramel like.
Its aroma is sweet and warm and evolves into powdery balsamic.
3.Styrax levant (Liquidamber orientalis): Another resinoid from a tree, it smells a bit like glue with a cinnamon edge. It is important in the creation of amber chords and has a rounding effect.
Mandy Aftel in her book "Essence and Alchemy" suggests a simple amber base made from just three materials for the amateur perfumer: 30 drops of labdanum, 120 drops of benzoin, 6 drops of vanilla.
Usually other accent notes are used in amber chords to differentiate the result and make it unique, ergo the abundance of different amber oils in the market. Some of the usual ingredients to do so are vanilla, tonka bean, Peru balsam (sweet ambers), clove, cinnamon, Tolu balsam, sage, juniper (drier ambers), sandalwood, patchouli, olibanum (mysterious ambers), rose, jasmine or other flower essences in very small amount (more floral ambers).
The big perfume manufacturing companies (not the designers or the cosmetics companies who label their name on them, but those who get the “brief” and go in the lab to create them) have patented their own chemical ambers for use in their perfume creations. It goes without saying that in order to find out what your favourite perfume contains you have to find out which company is responsible for its creation. Those amber bases fall into three categories:
1.True ambers: Those include Ambrarome Absolu by Synarome, Ambrogène by Roure, Ambergrissol by IFF, Ambré B.V. by De Laire and Fixateur 404 added to Grisambrol by Firmenich.
2.Ambers from labdanum: Those include Ambreinol and Ambregris synthetique by Givaudan, Grisambrène by Firmenich, Ambre Synthetique by Naarden.
3.Pseudo amber (which is closer to opopponax really): Those include Ambre 53 by de Laire, Ambreine Samuelsom by Firmenich and Ambrène by R.Sondes.
The issue of amber is a fascinating one and hopefully some of the more obscure aspects of it have thus been lightened. It is important to know what is at the core of a fragrance, however it is our nose and limbic system that finally makes the decision for us. So, wishes for a happy amber hunting!
This article used some data from the archives/catalogues of the perfume companies mentioned, Mandy Aftel’s "Essence and Alchemy", Eden Botanicals and Ayala’s "Smelly blog". Thanks to all.
What an enlightening and though-provoking post. It nicely rounded out what I knew, and what I thought I knew. Thanks Helg.
I have a love hate thing with amber. I can appreciate something pure and direct (l’Artisan) but rarely want to wear it. I admire Ambre Sultan, but find it too heady by itself (and I guess I mean headachy there – I love SLs, but this one does strike me as a base with some strange unrelated stuff going on in the top notes – great with chypre rouge though, as per the delightful Chaya’s advice – love you!). I’m really enjoying Ambre Narguile right now – perfect for cold crisp days, and I guess because the amber is part of the medley, rather than the dominant force. This’ll strike me as way too sweet at some point though, I don’t doubt. I’m also waiting for a sample of Ambre Russe to arrive – this sounds wonderful, although if it dissolves into simply amber, I’ll be disappointed.
So, as you can see, I’m hunting an amber love. Any more suggestions?
It’s funny that actually labdanum, benzoin and styrax are three of my favourite notes…
Leopoldo - 05 11 06
Thanks for your kind words.
Amber is a weird thing for me too. I appreciate it best blended and not straight up.
I had high expectations of Ambre Sultan myself, but found it too sharp for me. Ambre Narguile is more like a dessert than a perfume to me, which is why, although I love it, haven’t purchased it. L’artisan’s was too single-minded.
Have you experimented with I profumi di Firenze “Ambra del Nepal”? I find it really smooth and easy to wear, the easiest so far for me.
Also I have a fondness for the original Obsession for men (and the women’s Sheer) which is mostly amber anyway.
I have recently come to appreciate Fifi, but it’s also the tobacco there that does it magic. However, do try it. It’s not as frilly as it looks!
perfumeshrine - 05 11 06
I’ve read about ambra del Nepal on MUA – where the hell does one get it in Europe? I’m going to refamiliarise myself with your other suggestions…
Leopoldo - 05 11 06
You could mail parfumania.it (their mail is info at parfumania dot it) and ask if they carry it or if they take orders.
It makes me angry that my local chemist’s carries the more obscure Speziali Fiorentini and not this line.
I’d be very interested on your take on Fifi, btw.
perfumeshrine - 05 11 06
Okay… I’ll get a sample of fif in my next order… wherever that might be. and thanks for the tip.
Leopoldo - 06 11 06
You’re very welcome.
perfumeshrine - 06 11 06
The issue of perfume advertisements arises from time to time, with mixed results. Usually it has to do with the shock value of something or the sheer ingenuity of advertisers who come up with catchy phrases and images to embed an idea in our minds for ever. Although print ads have their merits and I will devote entries on them in the future, I think it has been already done so I have been trying to expand into the multimedia world of TV and theater commercials. In the interest of accomplishing that I have compiled a great annex of commercials on my main info site, Perfume Shrine, and it will appear soon on-line (patience!). But first I wanted to discuss the matter here, so the next few entries will be devoted to the analysis of perfume advertising with the provision of commercial clips. I have of course decided to edit and not present all the clips; I just chose the most memorable ones and those which serve the purpose of illustrating my points.
Perfume commercials and their study shows the evolution not only of the deviousness in advertising or the images that capture each generation’s fantasy, but also the emergence of different aesthetic values based on the zeitgeist and the artistic contribution of celebrated individuals in their respective fields. This aspect is fascinating, aggrandizing the subconscious and examining how tastes differ between various cultures. Naturally, the sources of perfume advertising stem from two main sources, the US and Europe, so the contrasting and comparing is in most cases done between the two. Contemplating the schism between the two cultures over years of advertising, one realises that it is not that great after all, at least in this particular field, since people have been influenced by one another. Of course there are also examples of marked differences both in cultural sensitivities and in chronological advancement, especially since the AIDS epidemic which almost eliminated public displays of eroticism in the media, as well as the trend for “clean” perfumes and the newly fanged “celebrity perfume” which influenced advertising on its own by grafting the center of the commercial from the fantastical and fictional to the famous individual who represents a specific association already in the consumer’s mind. Nevertheless, each commercial stands on its own and has its merits and its flaws.
The first series of clips I was interested in exploring was Chanel’s for her iconic
Next comes the classic image provided by the artistry of british director Ridley Scott in 1979. The whole concept is exquisite: the woman is lying on the pool, with a seductive and dreamy voice-over: “I am made of blue sky and golden light and I will feel this way for ever”. The image of the airplane soaring in the blue sky, casting the shadow of a shark in the pool momentarily and then the man across swimming to her, aggresively one might say, while she languorously drinks up the sunshine, bronzed and made-up vividly in red and grey blue, has been embedded to the subconscious of anyone involved in perfume; even Chandler Burr's who used this image for another perfume review recently in his column. This proves the artistry and cunning of the concept. “Share the fantasy” the tagline ends and it is indeed a fantasy that transpires through watching the clip.
The next clip in the chronological series is also made by Ridley Scott, in 1980, who here again uses the elements of the luxuriant vacation spot, the blue waters and the sparseness of composition. All the while the old song “Sea of love” plays in the background. Carole Bouquet, then face of Chanel #5, is decked out in classic austere black, with a wide rim straw hat, also black, and a black one-piece swimsuit. Très chic in her red lipstic, an exclamation point on the white canvas of her skin and an invitation to sexuality. A close-up on her shoes reveals the brand name Chanel, while her white earrings also bear the logo of the brand, so as the viewer never mixes this up with anything else. The setting seems to be a private house in Cote d’Azur or Capri, all Mediterranean colours (of which Scott is very fond of, for those who know). A well suited man comes down a boat (which is odd, but maybe we could bypass it, as it might want to convey an image of authority and financial power) and as Carole leans back her big hat providing an exquisite “cadre” for the shot, they kiss. It’s only at the last shot that we realize that the pool is also shaped in the shape of Chanel #5 bottle. The exact same tagline of “Share the fantasy” (spoken in the french accents of Carole) finds its master in this admirable clip. Watch the clip clicking here
Following is a clip from the French director Luc Besson and eerie, wonderful music by Danny Elfman (Tim Burton’s sidekick, if that tells you anything; this is from the film
The latest commercial for
Next I go on to critique more controversial stuff sure to elicit response. Stay tuned.
Outstanding blog entry today! I loved watching these again and reading your critique. These commercial are masterpieces. The last one cracked me up with its over the top romanticism.
IrisLA (
email) - 06 11 06
excellent entry in an excellent blog for those who love all things perfume
and may I share a bookmark I have on “deciphering” ads
http://lumen.georgetown.edu/projects/pos..
sillage - 06 11 06
Thank you IrisLA , I found them very worthy in their way, all of them. Chanel has really put some thought in their advertising, it’s obvious.
perfumeshrine - 06 11 06
Sillage, thank you. The link you provided gets me to Lacan and Althusser material, so I can safely say I am spoiled. Thanks so much!!
perfumeshrine - 06 11 06
Maybe i should not read your entries… backwards! Thanky for that wonderful critique!
Nina - 06 12 06
You’re very welcome Nina and it’s always a pleasure to see you comment, dear. Glad you enjoyed it! 
perfumeshrine - 06 12 06
In my previous entry I got the ball rolling and discussed the merits and progression of
Proof for that is one of their greatest commercials to date, the classic one for
Next in our discussion of fantasy in terms of perfume advertising comes the controversial and rare gem of
Speaking of using sex as a selling point done in a completely fascinating way can be witnessed in the following
To come full circle, no other than Chanel again for
Next post will tackle the difficult subject of gender play in advertising.
You have to love youtube!
Almost as much as I love that first Egoiste advert, in spite of its portrayal of women as passive-aggressive and men as lotharios…. Or maybe because of it!
Leopoldo - 09 11 06
Indeed Youtube has been a reminder of so many of my favourites over the years (and a couple I hadn’t seen before, which suprised me pleasantly) that I thought lost for ever.
The first Egoiste is both a terrific frag and a masterpiece of a commercial. Indeed it plays on our worst sterotypes and it does so very artfully! Chapeau!
perfumeshrine - 09 11 06
Dear, do you remember the ad for No.5 with the red riding hood taming the wolves? i think it was by Luc Besson…
Adorable..
Thanks for your great article!
Nina - 06 12 06
Nina, dear, thanks for the encouraging words.
As you might have guessed by now, yes, I do remember that greeeeeat Besson ad, which I included in my Chanel#5 ads article.
http://perfumeshrine.fortunecity.com/blo..
perfumeshrine - 06 12 06
The issue of what differentiates female from male idiosyncrasies in general is complicated enough. In perfume terms the composition of different formulas for the two sexes (roughly floral and oriental for the ladies, woody and citrus for the gentlemen) is a fairly recent phenomenon, dating from the dawn of modern perfumery in the end of the 19th century. Up till then, there was pretty much lots of leeway for men to delve in floral waters of the Victorian era or even the rich civet and musk laden compositions of the 18th century decadence. The issue of how male and female attributes translate in the iconography of perfume though is worth investigating for its many surprising facets.
Here today I decided to delve in some perfume commercials that redefine the role of gender as we know it.
The 70s were the years when it was acceptable for the first time after many long years for a woman to appear in pants. Up till then, emulating a man’s wardrobe was considered outré and not to be encouraged. In upscale restaurants and hotels in the 60s, time of the mini, it was customary to ask ladies in pantsuits to remove the pants and just wear the long jackets as dresses. Katherine Hepburn in her signature slacks was repeatedly asked to use the staff hotel stairways when going to see Spencer Tracy some years prior. In that regard, the first ad for perfume that showcased this new freedom was Charlie by Revlon. Codenamed “Cosmo” while being developed, as this was intended for the young and liberated Cosmopolitan readers, that magazine being full of women’s liberation articles back then besides the tips for better sex; it then got named Charlie from the first name of Charles Revson, owner of Revlon. The face of Charlie was Shelley Hack whom you may remember as part of “Charlie’s Angels” TV series, here with Bobby Short. Watch the clip clicking here
Indeed watching the commercial, Shelley dressed in a shiny satiny ensemble of pants and shirt, with a matching little hat on her short bouncy do, it takes a close up to see that it’s actually a female. The fact that she is thin and with no discernible décolletage makes it even more risqué. As she sprays the perfume on her neck while in the car before getting out at her destination we get a glimpse of what an emancipated woman is like; driving, wearing the pants, getting alone to the place she is invited. There is no need for a man to accompany her. She is the man in her life. So recent commercials compared to that seem to tie women to their traditional roles of either homemaking material (pretty, happy) or dangerous fantasy (aggressive seductresses). But that is as much a societal phenomenon as to warrant a separate article of its own on another venue.
Many years later it was advertising provocateur Calvin Klein who brought homosexuality in the mainstream with his memorable commercials. As an aside when talking about the issue, please note that it is males of such a preference who feature prominently in the ads, not women. This may have to do with more homosexual men being involved in the media in the first place (and we all know the designing world is full of them), but it also has to do with the taboo of female homosexuality in advertising as well. For some reason, women in advertisers’ minds should be seen as dynamic, but not butch, aggressive as they are often depicted in the sexual arena, but not manly. I guess it has to do with the male mindframe being deeply disturbed by the idea that a woman renounces the attributes that make him the center of her universe, even though he may renounce those that make him desirable to her! Egotistical though it may sound, men seem flattered if women are concentrating on them. Homoerotic female images are desirable – and intensely so- only if they entail a man eventually and only if the ladies in question outwardly look very stereotypically feminine. To revert to Calvin Klein though, his commercials exploit the homoerotic ideal to the max. A series of commercials for Obsession as well as Eternity used photographer Herb Ritts as the vehicle for an aesthetic that was distinct in an American way.
To witness, these 4 short clips for Eternity for men from the 80s, featuring the exotic Shana Zadhrick as the female presence in an otherwise male territory, which idolize the male physique, sculpted during long hours at the -then- temple: the gym. The droplets of water on rippled flesh, the eroticism of swimmers’ bathing suits, the movement that is resembling diving. Everything speaks of the promise of a different erotic experience.
Watch the clip clicking here
And then of course we have the cheeky ironic representation of Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier. The theme is reprised in a tongue-in-cheek way (as Gaultier takes himself far less seriously than Klein) and the sailor and his uniform, both a nod to a popular homosexual icon and Jean Paul’s favourite matelot top as well, make their appearance in ads that emanate a playful mockery. Le Male the jus is full of the traditional male note of lavender and yet it is so sweet that it has a candy like tone, like only someone who is totally oblivious to rules of propriety is capable of carrying off. In the following commercial Gaultier not only depicts the sexual deviant of a sailor, but dresses a woman in the sailor uniform -shot from behind, walking in what seems a bar full of such sailors- in a transvestite effort in reverse, having her kiss another male, only to reveal that underneath her clothes she is corseted in the traditional attire of her sex from long ago, to match the torso of his eponymous feminine scent, known as Classique. It is important to note that the ad refers to men and the eternal female. Even openly homosexual men have their prejudices about women I guess, or perhaps they have had strong female icons in their environment shaping their views on the subject, as in Gaultier’s case with his grandma. Watch the clip clicking here
In another Jean Paul Gaultier commercial, this time for Classique only, several models sit on a table talking about l’amour (love), differentiating in attire and image as day and night, one of them being the androgynous Eve Salvail, a Canadian model with a tattoo on her shaven head. The old woman suddenly and briefly morphs into Gaultier himself, as if the designer wants to remind us that some part of his grandmother's spirit which inspired the perfume still lives in him. Whatever, Classique is a very feminine scent. Watch the clip clicking here
While at it, you can witness the difference in perception of what is appropriate and what is not in the iconography of these two similar print ads for Paris by YSL, under artistic direction of Tom Ford. The top one is the US version, nipples covered and the effeminate face of the guy cut from the photo, only the cuff hinting at a ménage a trois. In the European version, shown here, however, such niceties do not cut it and the whole deal is laid bare –pun intended- for readers. Pity Paris perfume which used to be viewed as elegant, it now has earned a reputation for racy.
Last but not least, Calvin Klein again plays the gender bender with his masterful commercial "Altered States" (which reminds me of a William Hurt starring film) for both CKone and CKbe. The diaphanous and black bottles respectively are used in brilliant effect for a morphing computer play that emits a weird and truly wonderful vibe that compels the viewer to watch the clip over and over again. I find it seriously cool in its androgyny despite the eerie factor. The limits between the sexes have never been thinner and the interplay between the two is evinced in the unisex jus of the two perfumes which represent two different moods, but never two different sexes. Watch the clip clicking hereThe 90s heralded the cult of the unisex, or euphemistically called shared perfumes and the commercials that played upon this were many and varied. In my opinion this is the most memorable and worth watching one. What the future brings is anyone's guess.
Next post will revert to softer, more romatic notions and the discrepancy between image and smell.
Pics from imagesdesparfums.
I wrote a long comment. It contained a blocked word. i’ve no idea what it was! I changed everything that was remotely risque! what a pity.
Leopoldo - 09 11 06
Oh, that IS a pity and sorry about that. I found that g@y is blocked so used homosexual. Might help?
Mailed u at POL.
perfumeshrine - 09 11 06
Exploring the avenues of perfume advertising, especially in commercials to be viewed on TV, one shapes a particular assumption of how something would smell, coaxed by the imagery and setting of the commercial. Often there is some discrepancy witnessed between what is expected and the actual olfactory experience. Especially so when there are famous faces or egeries involved fronting the perfume.
On a nostalgic trip down memory line, Soir de Paris in a very old commercial, from 1958 to be exact, shows us the rapport between jus and image that existed initially. Soir de Paris by Bourjois is known as Evening in Paris in Anglophone cultures and the olfactory profile is a very refined aldehydic floral that has a touch of the Parisian melancholy and sense of glamour. In its vintage form it stood as a very elegant and lovely representation of everything that joyful Paris evoked in the imagination of countless American women, especially after having seen the classic film "An American in Paris".
Today, the Vermont Country Store is touting its stock of original Soir de Paris and everyone may have a slice of that glorious imagery of French women preparing for a Parisian outing in their strapless gowns and dainty high-heels. Watch the clip clicking here
Those days are over however. Very soon the visual aspect of a commercial went on to a completely different independent track, often creating images that do not correspond to the olfactory response of uncorking a perfume. Case in point is the following commercial for Poison from the mid 80s , when this perfume grenade initially launched to be the object of derision, huge sales and eventually legend. In the commercial a lady dressed in tailored clothes in the purple hues of the perfume’s bottle is sitting head tilted romantically, drapes being drawn as if to signify a new start, a revelation or a concealment.Watch the clip clicking here Suffice to say that the bombastic juice that lurks inside that insidious purple bottle is radically different to what one might think watching those visuals. A potent, venomous elixir of sexual emancipation and witch-like power, it manages to make lovers and haters and nothing in between. Sadly this is hard to find today in a world in which the visual has become significantly more aggressive, while the olfactory has become astoundingly tamer. Contrast the above with the recent black panther commercial for Christian Dior Pure Poison and smell the respective jus and you will know what I mean.
Romantic images however do have a power on their own, corresponding or not to the perfume’s aroma. Such a romantic commercial is one of my personal favourites from the early 90s (around 1990-1992) for LouLou by Cacharel. I have already elaborated on what makes LouLou the perfume so evocative for me, but the advertising has played a major part in this as well, being inspired by Louise Brooks and her Lulu role in Pabst's film. The bluish tones of the film, paired with the insouciance of the young girl who talks to the camera is endearing and makes us view the perfume under the lens of an insouciant, unaffected girlish seduction. Which is not far off the mark of the perfume’s intent.
Watch the clip clicking here
The following commercial for Champs Elysees by Guerlain however is again in contrast to the jus inside. Shot in black and white on the eponymous Parisian street with gorgeous Sophie Marceau as the protagonist who exits a car stopping abruptly taking with her a bouquet of roses and a sac voyage to march off angrily and then self-awardingly on the famous street, it is too cinephile and hinting at a background story.
The effect is greatly augmented because it features one of the songs that would best illustrate an insinuating and dark perfume: Glory B0x by Portishead. The music is so suggestive that it would be great underscoring trully dark, biting frags such as Poivre by Caron or Ambre Sultan by Lutens. The tagline of “life is best when you write the script by yourself” is meant to evoke exactly a cinematic reference and independence. However the jus of Champs Elysees is oblivious to such scheming and trails off in candied blackcurrant buds and mimosas tumbling out of its sunny coloured bottle. Too tame by half...Watch the clip clicking here
To finish this exploration of the correspondence between visual image and perfume composition, two last examples. One is of a commercial capturing the essence of the perfume, that of Sicily by Giuseppe Tornatore featuring the beautiful, expressive as a weeping widow Monica Belluci, an uber-woman if there ever was one. A perfume that is indeed quiet, but not undistinctive; cosy, old fashioned in its way, soapy like the white linen of a neorealistic film’s heroine. It did not manage to be a best-seller, but the connection between what seems to be a very Mediterranean concept and its scent is masterfully accomplished.Watch the clip clicking here And then there is the aggressive luxe of a baroque mansion in which strides stripping all the while the statuesque Charlize Theron for Dior’s J’adore. Although the presentation and imagery is one of opulence, J’adore is no more than a nicely put floral with violet, orchid and rose and scattered fruity touches on top. Certainly not the super exclusive thing alluded to. But a brand of a reputation for luxury and with a couture show to support had to go to extravagant lengths to cement the opulent touch in our minds. And Charlize’s commercial was indeed very successful in that regard. Because who wouldn’t want to emulate her? Watch the clip clicking here
Next post will be really funny, guaranteed!
If serious advertising were not enough, sometimes marketing teams play up on our conceptions about perfume in parody-style, satirizing our wishes for perfume to make us powerful, mysterious, indomitable and just plain old attractive and irresistible to the object of our interest. If only things were that easy. And yet, how many times have the same questions have been asked: what to wear to get attention? What would make the opposite sex melt? What would make us look younger and thinner and 5 inches taller with a mane like a supermodel’s and legs that go for miles? Personally if a perfume were that powerful, I’d just as likely prefer it to vacuum my house and do a good hard rubbing at all those difficult corners, thank you very much. That would greatly put me in a sexy mood, all right.
But it’s fun to contemplate what people would put themselves in denial about and how advertising is playing with that, right?
The angle of sexual attractiveness regardless of exterior attributes (which is, let’s face it, a plain looking person’s wildest dream) is brilliantly exploited in the following AXE commercial. Just see what happens when one rides the elevator. Given AXE’s reputation for potency and its users’ abandon with the sprayer the commercial is down right dangerous, if only because it might encourage stinking up closed spaces with the evil fumes. But funny as hell, nevertheless Watch the clip clicking here
In general AXE has capitalized on witty commercials tongue-in-cheek-style to drive the point of “use more, get more” (yep, that kind of “get”, you've understood it right), aimed at an impressionable adolescent male audience. Even if they laugh, I suspect their Id is getting the message across that this magical juice will help them surpass Porfurio Rubirossa’s fame. Dream on, little ones. You might as well spritz some Egoiste (or if you’re hard for cash some Coty Wild Musk) and be done with it, so much simpler. There's also much to be said about the merits of soap, plain deodorant and oral hygiene. But you already knew that, I hope. After all, if you're a good guy someone somewhere will perceive it, right? No matter how divenly you smell if you're behaving like a jerk, no way will you be popular with the ladies. (say that out loud 5 times before you ask again what cologne is a women's magnet)
And it’s great to see that LYNX, the British equivalent of AXE, has aired a commercial that takes this to the next level with a touch of the absurd and the borderline macabre. The heavy british accent of the voice-over is completely engaging as well. Not to be missed! Watch the clip clicking here
But of course teenage boys aside, the greatest target of perfume as a sexual attractant, a magic amulet of irresistibility are women. Women from all walks of life, all physiques, all cultural levels. Perfume always sold fantasy and women are always a little more susceptible to daydreaming it seems. Whether that’s ingrained or a result of upbringing is debatable (and getting girls girly things certainly makes them impose on them powers beyong their capability). Hey, it doesn’t even have to be in the sexual arena (we have come a long way baby!), but it’s so much more thrilling if it works there as well. In my humble opinion, perfume as a manipulating social weapon is like copulating as a dieting means greatly overrated. It's no accident that human beings have gone from the olfactory to the visual emphasis, after all we don't walk with our noses down the ground and into other creatures' butts all day like dogs, now do we?
We won’t go into the subject of perfumes containing the infamous pheromones, because I have zero experience with them and studies show that the results vary greatly (and can be attributed to self-induced feelings of confidence), however it’s not unheard of people using them to accomplish just that. Which begs the question what would happen if the result wears off or if they run out. But I think they consider it a fait accomplit if the victim has been safely anesthesized by then...They will have found a way to keep it by then or have gotten the chance to show their great personality. This is just theoritising on my part, mind you; not that I reject the right of anyone to use whatever he/she considers best.
In the great spoof I discovered, aired on Mad TV, Antonia Perfume, an otherwise sane woman (and not really unattractive, if you deduct the purposesly silly styling and lisp) has gone bananas over the desire for her perfume to attract and entice men. And it makes the great point that in order for someone to actually be attracted they have to be really close to smell the fumes, wouldn’t they? Which they wouldn’t if there is no other reason for them to get close in the first place. Imagine a woman trying to bumb into the object of her affection in a crowded bar. Many hilarious misunderstandings later and alcoholic shots as well, it might garner some attention. Watch the clip clicking here Unless one is olfactory stalking strangers purposesly offering them their wrists for sniffing ("smell me!"), which would make for another great spoof I guess.
Hope you have enjoyed the perfume advertising section critique and the multimedia clips courtesy of Youtube.com. You can watch many many more in the appendix I have compiled on my info site Perfume Shrine, direct link clicking here. Enjoy!
Next post: perfume review of Ayala Moriel perfumes. Stay tuned!
Pics come from ads in okadi.com
Hi!
The Axe commercial that chronicles how much longer lasting it now is, I think was very creative. And I love MadTV. I loved that clip.
I’ve been enjoying all of your latest entries lately. Very well done.
Have a great evening.
Dawn
Dawn (
email) - 16 11 06
Hi Dawn! Thanks for your comment and your compliment.
Indeed those are the top of the tops I’ve chosen for this entry. Really imaginative and to the point. Mad TV seems like a venue of great wit.
Have a great night/morning yourself dear.
perfumeshrine - 16 11 06
What perfume does a film noir heroine wear? More importantly: what perfume does a film noir cinephile wear? If the twists of plot found in a good noir are you cup of tea (or, in this case, coffee), then Film Noir by Ayala Moriel perfumes might be your hot ticket to a ride of pleasure for the evening. And many more evenings to come, if you are lucky and smart. But let's concentrate on your smarts, pal.
Ayala Moriel is dedicated to the art of natural perfumery, a niche that is witnessing a renaissance lately. Perfume Designer Ayala Moriel creates handcrafted perfumes from 100% precious botanical essences. On her site, she describes Film Noir thus: "This perfume is as dark as a Film Noir plot; as dark as a dim-lit alley in Chinatown and musty as the sewer in The Third Man where the ambivalent heroes and heroines find their inevitable death, over and over again. Film Noir is as dark as the soul of the genre's script writers, directors, actors and viewers. In fact, it is so dark that it includes only the darkest base notes: cruelly luscious dark cacao absolute, musty-sweet patchouli and the mysterious bitterness of myrrh. "
Built around the noble essences of dark-roast coffee and the bitterest Valhrona chocolate they combine with patchouli to render a surprising gourmand that catches the darkest images. If you have sampled the wonder that is Serge Luten's Borneo 1834, then you are already familiar with the weird attraction that such scents produce in the limbic system of the person smelling them. Although the depth is somehow bitter and musty, as if glimpsing the jaws of hell, it manages to also recall memories of cosiness and comfort in woolly seperates on a very cold day. Film Noir might have been inspired by such an olfactory memory and created to pay homage to all those inwardly dark heroines (even if they are blondes) that fester the imagination of screenplayers from the dawn of cinema but only culminated in the 40s and early 50s . The breathy voice of Lauren Bacall in "To have and have not" and her gaze as she takes the matches from Bogart. The intricate plot of "The Maltese Flacon" and the wit of "The Third man". And the great "Chinatown", the noir that summarises all the great traits of the classics without copying any of them. And then the recent greats, even if they break some cardinal rules to accomplish it: "LA Confidential" and "Sin City".
Venomous and razor sharp, the heroines emit a female mystique that leaves you shivering from the iciness and hot and bothered by the promise of fiery sex. But you'd have to sleep with a revolver under your pillow, you never know...
The dark ambery liquid reveals its assets early on, as a drop on the skin is more than enough. It then unfolds the notes with the gusto of a cutthroat assasin draped in a killer tweed suit. They did it oh so glamourously back then! Patchouli lingers in the base making it very lasting. The veil of Faye Dunaway is not raised, not will it be raised ever, the dark glasses remain firmly in place, hiding her gaze. Is it happy, is it sad? is she shedding a tear? We will never know. The mysterious aroma will linger in your memory for ever, like the infamous lines in Roman Polanski's film Chinatown when the secret is revealed between heavy slaps: "She's my daughter. She's my sister".
Film Noir is our dark sister. And the daughter we should be quite worried to have.
You can read about natural perfumery and her creations and get Film Noir by visiting Ayala Moriel perfumes clicking here
Top pic is from Black Dahlia, the movie based on James Ellroy book. Pic of Faye Dunaway by Helmut Newton courtesy of temple.edu
YAHOOO !
My kind of jus !
And to think I’ve been squirreling away a vial of mixed-up Patchouli Leaves [Montale],Vanille Cafe[CSP] and Amour de Cacao[CSP], which I spray ecstatically before bed !
Thanks for the tip, ma semblable, ma soeur…
NOW, to nudge Ayala…
chayaruchama (
email) - 16 11 06
Contente d’etre ta semblable.
I think you would like this one. Ayala’s perfumes have a certain something that differentiates them from mainstream offerings. And she has something to accomodate any taste. She is a darling to talk to as well.
perfumeshrine - 16 11 06
My brain has been yelping for some time that I have to try out Ayala’s ‘fumes. And here you are, adding to the chorus.
I don’t know if I should thank you.
this does sound wondrous.
Leopoldo - 16 11 06
In the words of Walt Whitman:
“I too am not a bit tamed, I too am untranslatable,
I sound my barbaric YAWP over the roofs of the world.”
I think the voices are guiding you in the right direction Leo.
perfumeshrine - 16 11 06
And now you throw Whitman in – aaargh! I will have to try em.
Leopoldo - 17 11 06
You’d better! LOL
perfumeshrine - 17 11 06
You sum up my thoughts exactly. I think I said something on Basenotes similar to your point about the topnotes – if only that touch of overripe decay lasted longer. It’s a horridly beautiful thing.
Leopoldo (
email) - 18 11 06
You know, I think they were a little afraid to go with all out shock and awe! But it sure makes for a less amazing jus than what might have been. Oh well….
perfumeshrine - 19 11 06
Oh, I was so disappointed with Black Orchid. It showed so much possibility in the first few minutes. I loved the top and heart notes and then came the drydown. You pinpointed it (drydown) perfectly – “boring predictability”. What a let down.
Well, maybe someone else will finish what he started and formulate something similar but with a drydown that is as spectacular as the opening of Black Orchid. Ford was definitely onto something.
Dawn
Dawn (
email) - 19 11 06
Dawn, dear, thanks for letting me sample it in the first place. Indeed let’s hope someone does, it did have potential, that’s for sure.
perfumeshrine - 19 11 06
Thank you dear Helg for writing up such a beautifully written piece on my scent. I appreciate your candor and the time to write up on it. As I told you very recently, you writing up on it along with a few requests for samples in the not too distant past has renewed my passion in creating new stuff again. And of course, my needing to make more of this particular scent you had reviewed.
My most sincerest regards,
Armando (creator of Maquiallage)
Armando (
email) - 21 11 06
It was genuinely pretty for me to view it in such a light. Hopefully it will prompt the creativity juices flowing again. I hope to see more of your creations.
perfumeshrine - 21 11 06
Doesn’t this sound inviting !
I love the notes listed, and the ones you refer to, as well.
I’ll have to contact this nice fellow myself…
Thanks, dear girl.
Have a good Thanksgiving !
chayaruchama (
email) - 21 11 06
Please do, Chaya! It is a very likeable effort and quite pretty for lovers of rose powdery scents.
Merry thanksgiving to you!
perfumeshrine - 21 11 06
I’ve been fortunate to sample this fragrance. It is lovely! Thanks, Mando!
Karin - 21 11 06
Lovely to read this here. And Mando such a poppet, it’s great to know that he’s out there making stuff.
Leopoldo (
email) - 21 11 06
Karin, I am so glad we agree. I think we have been in the presence of talent all along. I am very curious what he churns up next!
perfumeshrine - 21 11 06
You know, Leo, he must be shy, because only lately did I discover he had already accomplished a couple of fragrances. I was under the impression he was just mixing oils. But no!
perfumeshrine - 21 11 06
Yes, I have been making stuff for quite a few years here and had for a short time had a little business in perfumery for 1 year about 4 years ago, at least that long ago. I had sold a few scents to coworkers on an old job I had back in Southern California and it was quite fun when I did it back then. But then I got burnt out or I believe I hit what some may call a “scenter’s block” so to speak. I couldn’t think of anything to make that could be remotely what I think would be worthy to produce. I still have a lot to learn in this particular field. I hope this rekindles a love for me here. And I think it has. I’ll let things unfold as they are and hope for the best but always know if it doesn’t work out, “I tried”. I appreciate all the nice words said here and on POL about my scent. Anyone else interested in sampling it, email me here or IM me through Perfume of Life.
Regards,
Armando
Armando Martinez (
email) - 22 11 06
We love you Mando!
Leopoldo - 22 11 06
I am sure lots of people would love to try it, best of luck!
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
Thanks folks for the nice remarks here. (blushing).
I hope this scent starts to fuel my once ol’passion again about perfumery. I love doing it. It’s a soothing and very peaceful thing for me to do. I have my much needed solitary time to do it. No distractions just music in the background and I let my imagination run wild. What else can one ask for when doing something they love?
Armando (
email) - 23 11 06
Eye candy !
Seriously, it’s like being in a museum- sometimes they get it right, and it’s a joy…
Even more so, if the jus corresponds.
That 24 Faubourg is simply breathtaking in its magnificent minimalism, and I do love Baccarat {who doesn’t?].
I’m also an immense fan of all of the beauty which hides itself…
I secretly confess, that’s my favorite of all…
Enjoy your holiday !
chayaruchama (
email) - 22 11 06
They are lovely, aren’t they? The 24 Faubourg one is one of my favs in style. But the jus is also great!
As to the hiding beauty, of course there is beauty hidden; it’s the joy of revealing it that ignites our passions.
BTW, I am not American. Nor am I a native speake
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06
Drools over Nuit d’amour. It’s just as well the juice is not drool-worthy (so I’ve read) because I cannot afford the Baccarat crystal bottle.
IrisLA (
email) - 22 11 06
Oooooh I’m in lust over the 24 Fauborg bottle. Lovely, lovely, lovely.
Next I would pick the Mure Et Musc bottle and then the Caprice de Star.
They would all look wonderful on display in my house.
Have a great day.
Dawn
Dawn (
email) - 22 11 06
Iris, I think it’s lovely to look at (especially the black cameo!)but if the jus isn’t on a par, then it’s not for us. We can still admire it from afar though.
perfumeshrine - 23 11 06
Seems the 24 Faubourg has struck a chord! I do hope, Dawn, you will get something along the lines of the above for your dresser this Christmas! Fingers crossed.
perfumeshrine - 23 11 06
See, this is where my maleness comes through. The bottle is of very limited importance to me. I don’t display any perfumes, partly because of good sense, partly because my lovely partner is a clutter hater, partly because they don’t excite me. I’m trying to think of a favourite bottle, but strangely enough I can’t. I even find the bell jars more cute than elegant.
Help me! The bloke inside is taking over! I’ll soon be limited to wearing Gucci pour homme, Yatagan and Brut…
Leopoldo - 23 11 06
You could do much worse than those, I think and I personally love the Gucci pour homme bottle! (Brut though, as much as I like the scent per se the bottle is another matter }
perfumeshrine - 23 11 06
Well, my dear-
I can’t say that that surprises me…
Want to divulge your origins?
If I send you the wishes- a la Schubert- “Sei mir gegrusst, sei mir gekusst”, surely you follow me…
BTW, I’m 1/2 Alsatian [French, ostensibly, but who knows, really ?], and 1/2 Belorussian- I resemble neither, look thoroughly Italian !
So much for origins…
Now, WHO was the milkman…?
chayaruchama (
email) - 23 11 06
Oh and why does it not surprise you? (I am curious on that).
I come from the land of Homer
perfumeshrine - 23 11 06
Your sensibilities, and way of expressing yourself belies it.
That’s not a bad thing- It’s simply that I’m overly vigilant about everything…well- conditioned, I suppose.
chayaruchama (
email) - 23 11 06
So, now you know.
perfumeshrine - 24 11 06
Hello,
I enjoyed your review. To me, Baghari is very starched linen. I got many compliments when I wore this but I haven’t reached for it much at all.
Cait (
email) - 24 11 06
Thank you for the kind words and welcome to my blog Cait.
It is indeed a clean, preppy smell and I can imagine lots of people complimenting it; it has a pleasing vibe. Curiously though, as I said, I have other scents to fill that void.
perfumeshrine - 25 11 06
Guess who’s gone for the 2ml samples?
Leopoldo - 26 11 06
Someone cute? Goooood.
perfumeshrine - 26 11 06
Hi there!
The ‘Un parfum d’Ailleurs & Fleurs’ is one I really need to try now and my second choice will go to ‘Un parfum des Sens & Bois’.
I’m off to order the samples you spoke of. :)
Your review on these 3 fragrances was as tantalizing as usual.
Have a wonderful day.
Dawn (
email) - 26 11 06
Thank you dear.
They all are sample worthy, I think they have a certain lucidity and sparseness. I also like a sense of stylistic vision in perfume lines, evident in this one.
Hope you find something to enjoy!
perfumeshrine - 26 11 06
I had trouble on their website figuring out if they shipped to the US or not… anyone else know? I do want to order some samples… thanks in advance!
Joanna (
email) - 04 12 06
Hi and welcome to my blog!
They do not specify whether they do ship or not, they have the “pays” (that’s country)left with no resctrictions so I am guessing they do.(I am in Europe, but Dawn above is in the US and has ordered I gather)
However I am sure you can get them at Beautyhabit or later on at Aedes? (they have a sampling program)
Hope that helps.
perfumeshrine - 05 12 06
I never provide a perfume list to anyone – I’ve normally bought what I want already. Though if anyone was feeling in the mood to splash out on me this year I could be forced into suggesting:
Parfumerie Generale’s Coze
Djedi
Bois Oriental
Santal de Mysore
Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman
Blenheim Bouquet
Derby
Equipage
Bel Ami
Coup de Fouet
Narcisse Noir
Vintage Tabaróme (inspired by Chaya..)
so you see, I’ve been contradictory too.
Leopoldo - 27 11 06
You do bring on some classic favourites on this one…hmm….very tempting!! (Vintage Tabarome is glorious!) Well, at any rate, I do wish someone gets some idea of what you’d like and gets you some
perfumeshrine - 28 11 06
I’ll definitely call into the Rosine boutique the next time I’m in Paris (before Spring is over). I always feel a little Anglosaxon scruffy in that haughty hauteur city, though, as much as I love it. i’ll try to brush up nicely, one day.
Leopoldo (
email) - 01 12 06
I think they want to create that scruffy feeling in visitors, Leo, it’s their way of turning up their nose and affirming their significance, but they do open up later on. Don’t forget to try Rose d’homme (rose perfection!) and please report back when you do!
perfumeshrine - 01 12 06
Oh, I’ve got a drop of Rose d’Homme here somewhere… I’ll have to dig it out and sniff. It reminded me of something else very strongly when I first tried it, but I can’t remember what that was.
And now I’m resniffing it and it smells totally different close up to the smell it provides in its sillage. Actually, very rosy, very soft, with a citric/tannic hit. There’s a powdery sandalwood there waiting to come out later, perhaps.
I guess the tip in Paris, Helg, is the same as everywhere – friendly ‘Bonjour’ on arrival, including polite smile and the “I know who I am and what I want” look, floowed by a chirpy ‘Au revoir’ on departure.
Leopoldo (
email) - 01 12 06
Oh! you’ve got it! Well, isn’t it a nice rose? Tannic and woody. I am not a fan of trully clear, old-fashioned powdery roses. This one was great for women too.
You’re so rightregarding trips. The intimidation factor is really nothing to make a fuss about, it’s best if you let it pass you by. Cheers! Bon Voyage!!
perfumeshrine - 01 12 06
Thanks for so kindly helping us publicize this, E. You’ve been a staunch supporter of Natural Perfumery and we really appreciate it.
Anya - 11 12 06
You’re very welcome Anya. I’m an equal opportunity perfumista I guess
Really, people should always delve into the lines and then judge for themselves.
Warm regards!
perfumeshrine - 12 12 06
You make it sound delicious – I’ve always been a massive fan of salty-sweet tastes. They’re often perfection.
That’s two blogs making me need to hunt down Theorema, let alone all the other stuff you mention Helg, you naughty one!
Leopoldo - 06 12 06
It was an unexpected surprise, as I am usually woary of flankers (like sequels, they seem much of a muchness). However it manages to smell intriguing and new, sharing the wonderful ambergris base with the original.
As to Theorema, Leo, it is a sweeter frag in general feel, which belies its given notes (eglantine and shambouti -they smell like orange chocolate in reality) but with restraint and discretion. It is a light gourmand and really well done. Try it before it disappears altogether.
perfumeshrine - 06 12 06
Agreed !
Yes, L, my love, do try !
chayaruchama (
email) - 08 12 06
Chaya, as usual, we are in agreement So L shouldn’t have any doubts.
perfumeshrine - 08 12 06
I recently discovered Elixir des Merveilles. I was so surprised I liked it since I did not care for Eau de Merveilles. It was too bitter on my skin.
I adore Theorema too. I have stockpiled two edp and one parfum of this glorious scent.
IrisLA (
email) - 12 12 06
Iris, Eau de Merveilles is also nice but a completely different animal. It’s a slightly bitter indeed frag for summer for people wo don’t want a sweet fruity or citrusy frag and have no particular luck with vetivers (another summer staple).
Elixir is sweeter and has a powdery thing going on that is very nice with the added salty note.
I wish I had stockpiled Theorema,like you; I only have a little left 
perfumeshrine - 12 12 06
Oh, Helg !
YES !
All my favorite references [excepting, of course, poor Marie O.]...
Try layering this with vintage Tabarome, and you’ll weep…
I have no regret that I purchased the biggie for both of these- and am hoping for a good deal soon on Cypres Musc, which is amazing [ plays well with both of these, to form an inimitable beauty that ignites great interest in others].
Irisia is another beauty, but I’m safe until the Spring- I won’t crave that in the cold.
The Fleur de The is gorgeous as well, but I’ve many tea scents, too many to justify this sort of expense.
I wish I felt this way about all Creeds, but sadly, it ain’t so…
And, unfortunately for the company, I find that their “representatives” don’t know their line very well.
You and I could do in-service, no sweat…
[Isn’t Berger a beauty…reminds me of young Michael York, whom my DH resembled when we first met, 24 years ago, in a blizzard in Harvard Sq….]
God, I used to love viewing ‘The Damned,’ it was always paired with ‘The Devils Of Loudon’, or Marat-Sade !
Loved this post…
chayaruchama (
email) - 08 12 06
Thank you for your piece on Angelique Encens. Angelique Encens is my signature scent. I absolutely adore it. I have been wearing it almost every day since I obtained a decant about 6 months ago. I was so upset last month when my decant had about 3 spritzes left that I asked my husband for an early Christmas present – a bottle of Angelique Encens. We drove up together to Neiman Marcus and went to to the Creed counter and I left with a new bottle of this beauty. By the way, my husband loves Angelique on me and I wear it to bed every night. He loves to take a sniff of it on me before the lights go out.
I’m not sure I have ever smelled this on a man or if I would want to. To me it screams 100% Woman and proud of it. A strong woman that is.
Gosh, I could go on and on about this perfume. I love it. It embodies everything I am and everything I am not.
I’ll leave it at that.
Peace,
Dawn
Dawn (
email) - 08 12 06
Dear Chaya,
who else but you could understand my ideé fixe?
This film has deeper reasonance than expected. Sade will be referenced in another post shortly, so stay tuned…
I haven’t given a thought to combining Tabarome (which is my other favourite from Creed) with this one. I must remedy that and try it! You make it sound so enticing!
Irisia and FDTRB are two others I enjoy from them, but being no big rose fan, I only keep a decant to use from time to time.
Berger does have an ethereal and sensuous at the same time quality about him. I couldn’t picture a more apt Dorian Gray even at gunpoint. And your husband must be a sight.
Now, I must try some Cypres Musc. Musk (and chypre) always makes my ears perk up and this one has eluded me. Would you care to describe it a bit, please?
perfumeshrine - 08 12 06
Dear Dawn,
I am surprised and elated to find out this glorious perfume is your signature! What a great choice and what a discerning and indulging husband. That’s so sweet that you went together to buy it! And that he loves to smell it last thing at night.
Enjoy the precious liquid, it’s a beauty! And from what I know about you I am sure you are just the sort of confident woman to do it justice.
perfumeshrine - 08 12 06
Hello, Helg-
Dawn always wears this, and it makes me feel close to her when I do…
SO glad her DH ‘did the right thing’ regarding AE [unlike that beast that you and Mando and I railed against yesterday]-
About Cypres Musc:
I really didn’t want to love it. Not during the winter.
Cypress, mint, musk- but then, ambergris ! OMG, SO much more substantial than it sounds, with a lovely round greenness, fullness, and it lasts.
To blend it with others, is poetry.
A longtime friend [the only SA I know who’s IFF certified- we’re friends for 30 years!] observed my experiments with pleasure, even though she’s a born critic…
Tabarome w/ CM, Irisia w/ CM- it adds this gorgeous quality that lifts and completes other frags without competing.
On its own, it will make hot climates more tolerable, and I’m surprised that it does well in all seasons; I didn’t expect that.
About my DH-
Poor sod has changed much over the past 24 years [ haven’t we all !], being a Taurus,he loves to eat and is lax regarding exercise, but he still retains his magnificent voice, and soul [5 planets in Aquarius ! I’m his anchor]...
One COULD blame me, because I fed him the night we met-
But I still put in big-time efforts to remain fit.
[I adore beauty, but I’ve been roundly criticized by others because I’m far more interested in all the layers of one’s being- they all think I’m mad, because I see ravishing glory where others don’t see any !]
What a web-hog I am…
Please forgive-
And have a great w/e…
chayaruchama (
email) - 08 12 06
Dear,
thanks for the recount of your Creed experiences. I will seek it out and sniff it and do the combinations you talk of. I am so glad you have found a proper SA with the knowledge to back it up.
As to your husband, if you are together for so many years, he must doing something right! Like you, I like to see the entity of a person’s being, not just the superficial, even though I like beauty as well. Sometimes beauty comes fro all sort of different things and directions.
Be well and it’s always a pleasure to hear from you, you do not hog the web, not at all!
Have a great weekend, you too!
perfumeshrine - 08 12 06
Dear, since YOU sent me a sample of it i have been intrigued and i am constantly searching for sources on the web as i used it up very quickly.
Am i the only one to feel a slight resemblance to L’Heure Bleue (which is muskier, of course whereas AE is ambery)?
Thank you for the post and i always indulge in your cinematic effectuations. Have a good weekend!
Nina - 08 12 06
I could rhapsodise over the magical journey of AE, or the marvels of Visconti, but I’ll stop right there because everyone’s already read my mind and I’m busy fretting over something totally non-scent related…
Magnificent post; wonderful replies.
btw – M and I met 16 years’ ago. It’s still true love.
Leopoldo - 08 12 06
Nina,
I am so glad you liked the post and the scent. I thought you might, as it is a great vanillic amber with various other elements thrown in. Overjoyed that you loved it.
There is some vague resemblence to L’Heure Bleue; however that is more aniseed-like and melancholic. It’s the heliotrope note that ruins it for me (sigh)
If we ever get to split a bottle you and I are in the count
perfumeshrine - 08 12 06
Thank you for the compliment Leo and of course we only attract the best crowd, I believe! (so witty replies are to be expected)
One of the things we attract here is trully loyal people as well. I am very happy for you and M.
perfumeshrine - 08 12 06
Is that copper-colored, the decoration?
OOOOH ! What a flask….
So lovely…and in spite of myself, I do like a bit of L’Instant now and then.
I could be tempted…but ought not, as recent purchases will attest [I think I could be embalmed for several lifetimes over,wink, wink].
Thank you, sweet one.
chayaruchama (
email) - 09 12 06
Yes, Chaya, I believe this is copper coloured although I haven’t seen it live yet.
L’instant is a nice enough scent, if a little too sweet in EDP. And judging by the Elixir in #5 and Velevet Sheer, the gel-parfum is catching on (which might be a nice trend).
LOL about the embalming!! (a true sign of perfumista)
Be well!
perfumeshrine - 09 12 06
Thank you for the info on L’Instant – which i love very much, I am truly intrigued by the new form (i find Sensual Elixir to be the best for m of No.5 ) and i think this one goes straight forward to be put my Christmas wishlist.
The bottle looks so gorgeous!
Nina - 12 12 06
Hope you find it to your satisfaction, Nina. L’instant is a likeable perfume, if a little too sweet for me in the EDP. Hopefully this will be more restrained. Report back if you do try it!
perfumeshrine - 12 12 06
Honestly Helg I am not really looking forward to any of the upcoming 2007 releases. I’m shocked about the 650 that are released every year in these last few years. And how interesting that the average life-span of a commercial perfume is about 5 years. You make a good point about the novelty value. I too get caught up in it. So, I am rebelling baby! I don’t want to be a manipulated sheep. lol. I need to learn to appreciate the beautiful fragrances I already own. I could happily wear Angelique Encens for the rest of my life.
Back to your point of novelty-value. Here in America I call it Instant Gratification. I’m not knocking my culture but you are right, people everywhere are idolising the novelty-value and we are always on to the next best thing without even giving the first best thing a try. It’s a vicious cycle.
While reading your list, the only 2 that fragrances that even piqued my interest were Madonna (hopefully) and the Lancome Benghal.
I was super creeped out by the Marilyn Manson fragrance. Will have to wait it out and see what people think of that one. What exactly do children smell like Mr. Manson?
Have a wonderful day.
Dawn
Dawn (
email) - 11 12 06
Dawn, I am in solidarity with you here.
Better, not more.
Helg, thank you again, for all the “homework” you do for us…
[Yes, Angelique Encens is nothing to sneeze at, I love it too- wore it yesterday, and thought of you !]
Be well and happy, ladies…
chayaruchama (
email) - 11 12 06
Dawn, dear, you put it very eloquently: “I need to learn to appreciate the beautiful fragrances I already own. I could happily wear Angelique Encens for the rest of my life.”
Sometimes in the whirlwind of change and keeping up with the trends we bypass the gems of our collection and ir’s a shame. Especially when they are as lovely as AE.
I am not sure on Madonna’s frag; on the one hand she is an avid fan of perfume as witnessed by her massive collection, on the other hand, perfume business is set to sell and sometimes that ruins it a bit…We’ll see, I guess.
As to Manson, maybe he said it jokingly, as if the perfume would smell like procreation or the sweet smell of babies, but either way, the quote does not stand too well…hmmm…
Be well, dear!
perfumeshrine - 11 12 06
You’re welcome, Chaya.
“Better, not more” you said: the motto of any self-respecting art or business. They should have that emblazoned over their desks when they come up with “ideas”.
perfumeshrine - 11 12 06
Personally, I would be interested in the Astrolabe by Caron (promising concept) Belle en Rykiel (which comes for the kind of house I like) and the Bottega Venneta one since it’s to be created by Olivia Giacobetti. I am also holding out for the Givenchy classics relaunch and possibly the Coty classics relaunch (no conclusive info yet, details on previous post)
perfumeshrine - 11 12 06
Hi helg, nice post. Glad you used a pic from Angelique Houtkamp, I was happy to have acquainted people with her work and website on my blog back in November.
I love Madonna, so I’m looking forward to her scent. Hopefully it won’t be musky.
Mary
Mary (
email) - 11 12 06
Hi again Helg. Hi Chaya.
I just typed up a nice long comment and it disappeared into cyberspace.
I wonder what drives us/people to want to run out and try the latest and greatest new fragrance(s)? I get caught up in it myself at times. Thankfully most of the releases this year were not full bottle worthy. I think I purchased a total of 12 perfumes this year and over half have been out for awhile and are niche, ie: Serge Lutens, L’Artisan.
Scent is such a part of my life though. It really can affect my mood. Whatever fragrance I may wear for the day, usually articulates beautifully how I am feeling inside. I always find that interesting. A lot of people cannot relate to that at all, except for us perfume people. :)
Chaya what you said, “Better – not More” is right on.
Take care ladies and have a scentful Monday.
Dawn
Dawn (
email) - 11 12 06
Mary, thanks for the inspiration. I liked her work and the blind girl image fitted the blind purchase thing admirably. ergo…
Always nice to hear from you.
perfumeshrine - 11 12 06
Dawn,
you know it IS an interesting question and I couldn’t agree more with you on the perfume as mood enhancer device. Sometimes, people want to get the latest so they don’t seem stuck up in a time rut or something, but I swear perfume is not the way to do it. It’s too precious to be discarded like that when the new trend comes along.
Or maybe people are not really 100% satisfied with what they already know, thinking there might be something even greater lurking somewhere and they are on an endless quest. The latter happens to perfume loving people as well, from what I hear.
perfumeshrine - 11 12 06
Today is cold and gloomy. And despite all odds, I feel elated, "a little warm in my heart when I think of winter". The meteorologists have predicted the first snow around the area I live in. Although I know I probably won't see any, as I'd have to drive quite a bit to escape the smog that prevents snow to fall, just the thought of the silent, white blanket craddling our hopes and yearnings is enough to make me dream.
Winter has always been a favourite time for me for reasons beyond logic. It's an instinctive preference, formed at a very early age. As my mother, firm in her belief that children should brace the cold so as to become sturdy (and I did), took me for a stroll as a toddler in bitter cold along the pier, seeing the angry stormy petrol-green sea splash furiously, the wind on my flushed little face, steel skies towering over me, my hands in woolen mittens, candied apples consumed, I felt happy and strangely at home. That was who I am. The joy of returning to a warm house augmented the pleasure already experienced, to be greeted by an adoring father.
Although I am not the person who becomes overjoyed in Christmas for reasons already discussed (much more prefer the Orthodox Easter which is a vastly more mystical and sensual -tied to pagan- celebration in my mind) , winter never fails to make me feel like I was when my feet couldn't touch the ground when I sat on the very armchair I am now sitting cuddling with a good book.
And so perfume should follow. Hence a little list of things that bring to my mind all the joys of winter, of love, of "white horses gone ahead".
Quotes and the title come from the lyrics of the trully great, moving song "Winter" by Tori Amos which you can listen to by clicking on the window above (courtesy of Rasberryswirl on Youtube). You can read the lyrics here.
Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens
Who else but Serge and Shledrake could come up with a vanilla that is comforting, rich, smooth, deeply woody and never tacky? Vanilla is such an ubiquitous smell, really, which makes it hard to do properly. This is grown up, but with a wink to our childish aspirations.
L by Lolita Lempicka
I had bought a bottle in summer and reviewed it , when it first launched here, but didn't open it for months, relying on samples. Now is the proper time to take the plunge and crack my beautiful bottle open. To me, this is the perfect dark vanilla, with the inclusion of immortelle that adds a salty kiss on warmed skin. Created by Maurice Roucel, responsible for Poison, Musc Ravageur, Farenheit, L'instant andInsolence
Must by Cartier
Best in pure parfum, Must smoulders and entices, unfolding siren notes of civet and amber anchoring narcissus and mandarin. The unexpected green note of the start has a loose-mouthed effect on the rest of the formula. It highlights it, the way the best conversationalists inspire interest by an unwonted beginning.
Fifi by Fifi Chachnil
From a french lingerie company, this is lacy knickers in dusty antique rose to wear between fluffy blankets, your hair in loose curls. Sweet blond tobacco and citrus notes clash and couple adoringly, a little soapy element with a swoosh of powder, much like Boudoir by Vivien Westwood is constructed, with copious references to the milkiness of Luten's Fumerie Turque. It has a complex character, lighter than Anne Pliska, that was surprising to me and it is definitely complimended by cold weather, as it smells nothing like it should in the heat (hence my delayed appreciation for it).
Thankfully that's one perfume that smells actually better in eau de parfum than parfum/extrait. So, it's also economical!
Muschio e Ambra by L'erbolario
This little italian company makes great products of skincare and perfume and has the most nostalgic labels imaginable; they all seem like they have come out of a paintings index. Muschio e ambra tranlsates as musk and amber and has the delightful smell of aged patchouli and slightly bitter fir resin that stays on your skin for hours on end in the eau de parfum.
24 Faubourg by Hermès
Because after all the orientals one associates with winter, one would want a rich floral to lift the spirits and immerse oneself in their delicacy. This is like the queen of elegance and it veers on floriental. Rich orange blossom on a smooth amber base, sweet but not sacharine. Imagine yourself draped in thick silk and powdered to perfection, your lips painted in a becoming auburn shade to compliment the dark colouring of the juice. Another Maurice Roucel creation. This is the very elegant, classy projection of a lady. Go for the eau de parfum in winter.
Gucci EDP I by Gucci
A nostalgia for great perfumes of the past makes for this thyme, cumin, orange blossom and heliotrope-laced composition that is anchored by vanilla and orris. It smells the way grand dames smelled, but has some air of modernity in there as well, making it a very urban offering for a lady with a hidden side. It proved not to be a big seller for the house, which could be good news (you'll be more unique wearing it) or bad (it will at some point get discontinued), depending on your outlook in life; as with everything else.
Schizm by Ayala Moriel Perfumes
You have probably guessed by now that Ayala's natural perfumes have made an impression on me. Besides her very wintery Fκte d'Hiver her more complex, chypré Schizm is exactly what its name alludes to; the duality of woman: it starts peppery and sharp to segue onto floral notes of which the narcottic tuberose prevails, all bedded down in a country road near a forest, leaves trampled underfoot a campfire smelled at the distance. The official notes are: Black pepper, Cedarwood, Mandarin, Tuberose, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Oakmoss, Musk notes, Incense
Angel by Thierry Mugler
I am talking about the body cream and not the eau de parfum here. Big vats of nasty chemicals are what many people perceive and yes, I can see why. I am doubtful it contains even one natural ingredient in there. And I know, most of you have either a love-it or hate-it relationship with it, because of its mothballs rolled in toxix caspirene-coumarin aroma of choco-caramel and patchouli. Just try a smidgeon of the body cream. It's all one needs...
Douce Amère by Serge Lutens
Bittersweet, more bitter at first, less so after a while, weird like glue, it transports the soul. A mix of cool and warm, it interpolates various moods, that crystallise in one absinthe-liquor prepared the original way, with vanillic sugar on the spoon and everything.
If one is melancholic but not really sad, this compliments the mood admirably in the colder season.
Pink Sugar by Aquolina
What a glorious candy fair smell that reverts us to childhood all over again? The mega-blast of intense tooth cavity giving sweetness is very intense, so what better time to use just a small bit in the dead of winter? Not to be taken seriously. Caress the inner child!
Essence of John Galliano by Diptyque
The complete antithesis of the above mentioned Pink Sugar, for good measure and to prove the schizophrenic tendencies of Perfume Shrine. Not a proper perfume but a room spray that also comes in a candle. Upon spraying the association with tar and birch is overwhelming, so I suggest decanting in a dab bottle to use on one's hands. (it needs a little distance from your face) Dark, deep smokey incense paired with guaiacwood, evoking mustiness and darkness, serenity and centering all in one, rich like Avignon by Comme des Garcons, but with less of a warm feeling, much in the manner of Etro's Messe de Minuit, albeit more wearable.
Tell me what your winter fragrances are!
Helg, thank you for the emotional picture.
Take a peek here:http://perfumum.blogspot.com/
No need to say more…
Nina - 12 12 06
Oh, Nina, you like it! And we never even discussed it. It’s one of my favourites!
I trully believe winter is an emotional time. But then what time is not emotional for someone so inclined?
perfumeshrine - 12 12 06
You’ve made me crave Douce Amère which I haven’t sniffed for over a year. I’ll have to get some. My decant of Un Bois Vanille has taken a funny turn for the worse and now smells of celery – and I’ve NEVER got that from a SL scent beofre (one of the few I think…).
I’m most wearing / sniffing
Avignon
Burberry London (your fault)
Vetiver Oriental
Boucheron Jaipur
Chergui
and a splash of Arabie once in a while
I want to be wearing Parfumerie Generale’s Cozé, but haven’t got round to a bottle yet…
Leopoldo - 12 12 06
Aw, am I glad for directing you to both DA and BL!
I was planning on including Arabie on a men’s list, actually. Not that I believe in the segregation per se, but it’s nice for symmetry.
Great choices, btw!
Be well
perfumeshrine - 12 12 06
Of the ones you mentioned, I like Un Bois Vanille and Douce Amere for winter comfort scents. In fact, these two layer well together. I like 24 Faubourg as a year-roundb7c61d elegant fragrance.
IrisLA (
email) - 12 12 06
Iris, DA and UBV are very nice, aren’t they? I haven’t tried layering but I will give it a try, thanks for the sugestion.
24 Faubourg is trully classy and I can’t see it being wrong on any season. It’s just that it’s rich and so can witshstand the cold. I would also put Bellodgia in that category, especially in EDP and parfum.
perfumeshrine - 13 12 06
What a great list! I am renowned for my full lips – whether they are languorous, I leave to your imagination…
I can see why many love XS Black – too youthful for me to wear though (and there’s an aromachemical in it that tickles the back of my throat, like burning sugar). London, Antaeus, Habit rouge, VE – I concur. I need to resniff Obsession – it’s been years.
I have to say the puerile teenager in me sniggered at the post title. Apologies!
Leopoldo (
email) - 14 12 06
Gorgeous selection, dear Helg! And it takes a man very much at home in his masculinity to wear some of them. Or very excentric. Preferably both. Habit Rouge for instance, man’s Shalimar, makes me think of sharp-tongued, witty Oscar Wilde heroes, or of Lord Bath, all red brocade smoking jacket, wild white hair and beard, apple cheeks, safari park and unbound laughter. Decadent and over the top. And at the same time I get weird urges to melt against a guy’s (not any guy’s) chest and have a lusty intermezzo. Or two. Four-poster bed, brocade bed curtains, laces and other such trimmings would be nice, but if he wears HR, I’ll do without, thank you very much!
And since I’m still at work, I don’t really want to imagine what am man wearing Arabie would make me think of. That would be a seriously sexy guy (I’ve yet to meet one who has the guts).
Now to go smell the Obsession….
dinazad (
email) - 14 12 06
XS Black has a weird effect: synthetic notes that mighle however to produce an earthy and fruity smell. It is a youthful smell, though, I can see that.
I can’t speak highly enough of Obsession men. It is much better than the women’s version and you only need a little bit.
LOL about the sniggering part. It’s a sensual song I find.
perfumeshrine - 14 12 06
Thank you dear J.
I very much like your visual about those who would wear Habit Rouge! Brava! It is a cuddly, soft scent and with lots of powder, which is unusual for a men’s scent.
A guy in Arabie would be trully exotic and deserves a full description at some point…
I strongly suggest you find a sample of Obsession men’s and try it on skin. It’s so warm, so deep, so passionate, it has the effect I talked about.
perfumeshrine - 14 12 06
I admire Gwen Stefani’s fashion sense; I like her music too. I’ll be interested in testing her new scent, and I’m hoping I like it.
Mary (
email) - 16 12 06
Hi dear Mary!
You know, I’d really like to believe that she will actively participate in the creative process. I don’t know if she will; hopefully that won’t be improbable. Judging by her taste in scent it might actually turn out to be something good!
Like I said, no verdict till I sniff.
perfumeshrine - 16 12 06
I’m always impressed by whole deftly and lightly you use your wisdom, most sagacious scented one.
The bottle’s pretty, but didn’t give me the same va va vooms! as that highly charged, overly erotic moss photo. Yowzah!
Leopoldo - 18 12 06
