Must-smells : are there any?

The notion of what is a must-smell and what is not is perhaps a little subjective. After all, what I deem worthy is perhaps not worthy to you. Although it does not have to do with likes/dislikes, rather the breakthrough or -on the other hand- classicism of a given creation, it is still a little difficult to accomplish, because if we try to keep it short, there comes into the play the process of elimination. The task is like eliminating Gaugin over Van Gogh, or Rubens over Rembrant. Although the mastery of the grand masters is not to be compared with an art form that uses questionable techniques and materials lately to accomplish the aim, however there are cases when those afore-mentioned masters experimented with urine to cut paint and with lesser subjects such as cabaret dance, which yet produced amazing results. 

Francis Kurkdjian in an article in french in the Glamour France edition goes on to reveal which perfumes he regards as must-smells for anyone interested in perfume.
Mr Kurkdjian as you may already know is the famous, innovative and very talented nose behind Gaultier Le Male, Gaultier², Dior's Eau Noire, Davidoff's Silver Shadow, Armani Mania for Men... and one of the most successful fragrances in its category of last few years: Narciso Rodriguez for her (together with Christine Nagel).  He was also single-handedly responsible for one of the most lovely Boutique Exclusives for Guerlain in recent years, Rose Barbare, a scent to receive accolades and which won me by its sheer beauty.
 
He suggests the follow fragrances as absolute "must-smells" (for women): 

1. 1000 by Jean Patou. 
2. Must de Cartier. 
3. Paloma Picasso. 
4. Eau de Rochas for Women. 
5. Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès
6. N°5 in parfum/extract by Chanel. 
7. Shalimar by Guerlain. 
8. Eternity by Calvin Klein. 
9. Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel. 
10. Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens.

The list does have its merits in encompassing major tendencies and traditions in perfume making : 2 Chanels, 1 Guerlain, 3 classic prestigious houses, 1 infamous modern niche, 1 from a jewel house, 1 from a famous designer, 1 from a "celebrity" (although referring to her like that might be sacrilege, since Paloma is a quite creative woman, but she bears a historic name all the same).

If we are thinking along perfume families, there are 2 citrus, 3 orientals, 1 chypre, 3 florals (one woody, one classic aldehydic and one spicy) and 1 floriental/fruity/patchouli melange. ( I really don't know how to classify Coco Mademoiselle).
On the whole it is a little unusual. Makes one think...
No Caron in there? No vintage Diors? Two Chanels, yet one of them is the very modern Mademoiselle, which despite her gorgeous physique is a bottle-blonde (or whatever bottle-colour)? Not some of the more avant-garde offerings from -say- Comme des Garcons or Olivia Giacobetti for L'artisan?
And in those Guerlains, Shalimar reigns supreme, the "Casablanca" of perfumery, the classic to top all classics. Which of course is a little confusing, bearing in mind that the formula has changed a bit down the road. Mind you, though, not the innovation of Mitsouko nor Jicky, nor the wistfulness of L'heure bleue.

I think I see mr. Kurkdjian's point, even if I do not agree with all his choices.

So, have you thought about what you deem as absolute must-smells for perfume lovers?

Pic is Around the bend of memory by Isolano/flickr

four comments

I miss-like you- one that I absolutely insist on: Chypre by Coty. Vintage of course. How to judge any chypre with having sniffed the original. And then: Jicky. These two are must’s…no way around them.
Andy - 05 09 06

I am so glad to see it struck a chord with you, Andy.
Yes, I think it’s of paramount importance to get to know the precursors of any category/trend before experiencing the offspring, to better judge the technical merit and expansion on the subject those later ones can then bring.

I also detected a lack of a great “leather”, like say Cuir de Russie. Paloma with its rich castoreum is more animalic, so the list is a bit wanting in that respect too.

Difficult task, all the same, and I do wonder what would be your 10 must-sniffs (OK, your 8 , since you already mention 2)
perfumeshrine - 06 09 06

Ooh, I don’t know that my nose is experienced enough to pick 10! I do love to read others’ lists though :D
Snarkattack - 22 11 06

Personal lists have their own merit sometimes. Please share yours if you want to!
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06

War of the Worlds: naturals vs synthetics

The first half of my title today, which alludes to the famous H.G.Wells novel, is perhaps implying polemics of a greater magnitude. Still, it is hardly a small-scale issue.
Over the last decade a shocking realization dawned in the minds of most people. Ours was a polluted world, a world of decay and man-made confusion. A world in which Man had distanced himself from Nature.
The 90’s saw a growing concern about the environment, animal rights, the resources still available and the reversion to a way of life that would be purer and cleaner. Organic food, fair trade and a return to traditional techniques entered our vocabularies and our lives. Perfume was just one part of the equation that would go with the flow.
Or would it?

Perfumes of yore have been changing their formulae over the past 2 decades at least (in many cases many more) substituting ingredients of a dubious origin with newer ones, usually of a synthetic nature.
The use of synthetic molecules is nothing new, of course. Jicky was the precursor of the modern perfume with its use of not one, but three synthetics (linalool, isolated from rosewood for the first time; coumarin isolated from the tonka bean; and vanillin of course) in 1889. Its success brought about the modernization of perfume as an art form and a new era dawned. Chanel #5 was the other great classic to make use of the aldehydic aroma-chemical family. In some cases it was necessity on the creative side  that prompted the innovation brought by certain chemical molecules; gardenia or lily of the valley scents have to be created some other way, because the flower does not yield a satisfactory essence for perfumery. Milk is a note recreated in lactone, because it seemed like a nice, ground breaking idea at some point to include such a note in a composition.

Cut into today. The scarcity of certain ingredients, such as natural ambergris for example or the soon to be depleted natural sandalwood from India, as well as the ethical questions raised concerning the use of others still, such as the deer musk secretion and that of natural civet, have been only one of the factors that directed a new approach. The new guidelines of the European Union/IFRA and of the FDA dictated a substitution of ingredients which would pose a risk of allergic reactions or toxicity. Oakmoss is among them. So is birch tar and coumarin. Reasons of stability, longevity, unlimited possibilities and consistency also come into play for companies.
The issue is complex and companies rarely admit to the change for their own reasons, giving a rise to angered voices complaining of a cheapening of the formula (voices which are not always that educated themselves, I am afraid).

New launches have been proportionately bigger in synthetic ingredients than natural ones, of course. There are even perfumes composed entirely of synthetic ingredients, prompting Chandler Burr in his Synthetic No.5 article in the New York Times (Face, Aug.27) to hint that one very popular perfume is made so and the company is not letting him reveal the name because of the huge prejudice against synthetics in consumers’ minds.
Although I agree with his points made before that, namely that synthetics are expensive as well (sometimes even more so than naturals) and that the notion that natural equates safe while synthetic equates dangerous is not entirely true, I have to point out that this might explain the ignorance of an average consumer, but it does not stand up to a perfume lover’s scrutiny. And this is what Perfume Shrine is always striving to accomplish completely independently and non-strings-attached.

“Creating a perfume without them [synthetics] is like painting a picture without blues or reds. You could do it, but why?” mr.Burr quips.
Personally I find this irrational. The spectrum is composed of 7 colours in the visible end, which would make us think that therefore synthetics amount to 2/7 of the total of possible smells. And yet, there are thousands of smells not yet experienced. A never ending journey into the compounds that make up our world and the worlds farther off in the cosmos. The human nose knows no boundaries in this quest. So it would be a little presumptuous to declare that synthetics, man-made substances, have the ability to encompass almost 30% of all smells. Not to mention that the simile reminds me of the vibrational theory....because maybe that's just me.

The following quote is also a bit over the edge to me: “every great scent, from Armani to Gaultier to Lauren, is built on them [synthetics]”.
Not to dwell on the fact that the afore-mentioned houses have not produced that many great scents (because that might be just my personal opinion), but to imply that only the use of synthetics accounts for the production of a great scent rules out centuries of masterpieces that have been maybe lost on us.

There is another prejudice, I am afraid; that one is on the part of perfume experts and non-experts alike regarding natural perfumers. Some aromatherapists started blending simple perfumes from essential oils about a decade or so back. Those of course were not proper perfumes but alloys for the enhancement of an experience in a spa or  meditation. Then, Mandy Aftel wrote Essence and Alchemy which spawned the interest in natural perfumes. Natural perfumers are not aromatherapists, who use aromas for their beneficial use on the mind and body. They just like the aesthetics of natural ingredients and have a greater appreciation of nature’s complexity. They use concretes and absolutes that aromatherapists don't use, not to mention that they study classical perfume structure. Seems pretty valid to me. The main objection of perfume experts has always been that it would be difficult to manipulate natural essences, because they can be multi-nuanced and changing from batch to batch, and to coax them to comply with the given objective in the creative process. Natural perfumery has only got to prove that it can and the proof would be in the pudding, so to speak.

To cut a long story short, the issue is not easily resolved and there should be no aphorism uttered about either naturals or synthetics in my mind.
In the interests of keeping things on a balance however I have embarked on the appreciation of certain natural perfumes, three of which produced by Anya’s Garden I will go on to review shortly. So stay tuned!

Pic is from the controversial Girbaud campaign and since we are intent on the controversial, it seemed fitting ;-)

four comments

this is my first visit to your blog and my second comment. i like your blog and your words. see you again:)
vivien - 08 09 06

Wanted to add, for reasons of factual accuracy:

Dr.Turin stepped in on a thread on POL forum to rectify a misconception or two (and I quote):

“a) Synthetics are extraordinarily cheap fine chemicals: the price range of aromachemicals is from $5 to $400 with most clustered around 15-40 (all per kilo). The $400/kg are very few in number (Muscone and Javanol come to mind) and used only in small amts because they are powerful or have a unique effect.

b) There is no direct relation between the price of a synthetic and its olfactory quality. The price of a synthetic is dictated by ease of synthesis and scale of production, which respectively depend on the vagaries of organic chemistry and on demand. Different grades of a synthetic may smell different to be sure, but the variations in price between grades are small (factor of 2).”
perfumeshrine - 17 10 06

I actually thought obtaining natural musk is illegal worldwide?

I’ve got no qualms about synthetic substitutes especially if it’s to keep our animal friends safe :)
Snarkattack - 22 11 06

I agree about the animalic ingredients, but those are only 4 actually (musk, civet ambergris and civet) and one of them (ambergris) does not even harm the animal, since its excreted freely and floats on the ocean (it’s dreadfully rare and costly though and that’s why it isn’t used usually).
The case definitely has to do with synthetics replacing other natural costly ingredients, not a desire to protect our animal friends unfortunately.
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06

Anya's Garden perfumes: Fairchild and more

Natural ingredients from flowers, seeds, fruits, roots, woods and  in some cases from the sea and cruelty-free animal products combine their forces in the perfumes composed by Anya Mc Coy, a former landscape architect and urban designer and now creative head and owner of Anya's Garden Perfumes.
Anya’s name is not an oxymoron as she uses the real deal, ingredients with a firm grip in nature. She has been dabbling with natural essences for a long time and after years of training in the French methods of perfumery and lots of experimentation she has created 3 unique and original hand-made scents: Pan, Fairchild and Riverside.

The perfumes all come in Eau de parfum concentration, which means that they are quite lasting and at the prices of natural ingredients what they are they are good value for money, I’d say.
One main difference is that they are not intrusive, there is no big sillage like department store frags, nor is there the initial sting of the top notes the latter produce upon initial spray.
Anya’s perfumes also take on many nuances, sometimes changing with the weather in their expansion/volume, not regarding temperature as much as humidity in the atmosphere. The explanation of that has to do with the core of the craft iteself, as Anya explains in her introductory page.

Let’s see them up close one by one…

Fairchild:

Named after the homonymous Tropical Botanic Garden at Coral Gables in Florida, this is a lush and challenging fragrance for anyone seeking something different.
The initial hesperidic, tart top with some “kick” is completely mesmerising. The opening "peppery" note comes from pandanus, rarely used in perfumery per Anya, taking one on a flight to unknown shores and buried pirate treasures.
The salty marine note to come next is miles away from the aluminum-canned variety that is zombie-ing its way in all those Aqua di Gios (all full of calone and dihydromercenol) in Sephora aisles, devouring millions of unsuspecting youths who were sadly never given a chance to know better.

Perhaps due to the completely new to me Choya Nakh (a smoky essence coming from toasted/roasted seashells, no less, crushed into sandalwood) and because of ambergris tincture as well (which acts as fixative) the composition makes me think of a summer holiday by the beach; white hard rock and turquoise; wet hair clinging possessively on warm skin; tropical flowers caught into the thorny shell of a sea urchin, its deep orange flesh sprinkled with citrus having been eaten raw and discarded by hungry child-divers, bare feet with dead seaweed stuck on soles; nails scraping on a juicy mandarin.
The big jasmine heart of not one but three varieties, coming from the bush emanating its fragrant sweet heat when the dusk sets, has a tart smell along with the opulence resting on an animalic base.
On the whole it has the challenging and weird character that Caron’s Alpona, that citrusy juice-drinking in the open crisp air of the countryside, also possesses. Here trodden upon leaves and roots on the floor of a cut-down tree alley along the shore substitute the French countryside.
The inclusion of crushed, dried hedychium root is also a novel element that I have never come across in another perfume. The root is supposed to be  very aromatic with a somewhat pungent smell similar to the extremely costly and delicate orris root, but even more powerful. Galangal root also makes an appearance with its magical properties, which I will let you get to know by yourself...

A very, very interesting perfume. Would love to wear this.

Official Notes: Pimento berry, ambergris,  champaca gold and white, Choya Nakh, Clementine, galangal root, green oakmoss, hedycium root, jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, orange peel wax, pandanus, pink grapefruit, seaweed focus, ylang ylang
Anya's description: fiercely floral, narcotic, hot, oceanic, rootsy

To see the range of perfumes click here.

To get samples to try her intriguing perfumes or contact Anya click here

Next post will be about Pan.

Pic is Dune by Isolano/Flickr

seven comments

Helg, what a beautiful review! The way you wrote about Anya’s Fairchild really conjured up the scent for me. This one and Pan are marvellous – I can’t wait to read what you have to say about Pan. It’s easier to wear in my opinion, while Fairchild is really complex and unusual. The pandanus and citrus and animalic notes really pulsate with tremendous amount of energy that is almost overwhelming!
Ayala ( email) - 11 09 06

Marvelous review. I could almost smell this just reading it. I will have to explore Anya’s website. Thank you.
JenT ( email) - 11 09 06

Ayala,

thank you for the compliment. I am glad it was vivid for you. Indeed it is a wonderful, complex perfume and it is my favourite from the bunch, I think. It’s challengng and completely original.
perfumeshrine - 12 09 06

Jen,

thanks. It is worth exploring, I can tell you that! Good luck.
perfumeshrine - 12 09 06

beauty without ugliness is boring. For instance, grown-up versions of the kitty poster are the paintings of fire-lit cottages strung with wisteria that you see in malls.cheap perfume is more abstract than figurative painting. Still, the idea of creating beauty through imperfection is valid as ever.
cheap perfume ( email) - 28 09 06

You have a gift my dear. It’s impossible to read your reviews without wanting to try the fragrances you so eloquently conjure.
Snarkattack - 22 11 06

Oh, miss G, thanks so much *blushing…..
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06

Flowers by a brook

The title brings to mind the English translation of Caron’s legendary Fleurs de Rocaille. And yet, today we are not going to discuss that one. Instead, Riverside by Anya’s Garden. It is so gratifying to come across a perfume which has an element of the old-fashioned tradition of bygones: true, natural floral essences, rendered by techniques that have gone missing in recent perfumes.

A very floral, more traditional composition that doesn’t jar anyone’s perceptions like Fairchild or Pan does.
It starts on a rosy aspect with lots of geranium and not the familiar old-fashioned intense powderiness of many a rose fragrance, combined with orange blossom/neroli voiceovers that lend some delightful fruity harmonies (actually they’re from blossoms whose smell- although very floral- also brings to mind the fruit to come).

Orange blossom absolute and neroli both come from the flowers, but different methods of extraction render a separate product that has a different smell.
True neroli is distilled from only the blossoms of the Bitter Orange "citrus aurantium" whereas Orange Blossom can come from any orange tree and is more generic. Citrus aurantium is the genus known as Seville bitter orange, the “pig of perfumery” (since it yields so many ingredients)
Petitgrain is also distilled from the leaves of the Bitter Orange, this one from the leaves. (On the other hand, orange oil is cold-pressed from the skins of the fruit of any orange variety and differs slightly among types.)
The water left after the distillation of neroli or orange flower is called a hydrosol. These floral waters are often sold as gentle facial toners/refreshing mists and could be even used in cooking for their soft aroma.

Neroli in particular bears a name imbued in history. By the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, duchess of Bracciano and princess of Nerola , introduced the essence of bitter orange tree by using it to perfume her gloves (which was customary at the time, to get rid of the tannin smell of skins, ergo the gantiers later became parfumeurs ) and her bath, thus inaugurating the trend for such smells; later it became the floral core of the classic eau de Cologne.
Neroli has a refreshing and distinctive, delicately spicy aroma with sweet and flowery notes and is one of my favourite uplifting, happy notes in any perfume that it graces with its presence.

Curiously in Riverside the neroli does not make its presence felt at once, upon application, like I am used to (it being a volatile ingredient). I get whiffs of it and of a green lemon-y note like that in O de Lancτme in the midst of other petals unfolding endlessly.
The smell of Turkish rose otto , which is a very costly and precious ingredient is also making its appearance, but sadly I am in no position to fully appreciate it, because rose is not one of the flowers I am taken with. Quality however always shows and this is no exception.
The drydown is creamy and hazy with an unidentified element that is not my personal favourite; honeyed and very sweet to me, , very complex in smell, with elements of bitterness interwined with the sweetness although the beauty of the natural flower essences is undoubted. However if one waits for another couple of hours there is still one more element to come to the fore, which is completely beautiful; a powdery, caramel soft base that lingers and lingers.

Official Notes: pink peppercorn, Turkish rose otto, neroli EO and abs, Jasmine auriculatum, rose geranium, citrus leaf bouquet, orange flower water, musk seed, vanilla, Vanuatu sandalwood, beeswax, tonka
Anya's Description: rosy floral, citrus, peppery, vanilla, fondant

If you want to see the whole range, click here

To contact Anya or order samples, click here

Pic is Upsidedown by Isolano/flickr

four comments

I had almost forgotten that there was a blog attached to your site – I just went back and read everything from the beginning. I really like your review style, and all the wonderful stories you tell, as well as the art and poetry. I will not be forgetting about you again!
Flora - 18 09 06

Your encouraging words are very kind, Flora.
Indeed many people only know the site and not the blog. Hopefully the latter will be enjoyable and helpful as well.
Thanks and hope to see you here again.
perfumeshrine - 18 09 06

this sounds so up my alley! Turkish rose otto…and neroli! how wonderful!
Snarkattack ( email) - 22 11 06

Anya uses top quality ingredients and in floral fragrances that is a must!
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06

Bright Crystal chandeliers at the house of Versace

Versace is a designer brand imbued in glamorous baroque images, often over the top, Napoletano insieme Milanese. If one doesn’t know the difference between North and South in Italian culture I guess this is hard to grasp, but suffice to say that anyone in the south aspires to be accepted by northern circles.
Gianni and his family were born in southern Reggio in Calabria, the picturesque corner that produces the best bergamot in the world. His fate, a glorious albeit tragic one, was punctuated by excess, style and fervor for classical antiquity that was manifested by the use of meanders and medusae in his opulent, colourful flamboyance.
His life ended alas abruptly; murdered in Miami in 1997, this was a roman tragedy. Donatella, his sister, is carrying on the torch. Or so they say. Personally I think there is something missing in there and one of the sectors that is not especially fulfilling in their impressive industry is the perfume-producing one. And not just lately.

In the plethora of their offerings they cater for men, women and children alike, yet the real gems are few and far between. The really innovative, escapist The Dreamer, created by nose Jean-Pierre Béthouart, is standing proudly alone in the universe of men’s fragrances, fresh and warm simultaneously, with its eerie cocoa and gunpowder accord, of all things! Completely unique and very worth getting.
Blonde, created by nose Natalie Feisthauer -homage to legendary Fracas- is a tuberose typhoon that could whip the most insolent person into submission; glorious in parfum. The Jeans series in all its colourful permutations (Red, Blue, Green, Yellow, Black, White, Metal) is not to be taken seriously per their press releases and they are all fun perfumes indeed, but nothing more I’m afraid.
Lately they have reverted to their all powerful advertising, replete with hints of a ménage a trois, through Crystal Noir, an alloy of amber and gardenia (Donatella’s favourite blossom); a floriental that accomplishes the feat of topping a small bottle Atlas-style with a dark, heavy “rock” hardly capable of balancing on it, shown below.

And here is the latest blurb on the newest product, Bright Crystal: a feminine perfume as a flanker perhaps to their Crystal Noir, but only in the presentation:

“Versace introduce Bright Crystal, a fresh, vibrant and floral fragrance, with delicate tastes of colourful and juicy pomegranate grains, lotus flowers and the enticing presence of plant amber, acajou and musk. A perfect scent for the Versace woman who is a hybrid of strength and confidence yet feminine, sensual and always glamorous.” Official notes: pomegranate, iced accord, yuzu, magnolia, peony, lotus flowers, plant amber, acajou and musk.

The bottle is indeed very pretty, if a little precarious to hold. Faceted crystal like huge quartz or an aspiring to be diamond, it corresponds to its name really well. It is girly and glamorous to the max, meant to be displayed on a flamboyant dresser. “None of the apothecary style and austere designs for us, thank you”, ms.Donatella seems to be saying, flicking her ultra blonde mane to the wind, glossed lip and tanned skin aplenty.

Reading the notes, I was surprised to see a discrepancy between them and what my nose actually smelled. “Delicate tastes of colourful and juicy pomegranate grains”? Are we supposed to taste the jus? And what’s up with the pomegranate? Jo Malone used it in her likeable Pomegranate Noir and Demeter too and suddenly it became the latest trend? I am a little confused, since what I smell upon application is mostly grapefruit with its admittedly succulent aroma or at least a member of the hesperidic family (yuzu). An opening of tart, fruity freshness that is very pleasing to me, echoing the same deceptiveness displayed by Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermθs (although this one goes in different paths from there on) or the more straightforward assertiveness of In Love again  and the syrupy-sweet of Baby Doll, both by Yves Saint Laurent . Recent studies have shown that women who wear grapefruit-laden perfumes are perceived to be younger than they really are and I don’t know if it is done on purpose, but the growing number of fragrances for women which feature that particular note points to that direction. This is not a bad thing smell-wise. It does make for a déja-vu, however.

I was also surprised in noticing that the familiar watery floral note of lotus and the other florals are very subdued and not making a grand appearance like I expected by the description. It is as if the floral heart rushes through to give way to the base elements. It segues into soft woody notes and clean, feminine “white musk”: the overall feel is nothing like the exotic acajou and plant amber they have been touting, if only because I never knew they were able to extract essences from a tree mostly known for its homonymous hair-dye colour and its nut. Oh lΰ lΰ, maybe I am being mean here. Poor lab technicians have broken their backs trying to come up with a new molecule for that one! As to plant amber…is there any other variety? I think we all have been educated on that score, already.
The lasting power leaves something to be wished for, because the volatile top notes which account for the fresh impression are very soon gone and the base ingredients do not have enough tenacity. Expect a couple of hours at most, it then needs re-applying, although on the blotter it stays on a little longer.

Mind you, the overall effect of this new perfume is not displeasing; it will not offend, on the contrary it will be nice, young, uplifting. Ladies who love pretty and young things like Gucci Eau De Parfum II in the pink square bottle, In Love Again and the like will be adding this to their wish lists for Christmas possibly.
But where is the innovation, the surprise, the rush of something different? I will settle for the Versace ties and foulards myself.

Pics courtesy of Escentual.

two comments

Dear Helg-
I’ve enjoyed your posts for quite awhile…

I, too weary of big names that cannot back up their efforts.
It’s painfully reminiscent of all those amazingly over-educated folk who can’t manage to tie their own shoes, but are replete with doctorates galore…

Everyone may mess up periodically, but , bottom line-
SHOW US THE JUICE !!!

I am not a petty soul. I don’t think you are, either.

Perhaps they are convinced of the quality of their offerings?
Or, perhaps, they pander to what they perceive is a taste for mediocrity?

Damned if I know…

Be well, and thanks for your candor!
chayaruchama ( email) - 18 09 06

I agree with you that the juice is much more importan than presentation. Did you know that only about 2-3% of the budget of commercial mainstream perfumes goes into the cost of the actual juice? That’s something to ponder…
As to taste for mediocrity, I wouldn’t go as far, taken into account that most of the insipid ones go out of production soon enough. But then, so do lots of the very interesting ones…..It’s a complex issue: what the masses want and appreciate.
perfumeshrine - 20 09 06

What is chic perfume-wise?

The human brain needs small incentive to go on a day dreaming track when provoked. A casual question on a perfume forum made me think about what constitutes chic in perfume. The unanimous response reigning supreme was  Chanel #19, a scent I personally love and consider very chic indeed. Other chypres also featured prominently. However the issue deserves pondering on and not just writing it off with a few predictable recommendations.
Antisthenes, the famous Greek philosopher, has a saying attributed to him, by which I have abided all my life: roughly translated, the beginning of wisdom lies in exploring meanings. So what is chic? I have thought about that, first of all.

People have different definitions: some consider chic equals “confidence, timelessness...fragrances that are effortlessly stylish”, others say that it “means fashionable, to be sure, but also stylish in a kind of lean 'n' mean, insolent, provocative way” and cites models of a certain designer house as examples.
Ayala, a perfumer herself, had this to offer: “timelessly stylish (as opposed to the passing fashion-du-jour). There must be something about it just a little bit cool or aloof in a way - as if there is no real attachment to the scent (or the fashion item), and they are just used as a tool...”

Luca Turin addressed the issue in a humorous way in The Emperor of Scent: “Chic is first when you don’t have to prove you have money, either because you have lots, so it doesn’t matter or because you don’t have and it doesn’t matter. Chic is not aspirational. Chic is the most impossible thing to define. Luxury is a humorless thing, largely and when humor happens in luxury it happens involuntarily. Chic is all about humor. Which means chic is about intelligence. And there has to be oddness –most luxury is conformist and chic cannot be. Chic must be polite and not incommode others, but within that it can be as weird as it wants.”
By that same token, Madame Clouzot, sister to film director Henri-Georges Clouzot, in talking about French perfumery she deemed only two houses as really great French perfumers. She then ascribed Guerlain to cocottes (=kept women), while Caron was for duchesses (proper, proper chic). What the French consider chic nowadays is “a sort of kept-woman vulgarity”, luxury that shows. So I do find myself simpatico with that opinion expressed above.

Many times women’s glossy magazines, fashion editors and coffee table books devoted to style do spreads with images alluding to the following ladies: Jackie Kennedy-Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly - and Katherine Hepburn if the editor is having a good day...More subversive personalities, like Diane Vreeland or D.Furstenberg, are considered exceptions that consolidate the rule. In that light, chic at some point deteriorated to certain "style-icons" of Western perception and scope.
A pearl necklace, a camel coat and black leather pumps look. You know what I mean. Timeless, classic, a little preppy. (I am having a difficult time imagining in those terms what would be chic in India, for instance, if one takes into consideration clothes’ tradition and climatic differences) But what was it that equated chic with that look? Is this chic? Not if a hundred women out there go out and copy it; because isn't chic supposed to be sophisticated? And what is so sophisticated and individual in following in the footsteps of someone else, someone as well known as the style icons just mentioned? I mean, everyone would expect it. Hmmmm......

 In the interests of objectivity I searched the term online too.

The Free Dictionary had this to offer:
adj. chic•er, chic•est
1. Conforming to the current fashion; stylish: chic clothes; a chic boutique.
2. Adopting or setting current fashions and styles; sophisticated: chic, well-dressed young executives. See Synonyms at fashionable.
noun
1. The quality or state of being stylish; fashionableness.
2. Sophistication in dress and manner; elegance.

By that definition, chic has a stylish air, a contemporary element (not something obsolete) and yet possesses elegance aplenty.
Also there is this definition by Wikipedia: “means stylish or smart, as reflected in styles of fashion such as heroin chic or boho-chic”. This leaves much more leeway, though, for almost anything.

So what are the perfumes that personify all the elements of chic? What is elegant, contemporary, sophisticated, non aspirational, confident, insouciant, and humourous?
Maybe it can be better defined by what is not in that league.

Too much luxury has an effect of “blinding” the sensory receptors, registering as bordering on show-off. Cascades of costly ingredients, rich velvet feel, gold tinged nuances: all that points to the direction that the wearer wants to be perceived as wearing a rich perfume (why that would be desirable, enough to make it to a beauty magazine such as Allure with the corresponding views of Frédéric Malle -the head of “ Éditions de parfums”- in the article "How to smell discreetly rich", is perhaps the theme of another article).   What could be included in this super-luxe category? Obviously the Clive Christian and Amouage perfumes, which are so costly they surely stand as the olfactory equivalent of a Hèrmes Birkin bag -in crocodile skin, no less; costs as much as a small car and has a waiting list of at least two years. I’d rather give my money to charity, thank you.

Unfortunately, although not as pretentious, there are other perfumes, lovely, gorgeous perfumes that bring to mind lush plush and starched banknotes: Joy, Shalimar, Boucheron femme and homme, 24 Faubourg. They don’t smell un-chic. But they do smell conformist, like someone who wants others to know he/she has good taste. Alas many orientals suffer from this affliction.

Too much sexuality is also anathema to chic, not because very sexual beings are not chic per se (they can be, as proven by some ), but because advertising one’s sexuality with perfume might border on the desperate. So hairy-chested, virile, traditional male aftershaves that purport their attractant properties like Kouros, pheromonic experiments and perfumes that have the dubious fame of resembling odorata sexualis (such as Musc Ravageur, Boudoir, Shocking, Obsession or Ambre Sultan  to name but a few) bring to mind catcalls to carnality and cannot be seen as insouciant. Sorry…They do serve their other purposes admirably, though.

Too much experimentation on the other hand, that avant garde that is so prevalent among niche brands with unusual synthetic ingredients that mimic everyday objects of sometimes even an unpleasant nature, are also removed from the elegant part of the equation. Comme des garηons is a prime candidate, although I love their Incense series.

Obsolete creations that have withstood a myriad incarnations or bring on the reminiscence of another era can also be excluded. They do attach themselves to ageist jokes of a cruel nature and this is sadly to their detriment as well as to the joker’s. I am afraid Quelques Fleurs suffers from this fate, along with certain old lavenders, such as Yardley English Lavender. It’s not a fault of the perfume; it’s just that they seem far-away and not intended for a major revival.

And there is no need for me to elaborate on why fragrances that smell too much like food do not have associations with chic, now is there?

So what does that leave? I find iris scents and non invasive chypres chic. Some aldehydics can be too, if they don't conform too much. Even some select orientals could, if one wears Opium the way I do: very casually. Yes, Chanel #19 is very chic, exactly because it never shows off and is never more or less than a lady. Miss Dior is also playfully audacious and naughty under the effluvium of floral notes. Rive Gauche vintage is so coldly steely it can cut a swath in a room and make everyone wonder without ever becoming bothersome. Bois des iles is wonderfully composed to sit equally well on men and women, in formal or informal attire. Tauer’s L’air du desert worn by a discerning male could be very chic. Defiant. Mitsouko in all its veiled mystery can be chic, simply because it never elicits the instant recognition compliments and is sexual in a most intriguing, never obvious way. Guerlain Vetiver is always chic; dicreet but individual. Alpona or Jicky on a man could be all those things as well. I would like to put Madame Rochas in its older incarnation in this league, along with  modern ones like Voleur de roses, Timbuktu, Fumerie Turque, Tubereuse Criminelle and Iris Poudre. Possibly there are others too.

Does perfume play such a major part in grafting chic-ness onto an individual? Is that even possible? I don’t know for certain. All I know is that chic needs humour. So maybe even the least expected perfume can be viewed as chic on a person who has the wit to make it his/her own.

Pics from top: Palopa Picasso by Helmut Newton 1973 courtesy of temple.edu, Grace Kelly courtesy of Silverscreensirens, Obsession originally uploaded by Theresa Duncan, Rive Gauche pic by Perfumeforyou.com.

two comments

Dear Helg-

I love the workings of your mind.
I echo your sentiments.
chayaruchama ( email) - 26 09 06

Well, I do like to make it work,if I say so myself. It’s the results I am not so sure of, LOL.
Glad you liked the article, it’s a funny little problem.
perfumeshrine - 27 09 06

Autumn is upon us...

Times of misty mysticism, times of veiled dew, cloudy, foreboding skies and falling decaying leaves. A few of the things that rapture my heart and that of the ancients. Autumn in all its glory is finally here; the autumnal equinox marks its official start.
In an increasingly warm climate that perpetuates summer temperatures up to mid-October, this day is more of an astronomical than factual beginning, yet it brings the anticipation of mud and must, of crisp mornings and evenings by the fireplace, of damp boots dragged in from the rain, of hot black tea sipped after the storm.

Choosing perfumes fit for autumn is always a task that brings joy in the heart of every perfume-lover, I think, if only because if one is such, then surely one yearns for a bit more backbone than the usual summer fare provides. Away with the insipid and the watery, in with the robust and hearty.

Along those lines here are my personal feminine favourites for this autumn, about a dozen for our purposes (I am saving some to mention come winter):

Mitsouko by Guerlain
The quintessential rainy perfume. Earthiness meets sensuality. Surely the theme of another separate post, real soon.

Femme by Rochas
Woman as dessert! The inclusion of cumin in the latest re-orchestration by Olivier Cresp is in my opinion a stroke of genius, peach and prune compote dusted with cinnamon, sweaty arms of an oestrogen-rich body carrying tray after tray for the delectation of savouring men.

Rykiel woman-not for men, by Sonia Rykiel
When one is a truly provocative woman, one goes to Rykiel boutique in Paris and purchases the accompanying lingerie and props for SM adventures à deux. When one wants to just hint at such playfulness, one can resort to this perfume, musky florals, biting quinoline, bronze studded cap and your whip or mine?

Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez
How can someone produce such an enchanting perfume of softest musk and sheerest patchouli overtones? How can such a mix smell womanly and alluring? How can all this magic be created with synthetic ingredients? The conundrum of Narciso is fit for all seasons, in my preferable concentration which is the eau de toilette, but autumn should not be deprived of it.

Boucheron femme by Boucheron
Orange blossom exalted, benzoin, olibanum and sandal woven into velvet cloth, majestic proportions of a roman basilica. Rich jewels on the crown of Theodora at the Hippodrome the geese of the past notwithstanding. Sublime.

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain
Poetic voyages of a writer into unknown lands, a perfume that defies classification bearing characteristics of oriental, green and chypre families. Worth moving earth and sky to find.

Angélique Encens by Creed
Hidden behind an incense and amber veil, nursed in the arms of vanillic warmth, jolted into reality by the sharpness of angelica, this Marlen Dietrich commission to Creed is the equivalent of a “result” dress worn by someone who has inner tranquility and a zen mentality. Wear it and prowl.

Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez
Immortalised in the screenplay of Twilight, this somber grandioso composition melds citrus notes into jasmine and orris footed by animalic and resinous notes, like walking out in the grounds of a monastery that hides a dark secret.

Chanel #19 by Chanel
Elegance when peppered with audacity produces such extraordinary examples as this classic. Although it can accompany any season wonderfully, autumn seems like a natural for its iris, cedar and vetiver bouquet, especially in eau de toilette, which is my preferred concentration. The parfum is monumental.

Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens
The den that is a Balkan smoking shop; cognac, milk and tobacco notes which become surprisingly cuddly and sweet on skin. A caress rather than a slap by heavy patriarchal hands. It has been a good day at the market, you see.

154 by Jo Malone
Woody notes lend themselves naturally to autumn. Jo Malone’s creation smells masculine, woody and lovely. All the more reason for a woman to choose this for herself; differentiation from the hoi polloi never hurt anyone.  From a spicy citrus top to the lavender heart right to the sandalwood and vetiver base, this is a recent coup de foudre which provides a base for cerebral gallivanting.

Innocent by Thierry Mugler
This enticing, gourmand stuff is anything but innocent, with its croquant heart of sugared almonds and caramel base that differentiates itself just enough from its big brother Angel to pass as something else (given the latter’s extreme popularity), but is equally stunning.

And Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
The regal crown of the collection. Escape and perdition. Addiction and elation. The eternal beginning of an intimate affair throughout autumn and winter. Dying in the first warm days of spring. Till we meet again.

Well, thirteen…As many as the disciples plus Jesus. Not a bad number.

Stay tuned for my male favourites for autumn.

Top pic is by Samantha Everton, courtesy of NewYorker mag. Rykiel woman pic from Escentual. Vol de Nuit pic courtesy of Parfum de Pub. Serge Lutens pic from autourdeserge.

four comments

Dear, i love your pointed characterizations and the bewitching images you invoke!
Autumn is my potion and you are the sorceress…
lillie - 09 10 06

Me being a sorceress is quite an enchanting idea to me and I should rethink my career maybe
I do thank you for your great compliment and hope you enjoy my musings here.
perfumeshrine - 09 10 06

“Poetic voyages of a writer into unknown lands” you say of Vol de Nuit – definitely the case for this aspiring poetess!
Snarkattack - 22 11 06

Your safe journey is guaranteed on the wings of your musical talent for rhythm and harmony. Vol de Nuit might just make the soaring higher…..
perfumeshrine - 22 11 06

Scent of a man: the autumn list

Men constantly ask what they should wear perfume-wise to attract the opposite sex.
If one needs to ask, then one is on the wrong track altogether and should just drop the issue, crossing his fingers that his wit is on a par with the female in question and praying his charm is evident regardless. But for our purposes, let’s see what I’d like to smell on a man in the cooler autumn months. Not just any man, though…Perfume is all very well and dandy, but it’s not what cuts it in the end.
There are some things I am keeping from mentioning just yet, because they are for even colder weather. For now, these are for your delectation, discerning males.

Black by Bvlgari
Weird (well,not so much…) and wonderful. The rubber tires of a speedy  Mercedes E-class swiftly eating asphalt in metropolitan zones , black lapsang souchong tea and vanillic warmth of a hug. Angelina Jolie’s favourite and I can see why. Deserves a separate review at some point.

Dzing by L’artisan parfumeur
An unpopular choice among the innovative L’artisan line, by genius Olivia Giacobetti, originally called Désir de Cirque. Sawdust, cardboard, some leather and turpentine, sweet pungent musks; a must-smell. Close to Black, but weirder. The latter smells relatively tame besides this. For lion tamers, aspiring ones and to be grabbed before they discontinue it.

Voleur de roses by L’artisan parfumeur
What is it that makes roses smell so much better on men? Arabian cultures have cottoned on to the fact and are not hesitant to reap the rewards. I find them so cliché on women, it’s not even funny. Here married to the murky patchouli dirt, they smell interesting and new again. Not your granny perfume, to be sure. If you want to replicate the feeling, if not the exact smell, you can layer 154 and Red Roses by Jo Malone.

Gentleman by Givenchy
If you’re genuinely macho and tough you need an appropriate scent. Brut (la, la, la, I can't hear you) was all very nice, but it’s no more (nitromusks be damned!). So this 1975 number will have them standing attention and saluting. Don't be fooled by the gentle name, this commands respect. With notes of sharp tarragon, cinnamon, bergamot, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, rose, carnation, civet and glorious Russian leather it has the poignant bite of Kurt Vonnegut’s novel and is as much a classic.

Santos by Cartier
Alberto Santos Dumont was a brazilian aviator as a comission to whom Cartier introduced the eponymous wristwatch, although Patek Philippe had already invented one. The ultra-masculine cologne followed, the name being a pillar in the luxury house’s substructure. Strong basil, verbena, rosemary and nutmeg open a vista to geranium, spice and wood. The musk sustains the aircraft at its highest. Perfumes inspired by aviation seem destined to capture my heart.

Bois du Portugal by Creed
Woody scents have their place in autumn more than any other season. Cedar and sandalwood combine their allied forces to render elegance to this really old composition from 1806 associated with Napoléon.  Lavender and bourbon vetiver provide the leitmotif.

L’instant homme by Guerlain
Sensuality is thy name. Citrus cooling rush of bergamot, smooth skin and anise-laced breath. Rosy shadows hint at the dark but its gentle warm patchouli and ambrette seeds that form the base. It retains a bittersweet toffee scent that makes one want to bite crisp flesh. Béatrice Piquet, the nose behind this, has come up with a masterpiece. Brava!

Intuition for men by Estée Lauder
There is nothing more pretentious than wanting to stand apart just for the sake of doing so. What’s wrong then with a completely likeable, pleasant mainstream perfume? I might as well include something easy to find and currently available. This ambery light oriental (surely superior to the women’s version) fits the bill and dresses the man who foots the bill.

Eau de monsieur by Annick Goutal
Another classic smell (citron, amber, sandal, musk, oakmoss) that gets bypassed in favour of more unusual stuff. Given the fact that Annick Goutal uses double (if not more) the budget for raw materials than most mainstream perfume companies and that they have discontinued this already (alas!), having a bottle in your stash isn’t a bad idea.

Sables by Annick Goutal
If you crave breakfast in bed and have Canadian affiliations, maple syrup pancakes and all, this will fit to a T. The immortelle note allied to cinnamon and vanilla however is forever reminiscent to me of a special beach in Lesvos Island in Greece. A volcanic place, all hot springs and absolutely no fish in the water, a deserted sugar-like sandy beach near a fossilized forest. The warmth of the sun warms the tree trunks lying in the background. A moment of eternity has just been mine and I can see the history of the earth in a long gaze. Naturally, it got discontinued….

Wild musk by Coty
Barber shops are wonderful places; the old traditional kind where they still put warm towels on the beard and a funny old guy is swinging murder weapons above your head while whistling tunes. Submit to the ritual and then spray some of the vintage cologne to finalise this rite of passage. The loveliest musk with overlays of violet and vanilla and don’t be deterred that it is marketed towards women. Nowadays best in the perfume oil version.

More to come for winter. The list is not by any means conclusive; interesting things pop up here and there, now and again. Feel free to add your recommendations.

The pic of Joaquin Phoenix is featured because it's sensual IMO and his birthday is in autumn (November). Originally uploaded on Perch. Pic of Eau de Monsieur ad from annickgoutal.nl

eight comments

I’m surprised and delighted that you included Intuition for men in your list. I received a bottle as a gift and had no problems using it up. As you say, nice, light and ambery.

And Dzing! Is it really going to be discontinued? I’d hate to be forced to buy back-ups when there is so many other bottles that beckon. But needs must when the Devil drives as they say.
Håkan Nellmar ( email) - 26 09 06

Nice choices, Ms. Helg…I might add Ambre Sultan to the list, Bel Ami,L’Air du Desert…

I feel horribly cheap and tawdry, but thank you ! for putting Joaquin in there…

I need a very cold shower after regarding his magnificently flawed, tortured eroticism… but resent admitting it out loud.

Sei mir gegrusst, Sei mir gekusst…
chayaruchama ( email) - 26 09 06

Håkan, thanks for your comment. Welcome!
I think many mainstream perfumes are bypassed in the interests of finding something unusual, when in fact they are completely lovely. I have recently become acquainted with Intuition for men and it has a comforting smell to me. Very pleasant, as I am sure you’ve found out using it.

As to Dzing, the official word from the U.S. president of L’Artisan, Francois Duquesne is that it is not getting discontinued just yet, but one has to err on the side of caution, hence my comment. I don’t see this one selling lots and this is a precarious position for most such scents, unfortunately.
perfumeshrine - 27 09 06

Dear chayaruchama,

thank you. I have not smelled Ambre Sultan on someone who does justice to the scent (alas!), that’s why I didn’t include it.
Bel Ami is great, I agree. Must revisit this one.
L’air du desert made an entry in my Chic post below and a seperate review http://perfumeshrine.fortunecity.com/blo...
It would be great on a man! Needs to be more widely known than it currently is.

“Flawed and tortured” sounds about right. Glad we agree. And a Schubert lieder, I think, to boot?
perfumeshrine - 27 09 06

Thought it was about time I paid you a visit. What a great list. Some old favourites, and some I’ve never tried…
Leopoldo - 28 09 06

Welcome! Don’t be a stranger.
I am glad the list was to your liking and hopefully it will give you some incentive to sniff new things.
perfumeshrine - 28 09 06

thanks a lot for the informations. I dont think that sables d annick goutal is discontinued . I find it easily in ATTIKA stores Panepistimioy road Athens Greece.
christos ( email) - 25 11 06

Hi there! Welcome.

No arguing with availability, but production from France has stopped. When those bottles are gone, there will be no more.
perfumeshrine - 25 11 06

An ego stroke

Writing this blog has been fun these past 3 months, even if the audience was limited. And then I came across a mention of my humble project on the Sunday 24th Washington Times!!  Imagine my surprise and amazement that I actually do have an audience!! And I never even bothered to check who was online till very recently...

(go to page2, the quote is this: "Here at the Questionable Odors Desk, we wish Mr. Burr's olfactory receptors luck from this point onward. 
Yet many of us are scent-obsessed. There are dozens of online blogs devoted to perfumania -- including Aromascope, Now Smell This, Scentzilla, Scentbloggers and Perfume Shrine. Each fragrance blogger does as Mr. Burr does: They all spritz; they dab; they inhale; they write. They also gossip, argue, speculate and extrapolate. Yes, indeed, the nose knows".)

If it weren't for Sillage bringing the link to my attention I might have missed it completely! In an witty article by J.Harper, elaborating on the intricacies of a perfume reviewing column and the recent such project of mr.Burr on the New York Times "Scent strip", I got a mention that flattered me, as I -newbie that I am and writing in a foreign language, to begin with- got great company by established, worthy perfume bloggers. Not having a Blogroll option, either, meant that any linking to me would not be reciprocal.

What can I say? I am honoured, although not so fast on polishing my laurel wreaths; continuous hard work is of essence, I believe.

Pic is of golden laurel wreath from Mycanae, Greece.

Info on Mycenae can be read here. and here . Pics can be seen here

six comments

Looks like people are reading your blog! Congratulations, you`re a great read.
Lynne Tyson ( email) - 25 09 06

Congrats, Helg. I meant to reply to your post on chic, but it was so long and involved, I had to move on – chicly, of course, since to admit otherwise would not be chic! LOL.

Keep up the great blogging.
Anya ( email) - 26 09 06

Lynne,
Looks like it, yes! So surprising after such a short time. I appreciate the encouragement, thanks.
perfumeshrine - 26 09 06

Hi Anya!
LOL, I did become tiresome, didn’t I? I must remember that brevity has its merits, I guess.
Thanks for the kind words.
perfumeshrine - 26 09 06

Oh my! That is wonderful news, E! Hope you don’t forget your less famous admirers, haha. Well-deserved too – I love the way you write about fragrance! It demands to be savoured, very much like fragrance itself!
Snarkattack - 09 10 06

It was a most pleasant surprise getting mentioned.
On the other hand how could I forget you, dear?
Thanks for your most kind words and support always.
perfumeshrine - 09 10 06

Fragrant news- a new Jo Malone: Blue agave and cacao

October will be the month of the official launch of Jo Malone's newest endeavor. The London-based firm of skincare and cologne fame has been bought by the Lauder group and Jo Malone herself resigned on February 2006, however the continuation of the line is guaranteed. The newest offering is named Blue Agave & Cacao and is appearing at Saks stores in the US as we speak. The UK boutiques of Jo Malone also stock it, per my info.

The name, in classic Malone tradition, relies on the two (three tops! in Lime,basil and mandarin's case) anchoring notes of the formula. In this case blue agave and cacao.

Agave is an indigenous Mexican plant (although now you can see it all over the world), a member of the Agavacae family and blue agave is the basis for the production of tequila. Agave has other connotations too. Meaning "illustrious", it is the name of a greek mythological queen, the daughter of Cadmus, the mythological founder of Thebes, a city best known for its infamous offspring Oedipus. Agave was also a Maenad (literally meaning "raving one"), a wild female follower of Dionysus indulging in violent acts of ecstatic frenzy.                                       Cacao is of course the popular name of Theobroma cacao, which interestingly enough means food of the gods. (theos means god and brosi is nutrition, food). I know you always knew there were divine properties in chocolate, I always thought so too!

With such references Blue agave & Cacao promises to be completely wild indeed.

The notes for the new perfume are: cardamom, agave, sea salt and chocolate. (well, cacao...) Early testimonies talk about the most un characteristic of the Malones to grace counters yet, contrary to the "light as in photon radiation" (per mr.Burr) reputation the line had till recently. Described as soft like cashmere and with powder-sugary cardamom notes, rich, sexy and edgy, for lack of a better word. The gourmand character is indeed a little foreign in the Jo Malone stable of scents, which are composed to be layered with one another in an effort of creating a unique personal scent, and although sweet it elicited comments describing it as sophisticated. It does sound interesting!

You can read some testimonials about it here and here.

Please note that in the first link there is a slight mistake: "agave" does not etymologically derive from the greek word for noble, which is eugenes (meaning "from good stock").

Pic courtesy of remo/flickr.

six comments

This does sound strangely tempting. I like one or two JM’s, but none of them really thrill me.
Leopoldo - 28 09 06

That’s what i thought too! And it seems a departure for the style of the line, which as you say has not been thrilling.

I do like Pomegranate Noir and was recently taken with 154, which I recommend to you. A very rich, nice woody scent. I suggested it for women on my feminine autumn list, but technically it’s men’s. It also layers terrifically well with Red Roses and Amber and Lavender from the same line.

Orange Blossom is also good, but then I do love orange blossom perfumes
perfumeshrine - 28 09 06

I agree, this sounds promising, and very unlike other Malones, which seem simplistic and lacking something…
chayaruchama ( email) - 29 09 06

Let’s hope it lives up to the promise.
The one I will review next did not, alas!
perfumeshrine - 29 09 06

Dear Helg-
I just sniffed this yesterday, and…it’s ok. That’s all, she wrote.
Kind of disappointed, but it will sell !

chayaruchama ( email) - 10 10 06

Hope springs eternal, I guess, and we all want to find new releases that are worth the sampling. Too bad if they are not. Thanks for letting me know and maybe I shouldn’t hurry so much to secure a sample.
perfumeshrine - 11 10 06

What make of car do *you* drive?

The latest Luca Turin article in NZZ Folio focused on this latest Guerlain offering. In a car analogy that is very entertaining, you can read how Insolence isn't the stuff of the devil after all, despite the cries of several pseudo-cultured perfume lovers who shot it down before even getting the chance to smell it. I had been itching to write about it for some time, so this gives me a good opportunity to bring it up.

Basically Turin parallels italian based coachbuilders for some famous cars with the houses/noses who create the perfumes. (very valid since both design a product). The Pininfarina family is the one famous for designing Ferrari and Maseratti. Other automobile builders mentioned are Carozzeria Touring, which has had a hand in Alpha Romeos and Fratelli Zagatto ( fratelli means brothers in italian). He does mention two specific models of cars at the end, two Ferarri models this one for Insolence and and that one for Chamade. Italian design for cars mentioned by someone of Italian extraction? I don't see this as weird.
He had made the connection between an Isotta Fraschini car and Cuir de Russie by Chanel waaaaaaaay back, if you remember.

On to perfume matters....The controversy regarding Insolence had a lot to do with the name, the face promoting it (Hillary Swank was not deemed Guerlain material, but hey, the girl has two Oscars! She's got something going on for her), the advertising focusing on body bling and dancing naked in the dark (the preview, which will be cinemato-theatre material can be seen here  courtesy of Vogue.co.uk), the colour of the juice. In fact, everything except the smell itself!

My personal opinion? I am partial to a Mini Cooper cabrio. (that's a joke; well, not entirely: I do love the Cooper cabrio!)

I said way back that we are quick to diss it and will soon crave it.
Same thing happened more or less with L'instant at time of launch. Many people dissed it when it first came out, commenting on how uncharacteristic of Guerlain it was, then lots of people went and bought it and enjoyed it immensely.

They are no fools at Guerlain, they know what they're doing and I don't think that issuing something not on a par with Mitsouko is a bad thing; not everything has to be on a par with it, anyway. (you know I love it, but you get my drift, n'est-ce pas?) The advertising is nowhere here not there, it's the juice that matters, for us perfume lovers, isn't it? Why be swayed by the ad? (which will attract a certain kind of customer who has some money to spend, so good job, I guess, heads of Guerlain advertising).

So..................

I have liked it. Yes, I have. This Opium and Mitsouko lover liked Insolence. I was sure I would when I read a poster with similar tastes say she found herself addicted to wearing it when she first got it despite herself and sure enough I find it a little addictive myself. It does not smell vulgar whatever the image might imply; it smells a little old-fashioned actually in the best possible sense. Myself I do not get the Aprés L'ondée connection so many have mentioned because of the violets featuring prominently in both. The latter is crisp, melancholy,  a cool customer, not sweet at all, a lovely fragile floral. This one is sweet and candied and makeup-powdery. More in L'heure bleue's stride and hooray for me who cannot wear L'heure bleue!  The candied violets can be intense and very sweet at first, then some glorious powdery base spins around and around like mrs.Swank dancing in a more modest attire than her birthday suit. Really, it's a lovably cuddly and "traditional" perfume in the best possible sense. Establishment, not avant-garde. But then, that's what Guerlain does best!

The perfume box that plays its own music, set to rythmic lights is surely something not very serious, it was after all part of the press release, just 200 boxes, but I doubt anyone of us is interested in that aspect. At least if you are reading this venue I hope you're not.

It also elicited an immediate response from SO, who is very eclectic in perfume (and really knows nothing about brand cachet, so I trust his judgement because I know it has to do with the smell per se). I am sure it would elicit compliments from others too, as people have been reporting it does. I am getting a bottle myself.

Contrary (if i understood correctly) to mr.Turin I think this one will be quite successful commercially, mark my words.

Pic of the music parfum box comes from Ebay auction.

six comments

Dear Helg-
Let us agree to disagree on this one…
While I appreciate what appears [to me ] to be a retro violet note, there are so many more satisfying ways for me to get my violet freak on, we can’t begin to list them here…

I agree heartily, it will sell, and sell well.

Years ago, a nice young man asked me to help him create a fragrance line, and I declined, for financial and family reasons.
When he produced his first efforts and asked my opinion,
I really didn’t care for them, but I cared about HIM, so I truthfully told him that they would sell like mad, and they have…
The line is known to most people as ‘Fresh’.

So, my friend, in the final analysis, it really doesn’t matter what I think.

Chacun a son gout !
[If I were with you, I’d sing this- one of my favorite pants roles…and I’d sing it in German, of course !]
chayaruchama ( email) - 05 10 06

this is the month of cars and perfume for me

I recently found this site

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/..

Duriez of Patou does a commercial for Lexus
karol - 06 10 06

Chayaruchama,
perfectly valid to disagree. Johann Strauss was on to something, bats and everything (technically the libretto writer, but don’t know name)!
I did like the retro character of this one and the powderiness, because those are elements lacking from recent releases, so it’s also a matter of avoiding the deja vu. That’s very important to me.
Fascinating what you say about Fresh, though! To tell you the truth….all right, I am not crazy about their scents either, but as you say they sell well.
perfumeshrine - 06 10 06

Karol,
indeed this is a month of cars. I had been meaning to do something with a certain car pic for a scent that goes well with it. Maybe it will be my next post.
Thanks for the link! Mr.Duriez for Lexus! Impressive… (in my best deepest Darth Vader voice)
perfumeshrine - 06 10 06

I drive an Audi A2 – perky, a bit wacky, but definitely sensible underneath all that. And S.O.L.I.D. Have no idea how to link it to a scent!

Insolence – I’m with Chaya, but then I seem to be agreeing with her everywhere in internetland…

Love to you Helg.
Leopoldo - 06 10 06

Audis are great cars! Good looking too, I find.
Sorry Insolence was not to your satisfaction; you have to give it that it is out of the normal fruity-floral category at least. At this point I had almost lost hope…
perfumeshrine - 07 10 06

Eating asphalt

The car analogy on my previous post and today’s pic had been lurking in my mind allied to a particular scent and what with mr.Duirez doing a commercial for Lexus (Duriez is nose in Patou house), brought to my attention by Karol, one of my readers, and everything, this is as good a time as any to bring it up. I had referred to this perfume as a Mercedes S-class its rubber tires eating asphalt in a metropolis setting in my Scent of a Man list a few days ago and the comparison now seems anachronistic somehow, but scripta manent, therefore I am to remain blameless.
Bvlgari (or Bulgari, whichever way you want to spell it) Black is the weird oriental for men (and women; it’s one of those euphemistically called “shared” frags) who want something modern, sleek, original, definitely not the spawn of any other department store fragrance. Yet it is easily accessible, which adds an intrinsic value to people who live in places far away from hip Barneys, Les Senteurs or Body&Soul stores, so the poor chaps might actually test the stuff before commiting the monthly allotment reserved for perfume.

In Black’s case sniffing might be in order if you are unfamiliar with the modern perfume niche market. However under no circumstances is it strange or unappealing to wear. Polarising as it might be, due to the perceived hot rubber tires accord, I find it soft and vanillic, which is perhaps sounding like an oxymoron next to the "supreme exponent of the metropolitan concept", as Bvlgari wants to call it.
Created by Annick Menardo, the talented Cannes-born nose behind Lolita Lempicka, Lolita au masculine, Kouros Body, Hypnotic Poison, Boss and a co-perpetrator for Hypnôse (well, I am no fan, sorry), it was a 1998 sensation even if it never reached the upper echelons sales-wise. Although Dzing! by L’artisan created by nez extraordinaire Olivia Giacobetti launched in 1999 and is quite close to Black, it segues into other avenues of weirdness and wondrousness, enough to make it stand apart.

The bottle is a very fetish-y matte rubbery surface like the rubber watchband from their supreme collection, encasing a glass bottle within that is crowned by a steel top with the Bvlgari Bvlgari logo of their eponymous collection that twists and sprays. There are ON and OFF positions on it, in an attempt to make it look like a gadget or a driving equipment. The idea is brilliant, however people have been reporting that the mechanism has been found a bit wanting, since it can have a tendency to jam or leak if you try too hard. They’d better ameliorate this aspect. The current version exists in 40 and 75ml bottles.

Upon spraying this on skin a warm citrus/bergamot note greets you, soon to be rounded and smoked by the black veil of lapsang souchong tea leaves notes. Tea scents have been something of a trademark for Bvlgari, because it was them that introduced the accord with their Bvlgari Femme perfume and the tradition persisted along in Eau parfumée au thé vert (green tea), then thé blanc (white tea) and finally thé rouge (red tea). Seems tea is coming out in all colours of the rainbow, after all, and pity me who had underestimated it through my teenager years as the drink to consume while sick. Little did I know then.
Along with tea a strange and wonderful resiny aroma rises up from heated skin like smoke signs by stressed executives in their offices to the object of their affection along the hall. Has life become so hectic that we communicate in new ways and with new signals after all? Does perfume hold a special place in this new language? I think it does.
Proof positive that pretty soon the warm hug of rich vanilla envelops the cool smokiness and the whole nests in a woody embrace created by the combination of sandalwood, cedar and amber. No single wood is discernible for what it is, because the mingling is seamless and vanilla and some musk seem to overpower the rest.

Although Bvlgari insist to list oakmoss as one of the ingredients I have never smelled it in this and I doubt that now with the new IFRA regulations it will be included anymore.

Anyway, the fact remains; do you have an object of affection across the hall? Are her or his antennae tuned in to perfume? Black might help you deliver that message you have been wanting to across.

Top pic is by Helmut Newton (Autoerotic collection) courtesy of Temple.edu. Black perfume and bath line ad from Parfum de Pub.